Timing Chain Master link
 

In the rush to put on the new chain (had a helper that likes to push things along) I did not notice that on the back of the master link where the pins come (factory installed) through the link the connections/heads look different.

One of them looks like the standard peen i.e. it has a mushroom head where the pin has been peened, obviously by machine as it is so nice and round... The other pin does not. it comes out just flush with the link plate, and appears to be solidly in place but it does not have the mushroom head. It appears to be factory that way and there is no sign of a head having split off during the abusive peening effort. But this makes me a little cautious hence I was wondering if anyone here has seen this and sees this as a problem or situation normal?

Thanks

While I'm not certain but that sounds like a defective part. The mercedes crimping tool itself does them two at a time. If the back isn't crimped at all I guess you'll have to do it.

There is no way to crimp it...
 

It is basically flush with the back plate of the chain. It will not move as I tried to pry it really hard once I discovered the difference.

it appears to be epoxied and slightly peened (like center punched so that the pin is bulged) into the back plate on the link.

Does that pushy helper have a digital camera he could loan you ?
It sounds like you need a new good master link to complete this chain installation...

I could use mine I guess....
 

Just been really cold here the last couple of days and the idea of going out and working on the car is not too exciting.

Figured I'd wait until it gets above 20 at least.

Every master link I've ever installed was peened just like every other link on the chain - and if you use the factory approved tool to peen the open end of the master link you will not be able to tell which link was the master link. The factory tool makes a peen mark that is identical to the factory peened links.

Something sounds strange here - I agree a picture would be worth the effort.

Tim

Figures...
 

Oh well. I guess it is a new master link for me.

I was sure hoping someone would say "oh yeah, mine was like that and I've run it for 100K miles!".

Just my luck.

Speaking of the tool for peening. Anyone know where a guy can pick one up or borrow one?

Get a ball peen hammer and peen the ends of the link pins after the plate is properly positioned. The hard part will be pressing the pin in place. Hold the back of the link (while peening) with a large hammer.

I have a tool made up on a Vise Grip locking pliers frame that I use to peen saw chain rivets. I wonder it that would work on an MB timing chain??

P E H

What I did to press the new pin into place was take the old pin plate and open the holes up a little bit to use it as my device to pry the new on and use some channel locks to press it into place. It worked very well.

Good tip Jeff.
I have the chain crimp tool and use it to press the new plate on.

Interesting
 

My new plates slipped right onto the link. I then used a 20 inch long backhoe bucket pin to back the link and peened over the pins on the open side.
With the knocks that I had to make to peen the pins the one pin that does not look peened on the backside would have moved a little if it had been loose but it did not.

is there a place to get this mercedes peening tool or do you think you can make one up with a pair of vise grips or as an attachment to a c-clamp maybe that will suffice?

Peter, I'd be interested in knowing the design you used to make your tool.

Those pins are really hard as I had to use a lot more force than I would have liked peening them. If I replace the link again I don't really want to be hammering on it again if there is a better way that puts less stress on things during the process.

Re: Interesting
 

sorta spendy but here it is at 189 bucks

http://www.zdmak.com/mbsirs-138.jpg

Always use goggles when using a hammer
 

Fisherman, You are making way too big a deal out of the pin peening...
The pins ARE hard.... that is the GOOD news...
There is almost NO side pressure on a double roller chain.. NONE... that is also GOOD news
So , when you get your plate pressed on the pins.......
Use a bucking device ( read two pound hammer top or the likes) and place it against the back of the pin/plate.
Then take a normal size hammer and a sharpened punch.. like a center marking punch for drilling...
And put three equidistant pings into the end of that pin...
If you want to go around it again.
You will not be putting an pressure on the sprocket if you have it right... push the pin and chain forward with pressure from the (bucking plate or anvil ) back hammer head..... then tap with a nice crisp hit... ie, more head speed than power...
Now... on to some real problems....

( Engatwork said this in an above post... BELIEVE HIM !)