Okay, I admit it, I need some help here!

I took out the blown engine from the 82' 240D automatic. I took out the good, running engine from a 78 240D standard shift. Swapped waterpump housing, intake/exhaust manifolds, thermostat housing, linkage for throttle, etc.

We also swapped injector pumps and thus the reason for the post.

I put the crank at 26 BTDC on the new engine (why does everything I read say 24 OR 26 BTDC?). I lined up the spline gap with the mark on the injector pump (from the 82) and put it together out of the car. Put the engine in.... lined up transmission and tried to crank. Nothing but a starter turning over a motor..... Bled the fuel line at the filter housing per the Hayes Manual, pulled the first fuel injector line and pulled spring and valve, etc.

What the heck are we doing wrong? At first when we pulled the first line, it didn't have any fuel in it so that's what prompted the pulling of valve & spring.... then set throttle to wide open, cranked engine til it sputtered fuel out the open injector pump orifice. I'm at wits end. Don't know what else to do but pull engine back out and re-line up all of the lines/marks/camshaft... oh yeah, in Hayes manual, it says to turn engine over manually to the 24 or 26 BTDC mark as you progress in doing the start of delivery steps. It also says to take off the oil cap and see that the two cam lobes are facing up when at 24 or 26 BTDC.... the old 78 appears to be one up one down when i try that... could my crankshaft balancer not be correct? It was running when we pulled it into the garage...

Stumped in Florida,

JMH

The start of delivery steps MUST be done anytime the IP is installed or moved. The tool is only $22 and takes only a few minutes to complete, why risk blowing out a prechamber, blowing the head gasket, or melting a piston? I read somewhere that some IP's had incorrect markings on the shaft. You might want to check into that also.

Also, why swap the IP from the blown engine to the good one? What did the old engine die from (It could have been IP related)?

Edit: I don't have a 240D, but wasn't there a different HP rating between the 70's and 80's model OM616's? If so, the IP will be calibrated differently between the two models.

We swapped out injector pumps because the bad engine had a thrown rod and the crankshaft was scored pretty badly on #1 cylinder making a rebuild a much more difficult if not impossible job (we've not pulled to check the crank journals but it got pretty hot, it blew a hole in the oil pan).

The bad engine was in a vehicle using an automatic transmission and the donor engine was a stickshift....... so the vacuum link to the tranny was not on the donor pump, etc.

I am starting to think that when we installed the pump, I might have accidentally turned the pump collar and thus the pump as I tried to get it synched with the timing mechanism teeth in the block. If this happened, I probably threw out the timing right there.... this is the first time I have ever done this so I am trying to be very cautious but I'm finding that it is easy to make mistakes without realizing it.

Question 1: the Haynes and the CD ROM call for the timing to be set at "24 or 26 degrees BTDC"...... but I don't know how to tell which is the case with this particular engine... anyone know the answer to that?

Question 2: the car receiving the engine was mfg'd. in Dec. of 1982 so I am suspecting that the timing marks might be part of that group in 82 where the timing marks stamped in the pump were off slightly..... how do I tell if that is the case with this pump?

Question 3: it sounds like the "start of delivery" technique is a further fine tuning of the injector pump after installation using the timing marks.... is that correct? As finely machined as the injector pump camshaft, and internal parts/workings are, it seems that it would all be precise and would need no fine tuning, but I am asking as I just dont know and I don't recall reading anything in all the material I have assembled that states why you must do that....... I loosened the injector line at the injector itself and it was dripping out of there as I turned the engine over with the starter....... would that not accomplish the same thing, i.e. start of delivery? It seems that it would, you're just using a longer tube and have to turn the engine over more revolutions to get it all the way up the line........

I'm not freaking out yet, but sure need some direction from you diesel doctors out there that know this process forward and backwards!

Thanks in advance,
JMH

question 2 - look at the plate that the "mark" is scribed in on the front of the injection pump. If the mark is kinda in the center of the closest fastener (which should be about in the 10-11 o'clock position) then you line the splines up. If the mark is NOT kinda lined up with the fastener then you have to set the teeth off about 3-4 teeth (I would have to look at the manual to give you the exact # of teeth to set it off). Sorry, this is kinda hard to explain without a pic. It is in the 617 engine manual pretty clearly though.

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Jim

Why do most people say they turn an engine OVER. You can turn a pancake over. I turn my engine when I have it on an engine stand ans am working on the lower part of the engine. If you turned your car over, wouldn't it be sitting on the roof?

Why not just say I turned ( rotated would be a better word ) the engine or cranked it with the starter.

Then there would be no doubt what you are talking about.

Just for more clarity.

P E H

Here is a link with the picture you need. Look on Page 6

http://skinnerbox.steaky.org/123_DISK2/program/Engine/617/07_1-200.pdf

First, you probably put the pump in on the exhaust storke, not the compression stroke (pump goes around once for every two crank revolutions, just like the cam). Both cam lobes must be pointing up (both valves closed) at 24 BTDC.

Second, the reason the books say 24 or 26 is that some engines are 24, some are 26, and the instructions are for all of them. Look up the correct value for start of injection for your engine (probably 24 since it's a 240).

Third, you have to purge the air out of the pump after you take the fuel system apart or no fuel will get injected. You now have the #1 hole purged, but you're going to get air in there again when you take the pump back off and rotate the engine around again.

A hint for getting on the compression stroke is to pull the #1 glow plug -- when air starts puffing out of the glowplug hole as you rotate the engine, you are on the compression stroke. Set to 24 BTDC and re-install the pump.

At that point, you must have a drip tube or something similar -- with the hand pump keeping pressure in the fuel system, rotate engine (two times round) and watch the fuel flowing out of the #1 "hole" -- it must abruptly stop just as you reach 24 degrees -- one drop per second or less. Rotate the pump to correct -- toward the fender makes it stop later, toward the engine makes it stop sooner. If you run out of adjustment on the pump bolts, pull the pump back off and move the splined flange a couple splines in the correct direction and try again.

When you get the start of injection right, pump the hand pump until no more air comes out of the IP, then fit injection lines (make sure you put the delivery valve back in #1), then crank with the cap nuts on the injectors cracked (not loose) until no more air bubbles come out. THEN tighten the cap nuts, run the glow plugs, and attempt to start. YOu may need to charge the battery once to get it going.
Peter

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1972 220D ?? miles
1988 300E 200,012
1987 300D Turbo killed 9/25/07, 275,000 miles
1985 Volvo 740 GLE Turobodiesel 218,000
1972 280 SE 4.5 165, 000 - It runs!