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Advice on `87 300TD Purchase?
I am considering the purchase of an `87 300TD and have a few specimens in my sights. Just began researching here in the last few months and have learned quite a bit from all of you, thanks. I was wondering if anyone here could share with me some advice on this particular model that might help stear me towards the right car and away from the wrong car.
I understand some of the things to look out for are; - trap oxidizer replacement - transmission work - head replacement - rear suspension Much appreciation in advance for any other advice.
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300TD W124, Two VW TDI Passat Wagons,Cummins Ram 250, Kubota Tractor 23 cylinders sipping the sweet sauce of the soy bean Last edited by soypwrd; 03-04-2004 at 09:16 PM. |
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Bump
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You've pretty much got it. Besides the usual rust/interior wear concerns, just driving a car will give you a good feel for it. The more you can drive the better. Virtually all the cars now have the trap replacement but if you find one with the old coffee can sized trap it doesn't speak well for the maintenance because that was a replacement item from ten years ago (note that the retrofit on the 1985 cars looks like the old trap, on the '87 it's different). As you probably know, it's the tendancy of the head to crack that is usually the biggest worry. If the car has ever been overheated there is a good probability of a head problem. Your potential car should not run hot and the hoses should be soft on a cold engine. If the owner has records to back up regular maintenance that is obviously a big plus. Check that the climate control unit works properly, these can be expensive to fix (but not always, depending upon the fault). The A/C compressor is also a frequent failure item and it too is expensive. Don't believe a claim that it just needs charging and if it was recently serviced find out if it was done by someone who knows what they are doing. The rear suspension is only an issue on the wagons but they are pretty trouble free. If you're looking at a wagon then check the resevoir for the proper amount of fluid. The fluid should not be dark either, it should be honey colored at worst. If in doubt pay someone to do a good PPI. It's usually worth the money. Good luck.
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LRG 1987 300D Turbo 175K 2006 Toyota Prius, efficent but no soul 1985 300 TDT(130K miles of trouble free motoring)now sold |
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Rust, Rust, Rust, oh and Rust.
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ASE Master Mechanic https://whunter.carrd.co/ Prototype R&D/testing: Thermal & Aerodynamic System Engineering (TASE) Senior vehicle instrumentation technician. Noise Vibration and Harshness (NVH). Dynamometer. Heat exchanger durability. HV-A/C Climate Control. Vehicle build. Fleet Durability Technical Quality Auditor. Automotive Technical Writer 1985 300SD 1983 300D 2003 Volvo V70 https://www.boldegoist.com/ |
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