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  #1  
Old 01-06-2004, 10:51 AM
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Join Date: Dec 2003
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noisey valve train

Thanks for the tips guys, I hope it is a lifter which I will look at today. One other thing before I pull wrenchs. The glow plug panel light is not on during preheat but the glow plugs get power. After startup the panel light stays on and no power goes the glow plugs? Could this be connected to my valve noise? Also if I need to pull the cam to replace a lifter I will take it to the DEALER!!!!!!!!! Help...

300 sd
350 sdl with noise
Unimog DoKa
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  #2  
Old 01-06-2004, 12:08 PM
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Location: Evansville, Indiana
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You have a bad glow plug or two. Test and replace, or replace the set. The light coming on after start is a diagnostic circuit, telling you that at least one is out.

Note that a bad belt tensioner shock sounds just like a bad valve slapping at idle -- apply pressure to the shock and see if the noise stops before getting excited about bad lifters.

Peter
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  #3  
Old 01-06-2004, 12:20 PM
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noisey valves

Thanks Peter,

The belt tensioner was replaced two years ago and the sound was from the front and differient. Thanks for the info on the glow plugs. I guess I need to take them out and bench test them? Would I be able to feel the heat at the connection while installed? The head and injection pump were replaced by the last owner about 50,000 miles ago with new from a dealer. I expected both to be undated without the previous problems. I love this chassie and would not know what to replace them with.


Thanks again,

Jim Maddox
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Old 01-06-2004, 12:44 PM
HGV HGV is offline
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One easy and dumb way to locate the bad glow plug is to remove all the injectors, then turn off all the lights in the garage and turn the key. Look down the injector port and see which one does not glow red. It is very apparent and is easier than trying to remove a stuck glow plug. If you are going to change out lifters, I would suggest you change all of them at the same time. Be careful when you remove the cam shaft bearing bolts. They need to be removed in a specific sequence or you can damage the cam shaft. The MBZ manual shows the wrong sequence. At least in mine.

Henry
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  #5  
Old 01-06-2004, 05:32 PM
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Location: Evansville, Indiana
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Unplug the connector from the GP relay to the plugs and check the resistance between the connectors inside and ground. Must be 0.6 to 0.8 phm -- either higher or lower is a bad plug. Most likely infinite (broken filament) or grounded (0 ohms).

Replace bad ones, or just replace the whole set and don't worry about which one is bad.

This engine is known for flat "lifters" -- make sure the o-rings on the center shaft of the oil filter holder are good, since they will allow the oil to drain out of the lifter gallery if not (down at the bottom, probably look and feel like plastic by now).

Peter
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1972 220D ?? miles
1988 300E 200,012
1987 300D Turbo killed 9/25/07, 275,000 miles
1985 Volvo 740 GLE Turobodiesel 218,000
1972 280 SE 4.5 165, 000 - It runs!
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  #6  
Old 01-06-2004, 07:30 PM
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Join Date: Dec 2003
Posts: 9
Noisy valves

Thanks again for the input,

The "Backfire" in the intake just maybe a vacuum foor slaming shut a few seconds after startup. From the driver seat it seams to be from the right side of the engine. A friend with good hearing, like normal as I am not, said it came from under the glove box and sounded like a door slaming slut!, I mean shut.
I took it to a local Mercedes shop, not a dealer, who has been in business since before 1979. He or I could not hear the noise from the valve train. He said the vacuum pump can make the noise as I described and if it goes so does my engine. Anybody have a late model 300D, dark color with a tan leather interior which they want to sell? Or does anyone want a good looking 56 year old wife whom will not drive a car that may not get her home? Iwonder which one would cost less????

You all do good work supporting the cars we love. Thanks to you all.

Jim Maddox, Wilm., DE

300sd
350 sdl at the shop
Unimog diesel doKa
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