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  #1  
Old 01-07-2004, 06:28 PM
1983 300TD's Avatar
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Location: Northern Michigan
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Delayed blower motor...and it's freezing!

Hi.
I just joined the fourm, and would like to thank everyone for all the helpful suggestions.

I have a 1983 300td wagon. When I leave the house in the morning, it takes 5-8 minutes for the blower motor to kick in. It doesn't matter if the fan is on high or low, and it doesn't matter if the acc is set on defrost, floor, etc. No matter which buttons I push, I get no response. Then just when I question if it's going to work at all, everything starts to work as it should. I should note that this scenario plays out most of the time, but not all the time. I have not been blowing the fuse, and I replaced the blower motor when I bought the car, two years ago. I also replaced the monovalve one month ago, as well as that foam line that runs behind the glove box. Any suggestions? Could it have anything to do with the aux. water pump?
Thanks for your time.
damon

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  #2  
Old 01-07-2004, 06:58 PM
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Location: PA
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300TD,

Your system is working correctly. There is a thermal switch that doesn't allow the blower motor to come on until the switch detects warm water going into the heater core.

No sense blowing cold air.

P E H
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  #3  
Old 01-07-2004, 06:58 PM
firstdiesel's Avatar
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Location: South Florida
Posts: 247
Well, where do we start? I have an '80 300TD which I have basically replaced every part of the ACC system. These two cars are very different though. If I were a wagerin' man I would guess that your problem is vacuum. You are producing vac, but it is taking time to build up enough vauum to close the switch that turns on the blower. Do all your door locks work....all the time?

This is topic that is difficult to attack online. You may want to run a vacuum check on all systems (I think there is 6 or 7). A hand vac pump and manual will do the trick.

Sounds like vacuum to me or a diaphram in one of the many vacuum operated switches located behind the push buttons in the center console. Good luck, but at least you came the right place. These guys know their stuff!
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  #4  
Old 01-07-2004, 08:09 PM
ForcedInduction
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Vacuum has nothing to do with the blower motor running. If I set mine on high with the engine off and ZERO vacuum in any of the systems it will blow air from whatever vents were open last. It might be the blower speed controller. I think it's the grey silver cage with coils in it on the passenger front quarter panel.
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  #5  
Old 01-07-2004, 09:24 PM
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Join Date: Nov 2003
Location: western pa
Posts: 54
Thermal switch

PEH is correct, mine works the same way. I think they are set to turn on the blower at about 120 degrees of engine temp. My 85 Cadillac works the same.
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  #6  
Old 01-07-2004, 09:31 PM
ForcedInduction
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Then why does mine work? It will turn on at all speeds at any temp.
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  #7  
Old 01-07-2004, 10:10 PM
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82-300DT,

Simple, yours is broken. Maybe your thermal switch is shorted or someone "hotwired " it.

P E H
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  #8  
Old 01-07-2004, 10:10 PM
300SDog's Avatar
gimme a low-tech 240D
 
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Location: central ky
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Quote:
Originally posted by 82-300td
Then why does mine work? It will turn on at all speeds at any temp.
Psssst - hey maybe the idiot sensor is broken or frozen in your car..... thank your lucky stars!!!
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  #9  
Old 01-07-2004, 11:16 PM
ForcedInduction
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That's good. Saves me from having to do it
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  #10  
Old 01-07-2004, 11:25 PM
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Mine started acting up again today and I need to get to the bottom of this one quick. Is the controller on the passenger side fender the source which actually sends the electricity to the blower motor? Any good way to test it?
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Mercedes W123 DIY pages are now located here.
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  #11  
Old 01-07-2004, 11:31 PM
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Join Date: Apr 2002
Location: Crystal Beach FL
Posts: 90
Have you checked to make sure your fuse contact points are clean? I have had the same problem as of late. I can wait it out(from 1-5 minutes) or pull off fuse cover and spin the fuse around a little to make a better contact. I can't really see any corrosion, but it looks more like 'tarnish/oxidation' ? I am going to try and find some fuses with brass(copper?) tips, which I hope will eliminate this problem. P.S. I also had this problem with 1 headlight, it was the same problem with the fuses(of course not the same fuse, but same symptoms)spun it a little, it made contact and I was set. I live 1 1/2 blocks from salt water; don't know if this makes the problem even worse (aluminim oxidizing?) or not, I'm sure it is probably a contributing factor. Take a look, can't hurt. Good luck. Does anybody know of a lube/grease I could apply to prevent this tarnish/oxidation? mattc
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  #12  
Old 01-07-2004, 11:34 PM
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Join Date: Dec 2001
Location: Central IL
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mattc -- I think I'm having the same fuse contact problem you did. My headlights are acting goofy now, too. I'm going to try filing all the contacts and replacing all the fuses, then applying a little bit of dielectric grease ("Bulb Grease" as Autozone calls it, I think).

Chris
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  #13  
Old 01-07-2004, 11:37 PM
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Dielectric grease (or silicone grease) is used to stop oxidation on electrical connections. I just had a bulb do that so I redid both front turn signals with it so they should all work fine now. I got my fuses off of ebay there were enough to do two cars for about $7. I still used dielectric grease on them even though they are copper.

My problem is set off by running over earth creters in the wonderful roads here....

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Mercedes W123 DIY pages are now located here.
1983 / 1984 300D Sold
2000 CLK430 Cabriolet ~58k Sold
2005 Avalanche 4x4 ~66k
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