1. Fuel device in the tank. I removed that to try and resolder all bad connections. Only problem is that i couldn't get it open and the top portion (where the connector plugs into) shows several cracks. My plans are: (A) Fix it and use it as is. (B) Find one from a pick-a-part and hope its in better condition or use it as practice (are all of these the same? I'm thinking about pulling one from a 190E, not D, E) or (C) Just get a new one from the dealership and cost me an arm and a leg?

2. I've gone ahead and disconnected all of the emissions control stuff. What do I do about the opening on the EGR valve and the by-pass valve that's slightly underneath it? Should I cover it up, or just leave it as is?


Thanks ahead of time. I'm in a rush at the moment.

For # 2, I think you should cap the vacuum connections.

Ken300D

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1982 300D at 351K miles
1984 300SD at 217K miles
1987 300D at 370K miles

As for your first question, try FastLane. They have sending units for these cars, and at a few bucks under $100 I think you are better off with a new one. If you get a used one, you may not cure the problem. Some of these problems are age related, and others are likely related to the condition of the fuel. A heap in the junkyard is more likely to have moisture and other contaminants present than a functioning car. So I would probably not harvest one from just any old junkyard car (of the same make and chassis which makes it a kind of "rare" inhabitant of a junk yard) unless I thought taking the unit out and replacing it was fun. Good luck, Jim

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Own:
1986 Euro 190E 2.3-16 (291,000 miles),
1998 E300D TurboDiesel, 231,000 miles -purchased with 45,000,
1988 300E 5-speed 252,000 miles,
1983 240D 4-speed, purchased w/136,000, now with 222,000 miles.
2009 ML320CDI Bluetec, 89,000 miles

Owned:
1971 220D (250,000 miles plus, sold to father-in-law),
1975 240D (245,000 miles - died of body rot),
1991 350SD (176,560 miles, weakest Benz I have owned),
1999 C230 Sport (45,400 miles),
1982 240D (321,000 miles, put to sleep)

If you're unsure about how something comes apart, the junkyard car can provide good "practice". For instance, after a half hour or so of practicing on a junkyard car's center wood stip, I decided the wood in my car was good enough. Glad I was playing with their car and not mine.

Having said that, I'm with Jim. Buy a new sending unit from Fastlane.

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Rick Miley
2014 Tesla Model S
2018 Tesla Model 3
2017 Nissan LEAF
Former MB: 99 E300, 86 190E 2.3, 87 300E, 80 240D, 82 204D Euro
Chain Elongation References

NOt sure what you are trying to fix in the fuel sending unit. It is very easy to open and you should not have a problem. I assume you have been able to remove it from the tank. I used a big pair of channel locks and I was able to unsrew it. Make sure you have a plastic tub or other device handy so you don't spill any fuel in the car.
Look on the bottom of the aluminum tube. There is a little nut encased in a plastic cup. Using needle nose pliers, get a good hold and unscrew the nut. WHen it is loose, use your fingers and remove the nut, aluminum cap and plastic washer and carefully remove the tube. It has two very delicate resistance wires that the float runs on. If they are broken, it is best to get a new/used one that is not broken. I have not had succes soldering them back in place. NOt much to solder anyway. Could be you have gunk buildup and it is gumming up the works. Just be careful and do not break the wires like I did.

Good luck.
Henry

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63 190d (sold)
69 220D (sold)
69 280SL (sold)
76 BMW 2002 (sold)
86 190E-16v (Demised at Laguna Seca Turn 9)
87 300SDL (sold)
87 300SDL 135k
87 300TD 280k (sold)
95 E320W 211k
95 E320w 111k
05 C320 4matic
06 E320 CDI 90k (Totaled by a texting 19 year old girl in a nissan)
2013 GLK 250 Bluetek 4MATIC

Alright thanks everyone, I'll pick up a few from the junkyard for practice. I'm not sure if mine is broken or not (dad did shake it to try and get the excess fuel out). As for mine, the bottom doesn't have any nuts, instead its just a big black plastic cap with a bit of a screw revealed on the center of it. I guess I'll just proceed with getting a new one within a week.

As for the EGR valve, I've got that solved.

Well i'm back from the junkyard, I got 2 fuel sender units, both from 190E's and they were in great shape and only cost $1. The question is, the bottom is different. It seems to be locked in place instead of with a screw in the center. Will these still work for the 300D? In the mean time, i'll just clean them up a bit more.

Yes they will work and the connection should be the same...some are not accessable because they cost less to manufacture....I wouldn't waste 100 on a new unit...let us know how things go...Jim

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James A. Harris

well.. it still flickers, I tried both of them. I now suspect the plug on the top, since that goes in very loosely. As for the fuel sender itself, the 2 i got look VERY clean and are manufactured by VDO, whereas mine is probably a OEM one. I'll troubleshoot it tomorrow and let you guys know what happens afterwards