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  #1  
Old 01-12-2004, 05:13 PM
HGV HGV is offline
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Engine swap on 87 300TD, With or w/o tranny?

I am planning on swapping the engine in my 87 300TD with one with lower millage and better performance. Mine burns oil, has lack of power and is tired.

Need some advice. The MBZ manual presented removal of the engine with tranny as one unit. Taking a look at the engine, bell housing bolts are not very accesible.

Anyone have experiance in pulling the engine without the tranny? How difficult and any suggestions?

Henry
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  #2  
Old 01-12-2004, 08:56 PM
ForcedInduction
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I think it would be faster to take the engine/tranny out as one unit. The tranny bolts would be a true PITA to get them all. Swap the transmission outside of the body and put them back in as one unit.
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  #3  
Old 01-13-2004, 12:17 PM
HGV HGV is offline
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I was thinking of removing the motor mounts and tranny mount then lower the engine allowing better access to the bell housing bolts.

ANy additional suggestions would be helpful.

Henry
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63 190d (sold)
69 220D (sold)
69 280SL (sold)
76 BMW 2002 (sold)
86 190E-16v(best 4 banger around) 195k
87 300SDL (sold)
87 300SDL 135k
87 300TD 280k (sold)
95 E320W 211k
95 E320w 111k
05 C320 4matic
06 E320 CDI 90k (Totaled by a texting 19 year old girl in a nissan)
2013 GLK 250 Bluetek 4MATIC
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  #4  
Old 01-13-2004, 02:36 PM
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If you're swapping both, I'd pull them in & out together. Also while things are out of the car, replace ALL external transmission seals, and I'd replace the engine oil pan gasket too. These jobs are nightmares with the powertrain installed but pretty simple when the parts are on the floor in front of you. You'll need a cherry picker than goes way high, or a block & tackle setup, as the engine & tranny has to go rather high up to clear everything on the way out (don't forget the car will rise up as weight is removed).

Whatcha doin' with the old engine, btw?

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  #5  
Old 01-13-2004, 04:00 PM
HGV HGV is offline
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The tranny was rebult about 80k ago and it does not leak a drop. Will leave it allone. Might consider changing out the real crank seal while it is out. The question I have is which is easier, pulling them out as a pair, or fight the bell housing bolts and just pull the engine? Might spend an hour trying to get the bell housing bolts first, and if it proves to difficult, pull it out as a pair.

Not sure what i will do with the old engine. The engine I am putting in reportadly has 164k miles. can't tell how it will run but it is complete except for the starter and fan.

the engine I am taking runs and is in my daily driver. It is tired. I did a complete head job 40K ago and replaced guides lifters and exhaust valves. Had the head pressure checked and decked the bare minumum and had the exhaust manifolds resurfaced . I might keep it for a spare and take it apart and see what needs to be done. I assume at a minimum it needs a ring job. The IP needs to be rebuilt.

If the replacement engine runs well and does not burn significant oil. I might part it out or sell it complete.
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63 190d (sold)
69 220D (sold)
69 280SL (sold)
76 BMW 2002 (sold)
86 190E-16v(best 4 banger around) 195k
87 300SDL (sold)
87 300SDL 135k
87 300TD 280k (sold)
95 E320W 211k
95 E320w 111k
05 C320 4matic
06 E320 CDI 90k (Totaled by a texting 19 year old girl in a nissan)
2013 GLK 250 Bluetek 4MATIC
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  #6  
Old 01-13-2004, 08:07 PM
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I would pull em both together unless it is a 240D.
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  #7  
Old 01-14-2004, 10:27 AM
Old Deis
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Before you start in on that rear crank seal, better read up on the procedures. It will require you to split the engine case and pull the crankshaft. When you do that you should replace the stretch bolts on that assembly.
Will take about 12 hrs with the engine out, and those bolts will cost a hundred bucks. The rear seal costs only about fifteen. It is held in place with pins on both the top and bottom of the engine case, so you can't just slide them in and out.
If it needs to be done, do it now. But that is a big job to do just to make sure of things.
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  #8  
Old 01-14-2004, 11:25 AM
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Take them out together, it's much faster and much less hassle.

Drain the tranny, or you will pour all the oil out the speedo cable hole, big bummer.

Lift engine/tranny while tilting up to 45 degrees to clear the radiator support, then raise tranny while pushing the car back.

Use a substantial hoist, this isn't a light setup!

Getting the bell housing top bolts back in is a nightmare with the engine in the car, may in fact not be possible on the W124.

Rear main is a ring seal on the 603, not the rope seal on the 617, so it's easy to replace.

Mark flywheel and hub if there are no marks, and use new bolts for re-installation, they are stretch bolts and you don't want to re-use them. I'd mark the flex plate as well.

Peter
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  #9  
Old 01-14-2004, 02:44 PM
HGV HGV is offline
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psfred, you have a PM

Henry
__________________
63 190d (sold)
69 220D (sold)
69 280SL (sold)
76 BMW 2002 (sold)
86 190E-16v(best 4 banger around) 195k
87 300SDL (sold)
87 300SDL 135k
87 300TD 280k (sold)
95 E320W 211k
95 E320w 111k
05 C320 4matic
06 E320 CDI 90k (Totaled by a texting 19 year old girl in a nissan)
2013 GLK 250 Bluetek 4MATIC
Reply With Quote
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