How to know if the clicking sound is from the axles, there is no leak of oil or torn boots etc. The clicking happens when driving uphill or slightly when turning. Could this be something else. If it is the axle, how to know which side.. the clicking comming from the close to the center or so, also is there a special tools for the axle replacement...the car is 1987 300D (124 style), @175k.
I appreciate your help.
thanks

Watched mechanic diagnose bad axle on ebay disaster car i'd bought awhile ago..... He jacked up both rear wheels then pushed each against the differential. Excessive end play was obvious.

dieseldiehard,


The axle for a W115 and W123 is the *same* axle except the bolt size. As for reliablity- most the c-clip failures unlike GM stuff, is due to a poor replacement where the c-clip was damaged.

GM stuff, the axle sideloads are carried by the diff. On a mercedes, the outer wheel brg assy takes the load. Diff c-clip doesn't see the load.

For W124's being safer... ahhhh. Yes, the W124 axle bolts to a flange that in the diff. But, look what holds that flange into the diff- the same c-clip. It's the *same* design.

Homokinetic and Angular style axles will fit all W123's and W115's. I've done it!

For finding which side. The axle should have zero rotational play. If I was there- I could tell you by driving. I could also tell you if brought me the axles.

Michael

__________________
Michael McGuire
83 300d
01 vw A4 TDI
66 Chevy Corsa
68 GMC V6 w/oD
86 300E

I will try to drive at both directions and see if I can identify the bad side. Another question: can the inner CV joint be changed without the outer, if only the inner failing?
thanks

Agreed=)

New axles last *much* longer. Rebuilders extrude hone the races which removes some of the heat-treated metal and install over size balls. Only GKN/Lobros seem to do some sort of re-heat treatment process.
The hardness of the metal is directly related to the depth in case-hardening( I believe they are nitrated). So, at the surface it's Rc=85, at 0.010" it's 60-65min, and at 0.020" it's Rc=50. Failure of the bearing is not at the surface in fatigue. It's a shear stress failure, assuming the surface material doesn't yield. Anyway, it's easy to see how going from 85 to 50 on the rockwell hardness scale would effect live.
Never got lucky enough to R&R a car with the later style joints.

Michael

__________________
Michael McGuire
83 300d
01 vw A4 TDI
66 Chevy Corsa
68 GMC V6 w/oD
86 300E

To be sure, you mean unbolt only the axle at the differential and the axle retaining bolt at the wheel - without taking out the brake caliber or any other suspension related items - what do you mean by the wheel swing without extra unbolting of suspension items?? please clarify more..
Also, should I take out both axles, in order to test them? or there is a better way to pin point which axle is defective without taking them both...last, when you refer to new axles you mean such as the ones availble at fastlane ($460) NOT the rebuilt ones that can be obtained from other generic autoparts stores...how long the rebuilt will last?
thanks for all of you,

I've got you!

He means the later style axles are like VW/Porshe/ axles where you don't have to take the differential housing off. If you have the new style-bravo. If not, take the cover off the diff. Not a huge deal. I've done it in a hair over 2hrs for both axles-most get it done in under 6hrs.

No you should not have to remove calipers or suspension components. Just the bolt in the wheel hub and a c-clip in the differential holding the axle in place.

Life of axles is hard to say exactly. I've seen 30-60,000 miles to rebuilt axles. Of course, they are warrentee'd forever- so you can replace them.

I understand completely being on a limited budget and dumping $800 into a $1000 car.
When I did my last axle, the "list" was pushing Rusty's $250 rebuilt axles, plus I had to pay shipping two ways- yea the core thing. I got a new one for $273, no core and free shipping.

Prices have changed with USD=Euro at a low.

What style do you currently have? You must ask yourself how long am I going to drive this car? What are my finances etc... to make a good decision.
Some people have had great luck with used axles.....

Michael

__________________
Michael McGuire
83 300d
01 vw A4 TDI
66 Chevy Corsa
68 GMC V6 w/oD
86 300E

Thanks for the info, one more thing:
I assume that my car has the updated (bolted on diff.) kind of axles...If you check fastlane there is an inner set of C.V. joint available as replacement for $80 or so (which is not available for older axle design)....DOES this mean that I can replace it myself if the inner joint proven to be bad, I assume so since the design looks like that...[Also need to replace the boot]..
If this is correct, then the question is how to know for sure that the inner is failing and not the outer (or both)?
I appreciate your help,

Let's see-

Testing. You are looking for rotational play in a joint. I've got a large set of channel lock pliers. You could put on the emergency brake and put the car in neutral.

Then rotate the shaft between the joints for play. That should give you an idea of the outer joint. If you hold the inner joint on the diff side and get lots more play... it's the inner joint.

I would surmize that if the inner joints are available, then they should be replaceable. Probably similar to a VW or Porsche and not bad to replace.

Did you call Potomac and see if they had used axles? Is fastlane qouting you for just the axle or a kit which includes the inner flange for an extra $150 or so? If you are cash strapped, you can put the old style axle in your car....

Make sure the splines are clean of mud, ie don't strip those bolts! I use to just use a small screw driver and then tap the spline socket to make sure it is seated.

Michael

__________________
Michael McGuire
83 300d
01 vw A4 TDI
66 Chevy Corsa
68 GMC V6 w/oD
86 300E