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#16
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The clamp holding the hose was actually loose. The upper was replaced at 312,000.
I will be replacing the lower one shortly for peace of mind. Thanks
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Enough about me, how are you doing? |
#17
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Pull the hose and examine the fitting for deterioration. If it is etched, cracked, or brittle (try scraping it -- if you can scratch off powdery stuff, it's brittle), replace the radiator. Otherwise, it will be radiator plus head time when the fitting snaps off on the highway.
Peter
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1972 220D ?? miles 1988 300E 200,012 1987 300D Turbo killed 9/25/07, 275,000 miles 1985 Volvo 740 GLE Turobodiesel 218,000 1972 280 SE 4.5 165, 000 - It runs! |
#18
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Everything looks good. I just think they were just loose.
My indy suggested that a possible way to prolong the neck life is to insert a copper tube the same diameter as the neck(slightly smaller) for support. Anyone try that?
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Enough about me, how are you doing? |
#19
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The new rads have a re-inforcement sleeve from the factory. A copper fitting exists that just slips in, making it easy. Can't tell you what size, though, all mine have new rads .
I broke the upper radiator nipple on the Volvo while setting the injection timing. Much nicer than blowing it off on the highway, trust me. My sister did that in her 740 turbo wagon, took me a week to get it fixed (new head, too). Make sure you tighten the clamp properly -- not too loose, but definitely not too tight. I just tighten till the clamp is level with the surface of the hose. Too tight on the plastic rad fitting is asking to crack it... Peter
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1972 220D ?? miles 1988 300E 200,012 1987 300D Turbo killed 9/25/07, 275,000 miles 1985 Volvo 740 GLE Turobodiesel 218,000 1972 280 SE 4.5 165, 000 - It runs! |
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