1976 300d - PeachParts Mercedes-Benz Forum

#1 01-21-2004, 07:47 PM

Thinking of buying a 1976 300D. Are there any suggestions, typical issues, or mechanical problems with the 5 cyl that I should be concerned about?

Thanks,
Jason

diesel don · #2 01-21-2004, 08:00 PM

Jason:

Use the search function here and you'll find lots of info.

I would throw out two things to get you thinking:

1. Its a good engine and easy to work on BUT you must enjoy it. Otherwise I'd not look at a MB diesel. There is plenty of help here but you'll have to take advantage of it.

2. The 5 cyl in a phenom engine if its been taken care of.

Don

notlostmaybe · #3 01-21-2004, 10:52 PM

rust is the worst problem. if you have it in the floor pan
or wheel wells it is hard to repair or stop. trunk rust isnt
so bad.
underbody rubber and window rubber is bad whatever the
mileage after 15 or so years. bad underbody rubber and the
car will handle like crap. good underbody rubber, ball joints
and tie arms and it handles fantastic, especially on bad, wet
twisty roads. new rubber isnt too hard to put in and will cost
about 400 all the way around. ball joints are 20-50 a piece and there are 6 of them. front & back window rubber is about 75
each and you probably need someone to put then in for you.
if the glow plugs are working and the starter is good and the battery is good and there is fuel up to the injectors, it should start from cold within 1-5 revolutions. warm it should start instantly after the glow plug cycle. otherwise the engine is
probably worn. smoking is often a sign of excessive wimpy
driving style and is correctable with fuel line cleaners and
pedal to the metal driving.
there are two fuel filters; if they are black there is algae in the
tank which is cleanable.
cold and at idol the engines chatter, a lot. they are very smooth
under load, smoother than gas.
almost all the odometers are broken and the instrument
cluster easy to exchange so true miles is seldom known.
the blower motor can be easy or hard to fix, depending on
what is broken. cables to the heating/ac are this cars nightmare.
that and a broken sunroof.
auto trannys are harsh in upshift, smoother in down shift and
and in upshift hold thier gear longer the harder you gun it.
the are totally mechanical and not vacuum assissted. they
are very efficient.
almost everything you remove from this car can be replaced
by parts from 1967 to 1985, gas or diesel, various series. new parts are cheap and plentiful.
now, do you love diesels or hate them?

don

Fisherman · #4 01-21-2004, 11:15 PM

1st if you are not too into working on your own car this mihgt not be a great find. Chances are it has a number o items that you might want to look at doing just to make sure it is right...
That being said, if it has good records you may have found a deal.

2nd, the rust on the 115 body can kill it. I have seen two that had the vacuum lines going to the trunk lock hanging out the fender in the back where it rusted completely out.

Now I have to also say that I am a bit biased as I wish I was looking at it! I really want to find a 115 body 300D to work on...

If you decide to pass on it let me know.

kerry · #5 01-21-2004, 11:23 PM

It's a non-turbo.

NC240D76 · #6 01-21-2004, 11:28 PM

Hey Fisherman,

If you feel like a trip to N Carolina there is one available in Wilmington that seems to be in very good condition. The owner is retiring from school teaching and moving to fl.
I think he wanted $1800.00 but I have only seen pictures.

This is the third 75-76 300d I have seen for sale in this area in the last four months.

Fisherman · #7 01-22-2004, 11:04 AM

I'll be in Atlanta on Tuesday. Maybe I'll run up...!
Wishful thinking I'm afraid. Mommy would be pissed when I told her that I won't be home for an extra 4 days...

NC240D76 · #8 01-22-2004, 11:38 AM

Fisherman

My mistake it is a 75 not a 76 300d.
If you change your mind let me know, the guy just emailed me to make him an offer and we might be able to work the price out.

pictures at

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&mfcisapicommand=ViewItem&item=2454148992

joshhol · #9 01-23-2004, 12:10 AM

The 76 300D is a great car, I hope you can find one in nice condition. I believe they drive much better than the non-turbo W123's and are more classic looking.

The one thing not mentioned is that hard starting can also be a fault of improper valve clearances. Rule that out if it's an issue.

These are mechanically simple, but also old. Expect some work needed to be done and by no means rule a car out if it needs some work.

Good luck.

Fisherman · #10 01-23-2004, 10:37 AM

Give me a day or two here. Did you drive the car?

NC240D76 · #11 01-23-2004, 11:16 PM

Pictures only.
I will see if I can get to the car this weekend.
A test drive and a few minutes under the car and the hood will give a good idea of the value of the car.
I noticed he relisted it on ebay but still has a reserve.

NC240D76 · #12 01-24-2004, 11:53 PM

Fisherman,

I drove the 75 300d earlier today, not sure what to tell you.
Good power and pep, no smoke and started very well, oil pressure pegged and even after it was warmed up the oil pres. needle was pegged in park and dropped to aprox 30 in drive holding it w/ the brake and idling. No exhaust leaks, top of the fan shroud broken, new battery, nothing else under the hood appeared new and the a/c looked like the r-12 fittings. Motor fairly clean but not cleaned looking.
The brake warning light was on and the pedal was low but did not fade and the brakes stopped well but not totally smoothly and pulled right a little.

Car accelerated well but slightly roughly (italian tune-up needed?) and shifted well through all three shifts, kick down worked and downshifted fine.
Steering and suspension felt good but I barely got to 55 mph due to the area (35-45 speed limit), tires fair to good.
Front seats very good, rear rough. carpet fair headliner good, doors and dash good except for the speaker cover.
vacuum unlocks and locks all doors, windows work but two are sluggish.
The floor of the trunk is perfect, both the rear floor boards have a little surface rust by the rear seat support, the front has surface rust and heavy rust by the cable path and the outside front corners. The front jack points have med to heavy rust, the rear light rust.
Under the front floor is rusty but under the rear and the trunk is good.
Every quarter panel has rust(rot) but not the hood or the trunk. I think I remember one rusted through place by the rear window chrome other it is all in metal panels.
Glass good, rubber good. No wind noise when driving.

The car seems good but the rust is substantial, I would guess $800.- $1000. in rust removal/ body work if you have it done.
Add for paint.
He dropped the reserve on ebay to $1400. which is still very much too high to me.
I have his phone numbers if you are interested.

Fisherman · #13 01-26-2004, 10:17 AM

I think I am going to pass as the rust thing is just not something that I am prepared to have to deal with.
His number is probably a little high still but who knows he might find soemone. Thanks for taking the time to look inot this awrite up the nice outline.
Cheers,
Fisherman

NC240D76 · #14 01-28-2004, 11:27 AM

I understand.
I think the 81 240d manual that lost an oil line would be a better use of your time, it is not 3000 miles away.

Good Luck,
Brian