Ultra Frustrating!!!!!!!!! - Page 3 - PeachParts Mercedes-Benz Forum

Eric Eliel · #31 01-27-2004, 05:19 PM

I picked up the 1-13/16" socket from Sears today. NOTE to others its a 3/4" drive. I have a 3/4" drive handle. The socket is about 3" deep and the handle adds another 2-1/2". Is there enough room down there both of these tools? I can probably put a strap wrench around the socket. Just want to know in case I need to stop and pick something else up on my home tonight.

#32 01-27-2004, 05:27 PM

i used a 1/2" drive ratchet with an extension then a short 1/2" - 3/4" adapter then the same socket you just bought. That was perfect for me, i dont know if youre setup will work or not.

Eric Eliel · #33 01-27-2004, 05:53 PM

You think I may need an extension? OK, I'll stop by the local Pep Boys and p/u one of the cheap 1/2" to 3/4" adaptors. That will work for this purpose.

If I keep going much further I might as well have bought the Snap-On tool.

#34 01-27-2004, 05:57 PM

Why are you going to get a 1/2-3/4" adaptor when you already have a 3/4" inch drive ratchet? All you may want is a 3/4" extension that is maybe 3+ inches long...

Eric Eliel · #35 01-27-2004, 07:23 PM

I only have the 3/4" drive handle with no additional accessories. I have plenty of 1/2" stuff. The 1/2" to 3/4" will give me more options and I don't need the torque of the 3/4" setup.

#36 01-27-2004, 08:48 PM

Why did you pay $16 for a socket and $9 for an adaptor? I just paid $1.45 for a 14mm bolt and $0.59x2 for two nuts. I can just use my normal ratchet and 14mm socket (And save $22.50). My tank is almost empty, I'll see how nasty it is inside there.

#37 01-27-2004, 10:10 PM

From what coachgeo and dmorrison wrote, i believe your bolt and nuts tool will only work on the wagon. I have a sedan.

#38 01-27-2004, 10:23 PM

Any tips on cleaning the inside of the tank while it's completely drained of fuel? If the screen is so dirty, imagine what's stuck to the tank walls.

Eric Eliel · #39 01-27-2004, 10:32 PM

I haven't looked under that part of the car in quite some time. I don't have an extra car when the diesel needs work. Today I had to rent a car while I picked up a new primer pump and the "sure thing" tools to remove the strainer. The threads don't look that fine, the bolt MAY have worked for my application (300D) and certainly it was a good idea. The tools are cheap insurance that I can remove the part quickly and reliably without having to extend the car rental past tomorrow morning.

The 300D is my daily driver, I replace and repair items based on reliability first. The fuel drain hose will be replaced tonight along with the strainer. The new hose was cheap, the old one 20 years young. Again I can't afford to remove a 20 yo hose and have it fail upon re-installation. The new one was only $11.

dmorrison · #40 02-23-2004, 12:05 AM

Now that I have a W123 sedan (daughters 240D), I can add my 2 cents about having to R+R the fuel filter screen due to algae.
I have the Harbor Freight set that Whunter mentioned above.
I tried to use the set to remove the filter screen. I found that I could not use the socket and the ratchet that came in the set due to a clearence problem with the axle. Or any combination of the set to remove the screen.
I have adapters for 1/2 to 3/4 drive etc. But to many adapters combined, gives you the same problem as using the socket and ratchet.
A 3/4 universal would allow the use of the socket. I don't have a 3/4 universal.
I decided to grind the ratchet side of the socket to allow a 32MM open end wrench, I have, to fit over it and then use that combination to remove the screen.
My screen looked much like the one pictured above and of course lots of diesel came rushing out once the screen came out. Cleaning it required an hour soak in a cleaning tank, carb cleaner and brake cleaner and then a blast with air to get it completely clean.
A clean screen, new hoses, new filters an algaecide and the car is running nicely.

Dave

PS The wagon is a lot easier. A 22MM bolt and 2 nuts are a lot cheaper than a large socket set and grinding. But when you need the tool, you need the tool

underp2 · #41 02-23-2004, 12:37 PM

Any ideas on cleaning the tank? This is on my list of projects and since the PO ran the tank dry (idiot), the flood of diesel will be small, if any (idiot). Do I need the 46mm for the 300CD or will some combination of misc hardware work

Rick Miley · #42 02-23-2004, 01:20 PM

Sears sells this handy little device they call a socket cap. It inserts into the drive end so that you can use an open end wrench on the socket where space is limited. Dave, would this correctly address the problem?

leathermang · #43 02-23-2004, 05:50 PM

82-300td, On old cars I have bought in the past ( only my first car was new ... a 68 Dodge Dart superbee ) I have regularly taken the tank out and pressure washed it at the local car wash.. then I use the ' other' end of a shop vac and power dry it.... if it needs patching or welding I put water into it as close to the area as I can and fix it... then power dry it again....
It is really helpful to be able to slosh any cleaner around on all sides of the tank.... I seal the openings with duct tape or proper fittings... this is also the cheap way to coat the inside of the tank if need be... the tank sealers are expensive and you don't want to use any more than necessary...not much way a filter can look like that and the inside of the tank not be pretty ugly also.... which means if you stick biocide in there and the algae dies... then it will be heading for your cleaned or new filter... to start over with the whole process....

dmorrison · #44 02-23-2004, 06:16 PM

Gee Rick. Now you point those out.
Yes that would make the job a lot easier and would probably cut down on the required grinding of my tools!!!

Leathermang I guess its time to remove the tank and pressure wash it.

Dave

dmorrison · #45 03-04-2004, 02:10 PM

leathermang
Please post your technique for cleaning a fuel tank. I have an algae problem with my daughters 240D and figured I would take the tank our and use my high pressure washer on it. A local radiator shop will charge $65 to boil out the unit. Depending on your post and results, it may be better overall to take it there.
How clean did you get the tank?

This will be for the 83 240D

I figure
1 remove fuel, then the screen and sending unit
2. disconnect the return/vent hoses, then the tank
3. insert HP washer into the tank using the screen/sender hole
??? how do you get to "all the corners" My HP washer gun is straight.
4. reverse the shop vac and blow dry the tank. Should take a couple of hours depending on the amount of water in the tank.
5. reinstall the tank/sending unit and screen/hoses.

Any chemicals that would help disolve the algae scum on the sides of the tank? I noticed this when cleaning the sending unit. Took lots of brake cleaning spray and some rags.

Did you physically use rags in the tank, probably with a stick to clean the sides or did the HP washer do the trick?

Please add you knowledge.

Thanks

Dave
7709

PS If I take it to the radiator shop. Does the tank have any plastic inside the tank. They warned me about this. They don't want to damage it in the process.