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  #1  
Old 02-13-2004, 10:59 PM
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valve adjustment difficulties

i am in the middle of adjusting my valves and am currently stuck on #7. it seems like its just spinning and i cannot get the gap to change. has anyone else had this problem and if so how did you solve the problem?
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Old 02-13-2004, 11:05 PM
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That's when you need the third wrench. See the picture below, borrowed from Performance Products. Some people have reported being able to stick a screwdriver in there to hold the spring collar.
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valve adjustment difficulties-wrenches.jpg  
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  #3  
Old 02-13-2004, 11:08 PM
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the big nut?

the part right under the adjustment nuts that looks like a giant nut?
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Old 02-13-2004, 11:13 PM
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Yep.
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  #5  
Old 02-13-2004, 11:18 PM
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thanks

THANK YOU SO MUCH!!!!!!!
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  #6  
Old 02-14-2004, 02:16 AM
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Using a screwdriver to jam it in place works fine for me.
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  #7  
Old 02-14-2004, 02:18 AM
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done

its done look under the post"i did it"
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Old 02-14-2004, 12:24 PM
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Ok,, just for reference for others in the future who find this thead... or do a search ....
The valve adjustment on these old overhead cam diesels is done by adjusting the position of a nut which is threaded on the actual valve.... the valve has a slot in it and a wider nut at the bottom of the adjustment stuff but above the valve seals...has a tang which fits into this slot..... it can rotate with the valve rotators fitted in most of these engines.. but allows a way to ' clamp ' the valve rotation for adjusting purposes...
In the event that the top nut or the next lower nut ( which is used to lock the top nut at the proper height ) are stuck... the wider, slotted nut is used to hold the valve from rotating so the upper two can be set and locked together...
That is why you sometimes see people post saying that they have never had any problems and don't need any way to hold the lowest nut. But , IF just ONE valve adjuster nut is STUCK.. then you need that lower one to get it loose enough to move.
Most people find that the bought lower wrench, due to it haveing a ' stand' which holds it at about the right position.. plus some combination of to bent wrenches ( I got Crasftsman and bent them myself ( being cheap ) are very helpful for doing the valve adjustment.... But I bought the lower one after trying and failing to make it ...
I am sure we will have several posts now saying basically " you wimps" ' I have always used plain wrenches and have never needed to hold the bottom nut'..... LOL
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Old 02-14-2004, 02:55 PM
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No name calling needed....

I'm just going to say I guess I've been lucky that I haven't needed the 3rd wrench. Yep, I've simply used a home bent set of old 9/16 wrenches to do the deed. I'm glad I carefully read the replies so in case in the future I get a stuck nut, I can just jam a screwdriver into the lower collar.
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Old 02-14-2004, 03:40 PM
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Thanks for not calling me any names.....
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  #11  
Old 02-14-2004, 03:47 PM
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i just use a crecent wrench to hold it.
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  #12  
Old 02-14-2004, 03:48 PM
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Don't worry leathermang, I never will...
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Old 02-14-2004, 08:31 PM
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Since we are on the subject of valve adjustments, I recently adjusted the valves on my '76 300D. It now starts much easier, which I can understand. What I find amazing is that prior to the valve adjustment, It would billow white smoke on cold startup. Since the valve adjustment, no smoke. Could someone explain this to me? What is the principal behind this?
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  #14  
Old 02-15-2004, 02:13 PM
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Sure

The easy explanation might be that you've increased the cold compression. If a valve was tight-then it might have had a combustion chamber with lower compression which would either be unburnt, or semi-burnt fuel.


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  #15  
Old 02-15-2004, 11:07 PM
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OK that makes sense. All the valves were tight.
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