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  #1  
Old 02-18-2004, 04:25 PM
kobeck
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Delvac 1 Help

I started using DELVAC 1 last month. I did the first oil change today at 1800 miles and the oil looked like molases, when do i do the next one and when cazn i start doing regular interval oil changes, and when should the regular intervals be? also, i purchased an oil analizer bottle, when should i submit the sample for them to analize?
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  #2  
Old 02-18-2004, 04:40 PM
sixto's Avatar
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Oil in a typical Diesel engine will look like molasses very quickly. Sometimes after a trip around the block. Diesel engines are like that. Don't worry about it.

My guess is that the best time to send an oil sample for analysis is at the end of a typical oil usage cycle. As in right when you change. Part of the analysis is to suggest that you're waiting too long between changes or that you can leave the oil in longer without detriment.

Sixto
95 S420
87 300SDL
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  #3  
Old 02-18-2004, 08:06 PM
kobeck
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Quote:
Originally posted by sixto
Oil in a typical Diesel engine will look like molasses very quickly. Sometimes after a trip around the block. Diesel engines are like that. Don't worry about it.

My guess is that the best time to send an oil sample for analysis is at the end of a typical oil usage cycle. As in right when you change. Part of the analysis is to suggest that you're waiting too long between changes or that you can leave the oil in longer without detriment.

Sixto
95 S420
87 300SDL
yes i agree, it is already like molASSIS AFER 1 MILE
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  #4  
Old 02-18-2004, 08:09 PM
engatwork's Avatar
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When you take the sample take it "mid stream" during a hot oil change. This insures you get an accurate sample.
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  #5  
Old 02-18-2004, 10:13 PM
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On Delvac 1 and other synthetics, you can probably go 5000 miles or longer depending on the results of your analysis. Most people here will tell you the oil turns black instantly after an oil change. When I do my 2-hour oil change I tilt the car to help it drain better, then flush it with fresh oil. This way, I get rid off a lot more soot which likes to accumulate on the bottom of the oil pan and the oil stays semi-transparent for a few hundred miles.
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Last edited by DieselAddict; 02-18-2004 at 10:19 PM.
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  #6  
Old 02-19-2004, 12:02 AM
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The main reason why fresh oil becomes dark very quickly is because about 1 quart of OLD dirty oil stays in the oil cooler lines and the oil cooler (located next to the radiator). The soot and sludge in this 1 quart of old oil are enough to make your new oil turn black very quickly after starting and driving for a short distance (several miles). Some of the leftover oil in the bottom of your oil sump also adds soot and sludge to the new oil.

A regular oil change (either by removing the oil sump's drain plug or by sucking through the oil dipstick tube by a topsider) does not remove the old dirty oil in the oil cooler lines and the oil cooler. I have found that the topsider method actually removes more dirty oil from your oil sump than the conventional drain plug method (not a single drop of old oil dripping from the drain plug hole after just several minutes of sucking). When I change oil (be sure that the oil is HOT and HOT), I park the car with its front downward on an inclined driveway, or jack up the car's rear if it's on a level surface. Next, I use a Mityvac oil pump to suck out the old oil through the oil dipstick tube. It takes only 5 minutes to do a pretty thorough oil change, and everything stays clean without a mess.

BTW, don't attempt to remove the oil cooler lines with the intention to completely remove the old oil. It's a pain to remove these things, and you will also create a whole mess of spilled dirty oil on your driveway or garage floor. Time is precious, so do not waste your time for being paranoid about how to remove all the old oil to prepare for a new oil change.

Eric
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  #7  
Old 02-19-2004, 01:19 AM
LarryBible
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Eric,

Don't muddle up Joe's mind with facts.

Have a great day,
Change oil hot and change oil often.
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  #8  
Old 02-19-2004, 03:55 AM
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240Joe, I am serious, but maybe you're imagining something else. I don't spend 2 hours continuously flushing the engine with fresh oil. Most of the time is spent on draining and usually I just run a quart of fresh oil through the crankcase and filter housing before putting the drain plug back on. It really makes a difference in how long the oil stays clean after an oil change.
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  #9  
Old 02-19-2004, 07:06 AM
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Dieseladdict,

You are completely wasting that quart of oil you "flush" with. With all of the places the old oil is trapped in the engine, you are fooling yourself if you believe that is a worthwhile procedure.

Larry,

You're the person that seems to be into witchcraft. This mantra of changing your oil every 3kmiles is rediculous. You should know better but you refuse to look at it with a clear mind.

Joe
Don't change it often, you're wasting your time and money!
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  #10  
Old 02-19-2004, 08:31 AM
LarryBible
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240Joe,

DieselAddict is spending his own money as he sees fit. What is motivating YOU for such a crusade? The man is just being thorough.

Have a great day,
Change oil hot and change oil often.
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  #11  
Old 02-19-2004, 04:19 PM
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Yippee! Another oil thread!

Kobeck, 1800 miles was a little premature, but that's OK. It will probably turn black quickly but this is normal - don't worry about it. The safe interval is determined by oil analysis and will vary with each different engine, although generally OM61x motors produce more soot and can't go as long as OM60x. You didn't mention what year/model you have (that's nice to put in your signature, along with your name, btw.) Anyway, 5kmi is probably a conservative estimate for future changes, although I wouldn't go beyond 7.5k or 10k without oil analysis to back that up. My analyses show that my 603 engines can go 10-15k safely while my 617 can go 7.5-10k at most, assuming a 2% soot limit (that's Mercedes limit, the Delvac-1 can suspend 4%, while Mobil-1 can only suspend about 2%.) For oil analysis, I buy kits from Snider:

http://www.sniderpetroleum.com/oilanalysis.html

Specify the "extended drain" kits, $12.50 each plus S&H - it's cheaper if you buy several at a time.


Best regards,
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  #12  
Old 02-19-2004, 05:58 PM
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I know, I know, use the search...........but since we are having another oil thread anyway, is just about everyone using synthetic in their diesels? I have 2 diesels but have not switched and wondering if I should.

Besides longer "potential" intervals between change, are the lubrication advantages worth the difference in cost?

Which brand is best? And there are no issues switching in a high(er) mileage engine. For some reason, I used to think (or be told) the one switched right after a car was broken in or not at all. At least with american gassers.
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  #13  
Old 02-19-2004, 06:08 PM
kobeck
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Quote:
Originally posted by gsxr
Yippee! Another oil thread!

Kobeck, 1800 miles was a little premature, but that's OK. It will probably turn black quickly but this is normal - don't worry about it. The safe interval is determined by oil analysis and will vary with each different engine, although generally OM61x motors produce more soot and can't go as long as OM60x. You didn't mention what year/model you have (that's nice to put in your signature, along with your name, btw.) Anyway, 5kmi is probably a conservative estimate for future changes, although I wouldn't go beyond 7.5k or 10k without oil analysis to back that up. My analyses show that my 603 engines can go 10-15k safely while my 617 can go 7.5-10k at most, assuming a 2% soot limit (that's Mercedes limit, the Delvac-1 can suspend 4%, while Mobil-1 can only suspend about 2%.) For oil analysis, I buy kits from Snider:

http://www.sniderpetroleum.com/oilanalysis.html

Specify the "extended drain" kits, $12.50 each plus S&H - it's cheaper if you buy several at a time.


Best regards,
It is an 87 300 td wagon, this is my first time switching to delvac so i was told the first couple times youi need to change early to clean out the engine, i thought i would do the next one at arounf 3000 and then after that go to 5000 with an analysis
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  #14  
Old 02-19-2004, 06:09 PM
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No problem switching at high miles, unless the engine leaks badly already, then you'll just waste oil. I switched my cars when purchased at 189k, 229k, and 202k respectively with no problems. Stick with brands that use Group IV/V true PAO synthetics (Mobil, Amsoil, Red Line), not the "fake" Group III junk (Castrol, Valvoline, Rotella, Delo, and most others). There is no "potential" longer interval, that's reality - would you change your dino oil every five hundred miles? No? Why not? Because it's not "worn out". Same with Group IV/V synthetics, they're not worn out at 3k or 4k. They still retain their viscosity, additive packages, etc etc... changing sooner is throwing away money. The advantages are numerous but it depends on what matters to you personally. I like the added protection, decreased engine oil & coolant temps, better MPG, quiet valve lifters, etc etc... But yes, as the dino crowd will point out, your engine will last just as long when using dino oil changed as MB specifies. Most cars die before the engine fails anyway (wreck, rust, etc).
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Dave M.
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1997 E420 - 155kmi (Bugeyes)
1994 E420 - 145kmi (Blondie)
1993 500E - 193kmi (Lollipop)
1992 400E - 189kmi (Stinky Dirty)
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  #15  
Old 02-19-2004, 06:14 PM
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Quote:
Originally posted by kobeck
It is an 87 300 td wagon, this is my first time switching to delvac so i was told the first couple times youi need to change early to clean out the engine, i thought i would do the next one at arounf 3000 and then after that go to 5000 with an analysis
I'd leave the current fill in for 5000 and have that analyzed. The initial 1800 probably cleaned things pretty well. If the cost is not a problem, you could do the 3k followed by 5k, that's a little overkill IMO but sure not going to hurt anything. I have the same engine as you, btw - should be getting 28-30mpg on the freeway. Nice car!
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Dave M.
Boise, ID

1997 E420 - 155kmi (Bugeyes)
1994 E420 - 145kmi (Blondie)
1993 500E - 193kmi (Lollipop)
1992 400E - 189kmi (Stinky Dirty)
Check out my website photos, documents, and movies!
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