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#1
02-20-2004, 12:20 PM
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300d problems
Okay just got the car on trade.... they said fuel pump was out cost $200 to get one... well to see if I like the car I thought I would use a eletric fuel pump just to try it out but no luck my question is how much fuel pressure dose the manual pump push out??? wanting to get this thing to run or I will junk it or sell it
it's a 1980 300d automatic any help is helpfull also how do you bleed the line from the injector pump one by one or all at the same time??? 
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#2
02-20-2004, 12:22 PM
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pic of motor
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#3
02-20-2004, 12:54 PM
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injector pump is the fuel pump = more than $200
Hello smurfblue3
injector pump is the fuel pump = more than $200. I bleed all lines at once. Have a great day.
__________________
ASE Master Mechanic asemastermechanic@juno.com Prototype R&D/testing: Thermal & Aerodynamic System Engineering (TASE) Senior vehicle instrumentation technician. Noise Vibration and Harshness (NVH). Dynamometer. Heat exchanger durability. HV-A/C Climate Control. Vehicle build. Fleet Durability Technical Quality Auditor. Automotive Technical Writer 1985 300SD 1983 300D 1984 190D 2003 Volvo V70 2002 Honda Civic https://www.boldegoist.com/
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#4
02-20-2004, 01:03 PM
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okay I think I worded it wrong is it called a lift pump... it is attached on the side of the injector pump if it goes out can you replace it with a electric pump I have worked on a few 6.9 and 7.3 but I'm no expert
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#5
02-20-2004, 01:11 PM
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It is likely that the manual primer pump is the old style that allows air to leak into the system. I've heard of several cars changing hands because that pump failed, leaving the owner stranded and they gave up on the car. If the primer pump has a red or white screw-down handle, then it is a potential leaker. The replacement has a black plastic cap that you just push to prime.
The entire primer pump assembly has a list price of $250, but the part that you need is just the pump at $16.00 on Fastlane.
__________________
Rick Miley 2014 Tesla Model S 2018 Tesla Model 3 2017 Nissan LEAF Former MB: 99 E300, 86 190E 2.3, 87 300E, 80 240D, 82 204D Euro Chain Elongation References
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#6
02-20-2004, 01:27 PM
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yes it has one of them white handle ones on it so should I trun it or just go buy the 16 part??? or can I replace this with a eletric pump??? man thanks for all the info I really want to drive this car instead of junking it or selling it.. again thanks
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#7
02-20-2004, 01:38 PM
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If it's just the hand pump, it's a $16 part and is CAKE to install, ten minute job.
If it's the IP, then you're in for a LOT more than you think, but LMK if you end up just selling or parting it, I really like the blue.
__________________
1984 300D Turbo - 4-speed manual conversion, mid-level resto 1983 300D - parts car 1979 300TD Auto - Parts car. 1985 300D Auto - Wrecked/Parts. ========================= "If you don't know where you are going, any road will get you there". Lewis Carrol
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#8
02-20-2004, 01:54 PM
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Don't mess with an electric pump. Just get the replacement primer. Fastlane can overnight it to you, or if you're in that big of a hurry, get one from a Mercedes dealer.
__________________
Rick Miley 2014 Tesla Model S 2018 Tesla Model 3 2017 Nissan LEAF Former MB: 99 E300, 86 190E 2.3, 87 300E, 80 240D, 82 204D Euro Chain Elongation References
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#9
02-20-2004, 03:55 PM
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Check all the suction side hoses (the one with the clear filter in it) -- if they are damp from fuel, replace them, they are allowing air in.
Blow some low pressure air back into the tank with the cap off -- if you don't hear air bubbling, the tank screen is hopelessly clogged and you need to remove and clean the tank. I'd put new fuel filters on, too -- fill the main one with either fuel or fuel treatment to reduce priming time. When you get the new priming pump installed, start pumping with the bolt on the main fuel filter loose. Pump until no more air comes out, then tighten that bolt and watch the return line from the IP -- pump until no more air comes out there. Crack the injector lines at the injector and crank engine with your foot to the floor until no more air/fuel mix squirts out, then tighten cap nuts and glow, then crank. Should eventually start. The lift pump itself almost never goes bad on these pumps, but the fuel lines do, and the tank can get clogged with algae so that no fuel ever gets to the IP. Running them like this causes the pump to fill with air, and getting it out is a huge PITA -- no start until the pump, injection lines, and injectors are full of fuel! No start from plugged fuel filters on neglected cars is very common, and dead fuel lines gets quite a few more. If you get clouds of fuel mist out the back and no start, it's time for a compression check and diagnosis. If you never get fuel mist, you dont' have fuel in the IP yet, or it's completely fried (very unlikely). If you don't get fuel moving through the clear filter when you crank, and the lines are good and you can get fuel with the hand pump, the lift pump is bad. Bolts onto the side of the IP. Peter
__________________
1972 220D ?? miles 1988 300E 200,012 1987 300D Turbo killed 9/25/07, 275,000 miles 1985 Volvo 740 GLE Turobodiesel 218,000 1972 280 SE 4.5 165, 000 - It runs!
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#10
02-20-2004, 04:43 PM
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RICK I tried your web page listed but it would never let me order the part may be my comp I dunno...
PSFRED the line from the tank is not clogged when you have the line off the lift pump/prime pump it will drip fuel out....when I hook the electric fuel pump up to the line it pulls plenty of fuel.... I have hooked the eletric pump to regular line bypassing the lift pump/prime pump.... ran it through the filter and cracked the line at the IP pump and fuel will run out any other suggestions???
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#11
02-20-2004, 07:07 PM
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Inlet out return? Return is on the side, line goes to the tank return line at the fuel filter next to the overlfow line from the injectors.
Your pump must supply about 30 psi to the IP, by the way. Next step is to crank the engine with the injector lines cracked to see if you get fuel delivered. Make sure the glow plugs work, or it ain't gonna start! Peter
__________________
1972 220D ?? miles 1988 300E 200,012 1987 300D Turbo killed 9/25/07, 275,000 miles 1985 Volvo 740 GLE Turobodiesel 218,000 1972 280 SE 4.5 165, 000 - It runs!
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#12
02-20-2004, 10:50 PM
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Click the button at the top of the page labeled "Fastlane". Sorry, but they're closed for the weekend now.
__________________
Rick Miley 2014 Tesla Model S 2018 Tesla Model 3 2017 Nissan LEAF Former MB: 99 E300, 86 190E 2.3, 87 300E, 80 240D, 82 204D Euro Chain Elongation References
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#13
02-21-2004, 09:21 PM
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IP On EBay
Just in case the IP might really be bad,
there is a 83 300d IP on Ebay now for the whopping price of $12 Its worth a look.
__________________
Thanks, Mike '83 300D '87 Volvo DL Wagon '88 420SEL (SOLD) '98 Toyota Camry SE V6 '96 Ford Brono XLT '94 Mercury Villager '46 Willy's CJ2A '40 Packard 110 4DSD "Just another squirrel, trying to get a nut"
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#14
02-23-2004, 08:40 AM
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okay thanksfor the info I just tried to unscrew the white prime pump gave it a few pump and the dang thin squirted feul out around the stupid pump valve so I belive this is the root of the problem thanks a million guys I'll update you when I get it running...
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#15
03-18-2004, 10:05 AM
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well guys I put the prime pump on well gues what that ain't the problem....when I push the prime pump it will push fuel to the filer and IP but when I turn the motor over it wont squirt a drop..... so my next question is the part where the Manul pump valve screw on can that go bad or is it a sign of the IP pump gone south??
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