1980 300D
Here’s one for the electrical geeks. The fuses for the electric windows as most of you know are (a) for the front right and rear left windows, and (b) for the front left and right rear windows. Here’s what’s happening that driving me nuts: All the windows work fine from the center two switches, but the rear ones wont work from their door switches. Sounds like the child safety lock is on. So, I push in the safety switch and the left rear window will now work from both the center switch as well as its door switch. But now, the fuse (b) for the drivers and right rear window blows. In fact. If the safety button is pushed down, (b) blows as soon as the ignition is turned on. What’s up with this ?

That's my guess anyway... My daughter's window is starting to act up now too just like yours. I haven't tried the lockout button but if it blows my fuse I'm going to be watching your post with great interest...

The switch comes out easy enough but getting to the wiring requires that you pull the console. it's not a big project just takes time and is easier without one seat in teh car. I can pull one out though in about 5 minutes. passenger's is easiest due to no arm rest.

Might also just try to see if you can find an open to ground wire from the rear switch. This might at least give you an idea what wire you're chasing.

__________________
'99 S420 - Mommies
'72 280SE 4.5 - looking to breathe life into it
'84 300SD Grey - Sold
'85 300SD Silver - Sold
'78 Ski Nautique

Here’s the weird thing. It’s been a long, long time since I’ve had that all out and I don’t remember any dealings with the wires to the switches. But then, I don’t remember what year it was that anyone may have been the last to try the rear switches either. I’ve gotten to the point that I could probably draw the darn window schematic off my head. One thing I now know is that the wires going to that left console switch don’t pin out to the switch numbers as shown on the schematic. When I put them where they show though, nothing works. A friend of mine has an 80 300D that I think I’ll go take a look at. Another weird thing, is the schematic shows one side of the safety switch is to ground. Now I think I’ll chase down why the other goes hot upon ignition “on“. Not sure yet if that’s right or not. I’ve spent most of the time checking the other wires. All seems well there. Other than the odd pin out. Let me know if your safety switch is what’s blow’n yours. I’ll keep you posted as well.

I’m at the point with it all now that I might just grab the new G-Loomis I just put on the Winston and head your way in the Caravan. May be too cold for fish’n, but it still beats leaky shutoff valves and goofy windows. On my favorite car or not.

Matter of fact, I just talked the family into going camping today...
It's only in the mid-twenties at night and all the way up to 50 this weekend during the day...Sounds almost like summer!

One thing that I noticed in my 80 is that the right rear window switch in the console is backwards. I tried to reverse it though and the pins don't match. I figured I could live with it but I might have more going on here than just a switch starting to go out in the back. Nt a big deal now as my daughter can at least roll it up from back there.

__________________
'99 S420 - Mommies
'72 280SE 4.5 - looking to breathe life into it
'84 300SD Grey - Sold
'85 300SD Silver - Sold
'78 Ski Nautique

I have the 126 so the vehicles are somewhat different, however, I have been dealing with a similar issue for the last six months.

I determined that I had a bad switch at the RR door and replaced it with a brand new switch. The new switch works perfectly from the door. However, when the console switch is pressed, in either direction, the fuse immediately blows. I spent a few hours and tracked down all the pins on all the connectors. I found that the brand new door switch is not wired properly. There are four pins in the door switch that were wired common where it should have been two and two. Now, this switch is supposed to be the factory replacement switch for this application.

To confirm that I was right, I moved the LR door switch to the RR door and now both the console and door switch function fine.

So, I remain without an explanation. I will probably go and buy a new switch directly from the stealer and THEN I will hopefully get some answers if it does not work. M/B would not help, naturally, because the switch came from Performance Products. Performance Products refused to help and simply credited the cost of the switch.

My conclusion to all of this regarding this thread is that I would bet that the problem lies in the switches and NOT in the wiring.