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  #1  
Old 03-03-2004, 01:39 AM
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E300 1997 stalls while running

My 1997 E300 (137,000 miles) stalls while running normally. It can be on the highway at 50 mph, or a side street at 5 mph. The engine just stops. I coast to the side of the road and try to restart it. After several tries over a minute or two, it will start up and run perfectly. It will continue to run fine sometimes for several days, and sometimes for longer before stalling out again.

I notice when it won't restart that the preheat lamp will go out immediately (or not come on at all sometimes) instead of hesitating for a fraction of a second as it usually does with a warm engine when turning the key.

It seems to me that the problem must be in a circuit that controls the fuel and also the preheat, as the preheat indicator doesn't show proper glow plug operation when the car won't start. I can always tell when the engine is ready to run again when I turn the key and the preheat lamp comes on again.

Thank you.

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  #2  
Old 03-03-2004, 01:34 PM
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Fuel Shutoff valve on top of the Injection Pump. Heard this item is somewhat common on the 606's
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  #3  
Old 07-01-2005, 12:01 PM
What's that noise?
 
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I have the same exact problem with not starting. The glow plug light not coming on and everything is exactly as you describe.

What was the problem? Fuel shutoff valve as Michakaveli suggested?
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1997 E300D - naturally aspirated
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  #4  
Old 08-27-2005, 07:50 AM
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Any luck with this??? I just started experiencing the same problem for the last two weeks. It has died on the interstate twice. No warning, it just quits. A very dangerous problem to have, especially on the Atlanta interstates!
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  #5  
Old 08-28-2005, 01:10 PM
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Anybody?
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  #6  
Old 08-28-2005, 02:31 PM
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Elaborate more on when the vehicle stalls out. Is it traveling on the highway under load, or is it at minimal throttle when it stalls.

Seriously, have you looked to check for bubbles in your fuel lines? That is the first and easiest item to check.

How is the performance of the car, does it seem underpowered or same as usual?

I think these main items might help us help you to track down your problem...
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  #7  
Old 08-28-2005, 08:37 PM
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It has cut out on the interstate twice around 80mph and it has cut out several times while coasting to a stop. It has also cut out while stopped at a red light. The car dies cold without any warning at all. There is no sputtering or sluggishness. I have seen no evidence of bubbles and the fuel lines were replaced about four months ago. The cut outs started occuring about two weeks or so ago. I'm scratching my head on this one. If it stumbled then died or had trouble starting, then I would think it was a fuel related problem. I'm thinking it may be some sort of electrical problem. Any ideas would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks!!
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  #8  
Old 08-29-2005, 08:42 AM
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Exclamation

Several items can cause that problem!

Seems lately that the power supply realy is ONE of the most common.

MB number 210-540-03-72

NOT always the cause but the most common.
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  #9  
Old 09-01-2005, 08:11 AM
What's that noise?
 
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k40 relay

Check my post on this. I've listed how to check K40 relay. That was my problem and the dealer said it's quite common. My post describes where to find the K40 relay.
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  #10  
Old 09-04-2008, 11:47 PM
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Ok, i have the solution

I had this problem too in my car. It used to happen every friday morning for about a month.
Unffortunetly, we have to rebuild the transmision because water from the radiator was flooding and mixing with transmission fluid through the fluid cooler.

We found some sensors damaged because of the water and one of these was the rpm sensor, we changed it and the car stopped stalling while running
another thing, you should change your battery if it has been working for a long time

i hope you can solve your problem too
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  #11  
Old 09-05-2008, 05:17 PM
What's that noise?
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sgwilliam View Post
I had this problem too in my car. It used to happen every friday morning for about a month.
Unffortunetly, we have to rebuild the transmision because water from the radiator was flooding and mixing with transmission fluid through the fluid cooler.

We found some sensors damaged because of the water and one of these was the rpm sensor, we changed it and the car stopped stalling while running
another thing, you should change your battery if it has been working for a long time

i hope you can solve your problem too
SGWilliam, did you also have the exact symptoms (glow plug symptoms,etc.) as described by the original poster? I did. In my case, the K40 relay was bad.
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  #12  
Old 09-05-2008, 05:26 PM
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RPM sensor is the CPS.

Not a common issue on a diesel as all it does for us is provide RPM.

The prior poster doesnt say if he has a diesel or gasser; CPS is a common fault for gassers as the CPS provides the timing reference.
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  #13  
Old 11-05-2016, 10:26 PM
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Okay, going to resurrect this thread as it has no result and my car just so happens to be doing the same thing. The rest of the internet has no answer.

Quote:
Originally Posted by rhack View Post
My 1997 E300 (137,000 miles) stalls while running normally. It can be on the highway at 50 mph, or a side street at 5 mph. The engine just stops. I coast to the side of the road and try to restart it. After several tries over a minute or two, it will start up and run perfectly. It will continue to run fine sometimes for several days, and sometimes for longer before stalling out again.

I notice when it won't restart that the preheat lamp will go out immediately (or not come on at all sometimes) instead of hesitating for a fraction of a second as it usually does with a warm engine when turning the key.

It seems to me that the problem must be in a circuit that controls the fuel and also the preheat, as the preheat indicator doesn't show proper glow plug operation when the car won't start. I can always tell when the engine is ready to run again when I turn the key and the preheat lamp comes on again.

My case is 100% similar though it has gotten far more frequent as of late....meaning, every day, multiple times a day. The car would stall once every few weeks and when trying to restart, the glow indicator would NOT come on. After a few tries of the ignition, the glow light would come on and I could start. On my merry way I went. Every last piece of the fuel injection system is newer, the K40 is new, ignition is new, etc. K40 was replaced for other reasons with brand new....I have like 7 others I've tried and they all do the same thing as well.

I literally just took the car on a 5000 mile road trip (you can see those posts on the blog):
W210: DailyDiesel Takes Over The West? Part 1 ~ Artisan
W210: Daily Diesel Takes Over The West? Part Classic Center Visit ~ Artisan
W210: DailyDiesel Takes Over The West Part: Probably 3 ~ Artisan

Without a SINGLE stall. Not a single hiccup through the entire trip. Thank you Mercedes gods.

I have a Mercedes HHT at my disposal and it doesn't show anything wrong with the system from its checks. So.... great, I guess. I've traced every last wire in the engine bay in hopes I'd find a short somewhere that might've made contact from engine vibrations, no luck. I did find out my engine harness was manufactured in 2006, so that's nice.

Everything on the car behaves as normal when turning the key - it'll crank all day long, just won't start until the glow indicator comes on. Sometimes it'll take 2 turns of the key, sometimes it'll take 10 minutes of sitting there to get it going. I've given up driving the car for now as I don't feel like blocking the left turn lane anymore lol

I've put in an order for a new Shut Off Valve today, so I'll update this post when I put it on and take it for a spin. Then will follow up after a couple weeks if all seems well.
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  #14  
Old 11-06-2016, 02:38 PM
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Maybe faulty fuel actuator or shut off on the IP.
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  #15  
Old 11-07-2016, 09:13 AM
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Check your entire engine wiring harness closely. I had to replace mine several years ago because I was having more strange problems. I noticed that numerous wires had cracks in the insulation with some exposed wires. Arcing was occurring in some places. The insulation was brittle and flaking off in many areas. From what I could find, Mercedes was using biodegradable wiring harnesses during that era. My car has mostly been out of the weather and garaged it's entire life, so there is no other reason to expect normal wiring to do this. The car has been perfect since replacing the harness.

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