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  #166  
Old 09-14-2008, 12:59 PM
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Ought to be only carbon on the GP body holing it now.

Suspect it just needs to be rotated back and forth numerous times and will then free up.

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  #167  
Old 09-14-2008, 01:06 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by babybenz View Post
Hey guys,
I followed the instructions to remove the glowplugs and now that I got to plug number 6, the threads cleared the block, but it will not pull out. I've sprayed it with PB Blaster to no avail. The threads are about 1/4 inch clear of the block, but the body is stuck in the chamber. Any ideas? Would cranking the engine blow it free?
I'd suggest using a slide hammer to pull it out, but I'm pretty sure you can't get a straight shot at the plug w/o removing the oil filter assembly. I've done that job before and it wasn't fun. My next suggestion would be to clamp extra large vice grips onto the head and use a lever to pry it out. Be extra careful to pry it straight out without any bending forces.

How many times have you tried to rotate is back and forth? Tapping it back in (a little) and then twisting it back out might grind up the carbon sufficiently.
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  #168  
Old 09-15-2008, 01:32 AM
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got it out

After letting it sit all night with a heavy spraying of PB Blaster, I attached vice grip pliers and twisted and pulled and it came free. You can see from the pic that only about 1/4 inch was all it would come out and the slurry of carbon gunk on it when it finally came out.

Just for reference--the elephant pipe or the corrugated pipe screw (the one you access from underneath) is a Torx-T30.. The manifold screws are Torx-T40.

My glowplug light went out, but the check engine is still on after replacing all 6. Hopefully a trip to Autozone to clear the code will fix this.

Great post--saved a ton of money. Took me a long time, but next time should be easier as my learning curve went way up.

Thanks a million.
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Finally - Step By Step Glowplug Change - '98-'99 E300!-img_2950.jpg   Finally - Step By Step Glowplug Change - '98-'99 E300!-img_2924.jpg  
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  #169  
Old 09-15-2008, 12:48 PM
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OK, here's a question for the guys who have had to exctract a snapped GP. I have one plug that's snapped off by a previous owner/mechanic somewhere about 1/2" below the hex portion. In the hole, I can see a solid black obstruction. When I scratch it with an awl, it feels like a solid bolt or some hard metal.

Is this what a snapped off GP looks/feels like? It's in the No.6 position so I have pulling the oil filter assy. to look forward to...

Thanks.
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Last edited by KarTek; 09-15-2008 at 01:13 PM.
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  #170  
Old 09-15-2008, 12:54 PM
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I recall the center electrode being silvery in color. Of course it could have oxidized. But it wasn't a very hard metal. My guess is that you are looking at the end of a broken off EzOut.

You could try using normal drill bits to drill out the obstruction. Just make sure the bit stays centered. If that fails, the head will likely need to come off.
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  #171  
Old 09-15-2008, 02:12 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by babybenz View Post
After letting it sit all night with a heavy spraying of PB Blaster, I attached vice grip pliers and twisted and pulled and it came free. You can see from the pic that only about 1/4 inch was all it would come out and the slurry of carbon gunk on it when it finally came out.

Just for reference--the elephant pipe or the corrugated pipe screw (the one you access from underneath) is a Torx-T30.. The manifold screws are Torx-T40.

My glowplug light went out, but the check engine is still on after replacing all 6. Hopefully a trip to Autozone to clear the code will fix this.

Great post--saved a ton of money. Took me a long time, but next time should be easier as my learning curve went way up.

Thanks a million.
Great job! Congrats. No reset is necessary, the CEL will reset itself after a number of normal glow/start cycles...I think 5-6 of them will do it. Unless you have tripped some other code, that is...but assuming your CEL is from the GPs then it will reset and clear automatically over time.
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  #172  
Old 09-15-2008, 02:18 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by babybenz View Post
After letting it sit all night with a heavy spraying of PB Blaster, I attached vice grip pliers and twisted and pulled and it came free. You can see from the pic that only about 1/4 inch was all it would come out and the slurry of carbon gunk on it when it finally came out.

Just for reference--the elephant pipe or the corrugated pipe screw (the one you access from underneath) is a Torx-T30.. The manifold screws are Torx-T40.

My glowplug light went out, but the check engine is still on after replacing all 6. Hopefully a trip to Autozone to clear the code will fix this.

Great post--saved a ton of money. Took me a long time, but next time should be easier as my learning curve went way up.

Thanks a million.
If I have not aready said this; I hope you plan to ream out the carbon from the Glow Plug holes.
I mention this again mainly for the newer members who have not had to face your problem yet. Seeing is believeing; your picture helps.
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  #173  
Old 11-22-2008, 01:09 PM
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question about intake

I just removed my air intake. I can see that indeed there is 180K miles of residue in the intake tubes; I can clean that out out. But what about down in the head itself. Is there anyway to clean that out? On some of the intake ports the build up is greasy and on others it's more of a dry cake. 1996 E300D. Thanks! Excellent instructions
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  #174  
Old 11-22-2008, 05:11 PM
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Guys, glad to see people are still using this guide, you're all very welcome. Wish I got on mbshop more often, just haven't in quite some time due to selling my E300.

Humzinger - with that many miles I'd consider pulling the head and cleaning it too, depending on the amount of gunk. Mine had minimal buildup in the intake ports, although I did stick some random tools wrapped with biodiesel soaked rags down mine to wipe out what I could.
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  #175  
Old 11-23-2008, 02:15 AM
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Fantastic report. The fear is gone! Well almost.
Thanks
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  #176  
Old 02-18-2009, 09:55 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by LightMan View Post
Get the appropriate glow plug REAMER tool from mb. RUn the reamer into the glowplug holes to break up carbon and make room for the glowplug. Doing this regularly in my view should help prevent the stuck glowplug/breaking off in the head problem.
I'm trying to envision this process. how is that the reamer won't break up the carbon, and then that carbon gets pushed into the cylinder when you push the new glow plug in?
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  #177  
Old 02-18-2009, 09:57 AM
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After reaming the hole, you're supposed to crank the engine over for a few seconds to blow the debris out. A little carbon won't hurt anything if ingested into the combustion chamber, but you don't really want any carbon around the new glow plugs...

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  #178  
Old 02-18-2009, 12:48 PM
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I need to do this job also ...w/ 176K miles on the clock and the glow plug light staying on......

I'm wondering if burning some B100 might have dissolved some of this carbon buildup ??

Back when diesel ran up so high....at one time almost $5.00/gal in CA......I had a good source and .... . bought a couple of 55 gal drums of it and burned it....sometimes straight....sometimes 50/50......until it was gone. Haven't used any bioD in about a year though.

Guess I'll find out when I pull the manifold......been dreading the job and putting it off for several months. Maybe I should burn a couple of tanks before doing the job.

Warren C.
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  #179  
Old 02-18-2009, 12:53 PM
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Guessing that when the plug gets weak and then stops glowing is when "most" of the carbon collects. When working, they get red hot; something like 1200F.
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  #180  
Old 02-18-2009, 01:07 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TMAllison View Post
Guessing that when the plug gets weak and then stops glowing is when "most" of the carbon collects. When working, they get red hot; something like 1200F.
Actually they shut off when the car is running after a short period of "afterglow" which sounds almost pornographic. The driving style, and I suspect, the EGR flow, lead to conditions of higher soot formation inside the engine. We don't notice this as an external soot discharge from the engine because of that soot oxydizing catalyst drum in the exhaust. But lots of loafing around will pack carbon inside the crevices in the prechamber. And, once the carbon is there it is a good thermal conductor - much better than air - and it draws the heat from the plug into the prechamber. The larger mass of the prechamber and cylinder head will prevent the plug itself from burning away any soot deposits completely, and may contribute to hardening it in place.

Find a long hill and after all is at normal operating temperatures take a run with the throttle pretty much wide open up the hill. Take a few passes. The idea is to get the temperatures up and flow rates up so you can burn off some of that stuff before you attempt to pull your glow plugs.

I have been relatively fortunate - I have not had any plugs stick and, changing them only as they fail, I have changed all 6 twice now. One was actually no more than hand tight the first time I tried (number 6), leaving me to suspect the dealer did that one in the past without taking the manifold off. And I have taken to using the car wash bays for DIY with the high pressure nozzles as the place to clean my manifold out. Does a great job on about 85% or more of the inside in about 3 to 5 minutes. Takes longer to clean out the bay.

Jim

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