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At what temp does that sensor trigger? 50C is probably the lowest temp that I'd want as an afterglow cutoff, but a lower temp should help to extend GP life.
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On my 81' SD the book says the temperature switch triggers with coolant temperature at 35-40C, or 95-104F. Sounds reasonable to me. While not full operating temperature, that's hardly a cold-soaked engine. I'll let you know how mine works out..
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Ok, after some work, I got the setup all done with a relay through the temperature switch and..................... Ugghh.. It turns out that the ground to the temperature switch is dependant upon the settings on the acc panel ... unless you are asking for full heat, the line is grounded all the time anyway. So in the end I just mounted a matching switch next to the headlight switch.. Works nice and gives full control..
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I am just bound and determined to not have too many buttons, lights, and switches on this car ;) (even though they are fun) http://brandon.importtransmissionexc...Schematic1.JPG |
Hey Brandon. Yes, I think the diode would work fine and to be honest, wish I would have thought of that yesterday. My switch matches nicely and is hardly noticeable. When I did the relay I installed everything in the current fuse box, put it all back together and it looks completely factory.. Maybe I'll upgrade to the automatic next time I'm doing a project under the hood.
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Sounds good to me. I'd put a switch in there but I like having it so that my car can take care of itself independent of the driver in the occasion that someone else drives it :-D
I planned on putting everything in the fuse box and was really hoping to find one of the stock silver relays and sockets to put in there. Anyone have an extra relay socket/relay for a w126? heh All else fails I'll drop a bosch in there and call it dandy. Did you include anything in the dash for the glow active light? I was thinking about this but it seems like getting ANYTHING through the firewall is a *****. :confused: Thanks! |
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I ran some lines through the firewall before and yes, it's a b!@tch. Since I ended up with a switch, I didn't install a light, but it is extremely easily done, Lots of blank spaces in the warning panel... I bought a continuous duty relay to use, which is what I recommend because the mercedes relays get plenty hot under continuous loads...
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does anyone have a working schematic of the glow relay circuit.it may also be possible with a resistor and capacitor to add a time delay function to the internal relay of the glow unit
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I'll just pop a bosch one.. what kind of holder apparatus did you use? |
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Could someone post a picture of the 603 setup with a thermal switch installed and where I can get all the parts? I'd like numbers if I could since I'm no electrical engineer. I understand the switch at the thermostat housing is the one used, but I don't get what relay is being used and how it's all wired up. Yes, I read the whole thread.
You guys are great. Thanks David |
Well, the thread originator had the temerity to go and get himself banned, so he can't respond--what a jerk. I guess I'll stand in for the jerk and try to decipher his cryptic ramblings...
He found the relay in a wrecking yard, but you can also order one from your favorite vendor. I don't have a part number, but MB uses these relays extensively, so go look in your fusebox to see which has the corresponding terminal numbers and get the part number off of that one. The 86 terminal is wired to the temp switch on the t-stat housing. The 85 terminal is wired to a 12v keyed source (w/inline fuse). The 87a terminal is wired to one side of the snipped violet wire. The 30 terminal is wired to the other side of the snipped violet wire. The 87 terminal is not used. He snipped the violet wire approximately 2" back from the relay, which required trimming the harness cover a bit. This is a very effective modification. Highly recommended. |
You could also do the same thing but with a time delay relay....the 30A 5 terminal relays are EVERYWHERE. Any autoparts store should have good stock of them. The time delay relay is a little harder to find...I think rat shack stocks them. They are very common. You could use a switched 12V supply and have your violet wire "hot" for a pre-determined amount of time...it is adjusted by a POT on the relay base. Just saying that there is more than one way to skin a cat. You could also have an override switch so you could have it on as long as you want...just more ideas.
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Thank you both very much. I'll be sure to try and do that. I assume they were speaking of the black wire with the purple stripe? I pulled that one wire out of the plug and put electrical tape around it for now. I have one GP burned out so this should help greatly.
Thanks David |
I took the black wire with the purple stripe out of the harness and moved it to the side. I then covered it with electrical tape so I can out it back when it wamrs up outside. Really, I don't know if I notice much of a difference once the car is running. It still has the usual 603 cold starting problem of smoke and missing.
Thanks David |
If you still have one or more burned out or out of spec GPs, then this mod may not help all that much. On the cars I've played with, this mod has produced fairly dramatic differences while the relay is actually energized--the positive effects taper off from there. Do you know whether your chain stretch and IP timing are within spec? How about injectors--air cleaner--delivery valve seals/o-rings, etc.?
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I have noted substantial results in the SD...all GP are working fine and dandy and the mod is as listed above using the temp sensor as a trip to prevent full glow on warmed engine starts.
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Well, it's that time of year again. This modification still works quite nicely, even after all these years. |
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What about the 617?
If I understand this thread, the mod was developed on a 603. Does the 617 have a similar thermal switch that can operate a relay?
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If you want the full factory afterglow setup on a 603, here's a link to a thread with details on how to do it, including photos, part numbers, etc. I've had this on my car for about 18 months and I love it.
http://www.***************/forum/showthread.php?t=398 The violet wire trick is free, but will reduce plug life somewhat compared to the factory afterglow setup (which varies afterglow time based on coolant temp). :scholar: |
well, after looking at my 617, it seems that there is a light gauge violet wire, which i am sure is the one we want. but there is also a black wire with a violet stripe. heavier gauge. this appears to be gloplug wire, so dont cut this one.
i noticed a few people ?? this when i first read the thread, just want to clarify this, as some people may just see that bl/v wire and not look further..... |
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Where is everyone getting the 12 volt keyed power from? What size inline fuse are you using? Thanks, Chris |
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Chris |
I don't remember which fuse I used in the panel. But, I believe I just opened up the back of the fuse box and located a free slot on a keyed fuse (maybe #8 or #11?)...dunno. The inline fuse is an 8 amp.
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Thanks, Chris |
This really sounds like a usefull mod to do on my car. As soon as it is delivered I will start working on it. Since it is getting cold around here, this is the time to do it. Cause if I understood right the setup is the same for my w123 300 TD (OM617) non turbo. Only have to find myself a thermo-switch. And if I won't find one I will be able to add that, since I did the same on an other car of mine..
Still one question left. Is 50 degr. (celcius) not a little hot to trigger the GP off?? Is the coolant heated over 50 deg. within 1 minute before the relay shuts itself off?? |
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If the purple wire goes to 12V when the engine is started then it could be used to power the NO relay? Right?
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I'm pretty sure the +12v is only present while the starter is engaged, but I'm not positive about that. I wouldn't try to use it to power the relay though.
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It's just a wire to give the relay a reference voltage when the starter is engaged. It's not designed to carry current.
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Where?
Where does one get a thermo-switch that cuts in or out around 40 deg C?
I need one of these for a fuel filter heater as well. |
What wire collors do I need to cut for a 1985 om617 Turbo? There are 2 violet wires going to the GP relay! Which one?
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Don't cut either one. Open up the connector housing, and remove one at a time. If the first doesn't work, then you'll know it was the other one. Tape up the end and leave it there. That way you can easily put it back to stock (which may be preferable in the summer, to make your plugs last longer).
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It's really easier to just buy one of these (you will get a real post-glow instead of just a few extra seconds):
http://www.***************/search/product.aspx?sid=wjb4fk55tq2x4uzquvbua2yo&makeid=800016@Mercedes&modelid=1193790@300DT&year=1985&cid =glow@glow&gid=7164@Glow%20Plug%20Kit |
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I also agree... it will pay for itself with the more maintenance free aspect as well. |
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That kit should work for most cars through 1985 with the OM616/617 engines. It won't work for the OM601/602/603 though. Those received factory afterglow starting in 1990 (a couple had it earlier), so the upgrade path for the early 60x is to use the factory afterglow parts. That's what I did for my '87, and it works great.
A full writeup on the OM60x afterglow, with photos & part numbers, is at this link: http://***************/forum/showthread.php?t=398 :mickey: |
Afterglow-rated plugs?
How do manufacturers make afterglow-rated plugs? How much longer do they last in afterglow service than standard plugs? Your answer should be of one of the three following forms:
(a) I don't know how they are made better but I have tried both and know the afterglow-rated plugs last longer by this factor . . . (b) They are made better as follows . . . (c) They are the same glow plug but sold in a box marked "afterglow rated" at a higher price. Everything else is your imagination. Finally, where does one buy afterglow-rated plugs? I checked both FastLane and ********AZ and found only the standard plugs for the 615-616-617 engines as well as the 601-602-603 engines. FastLane lists both Bosch and Beru for both kinds of engines but says nothing about them being afterglow rated or not. Jeremy |
People still buy glowplugs? I have several years supply of good glowplugs I got from junkyard cars.
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Jeremy,
EPC shows 000 159 81 01 or 000 159 83 01 for non-afterglow applications and 000 159 17 01 or 000 159 36 01 for afterglow applications. Fastlane shows F1100-11683 or F1100-117853 for non-afterglow applications. I don't see part numbers for afterglow applications. Maybe they show if you put them in a shopping cart. I didn't go that far. ********AZ shows 80006 for non-afterglow applications and 80031 for afterglow applications. After all that, the answer could well be (c). Sixto 87 300D |
Glowing with health . . .
Thanks, Sixto. I probably will leave the '85 alone but add the temp-controlled relay mod to the '87. Since only the first start of the day is likely to trigger afterglow, I would not expect to see much of a decrease in glow plug life (but we will see).
Jeremy |
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I made a minor correction to your part numbers (in bold type above). However, the difference between the two pairs is the dimensions, not the design/functionality: MB number 000-159-81-01 and 000-159-83-01 are 25mm plugs used only with vertical injection MB number 001-159-17-01 and 001-159-36-01 are 23mm plugs used only with oblique injection (aka inclined / angled injection) Bosch number 0-250-201-039 (aka 80006) is 25mm, click here for specs Bosch number 0-250-201-041 (aka 80031) is 23mm, click here for specs Also, check out page 4 of the Beru catalog (click here for the PDF file). Note that the afterglow rated plugs are capable of dealing with the higher voltage present when the engine is running (approx 13.5v, instead of 11.5v). That is probably the main difference between non-afterglow rated plugs, and afterglow rated plugs. Also check out these two glow plug tech articles from Beru.. click here and here (small PDF files). I believe all the Bosch and OE plugs (23mm and 2mm) will be afterglow rated. AFAIK, only the Beru GV- numbers are not afterglow rated. Finally... I created a cross-reference guide for most OM60x engines, listing the MB, Bosch, and Beru part numbers. Click here to view the text file. For the record, I'm ignoring the oddball 27mm glow plug, only used on the 602.961 (1987 190D-T) in the USA, since it is so rare. The Duraterm Chromium plugs are no longer available, the only difference was they were chrome plated for longer life, and had a 3-year warranty instead of 1-year. They were never sold in the USA, you had to get them from Europe. :scholar: http://www.w124performance.com/image...low_parts1.jpg |
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