No, there's no connection to the ELR (idle control). However, the alternator is now dealing with a big load at idle that it can't keep up with - the stock unit can only cough out about 40A at idle, and the glow plugs are probably pulling close to that when warm (cold inrush current is higher then it drops off). That might be part of the issue - I'm not sure. I have a 150A alternator upgrade on my car, so the electrical load isn't a problem (the big unit can pump out 100A at idle!).

:beerchug:

the low idle may also related to a fuel injection issue.for some time now ive suspected that im losing prime due to a leak or siphon.tough to track down though

Just a little something to keep in mind. My 606 only gets about 40,000 miles out of a set of glow plugs. So the afterglow definitely does shorten their life. But I guess if you live in a cold climate the tradeoff is worth it.

What is the sensor that comes from the block to the GP relay on a OM617 turbo?
I've seen some huge sensor on there and a wire that runs over to the GP and could that be used to run the purple wire relay?
Does it even have anything to do with that?
Just curious...I have no electrical diagram.
THanks!

I believe that you are looking at the coolant temp sensor for the dash gauge. The wire runs over near the GP relay but doesn't actually connect to it. AFAIK, that's the only switch on most 617 turbos, although I'm not *that* familiar with the 617...

The good news is, if you really want to add a temp switch, it should be possible using factory parts. Wiring it up is the easy part.

:rolleyes4

Isn't that sensor up near the water inlet and the ERG vacuum temp deal?
This this is huge and I may go take a pciture of it here shortly...if I can do this violet wire setup using that sensor (somehow) I will for sure do so...
I am savvy enough to do the 555 timer deal but I am rather lazy and a fan of the descrete components on a old timer like this ;)

The 555 timer's fundamental flaw is that it will still gived a fixed time when the engine is warm. You need an engine coolant temp switch for the most efficient setup (no afterglow when warm will extend plug life significantly.) The manually-operated switch inside the car theory works great but requires, well, manual intervention!

:vbac47679

Pictures
 

OKay so here it is...
I took some pictures...yay heh.
(my engine compartment is still dirty from the oil line explosion....so excuse the mess please :)
This is the Temp Sensor for the dash gauge (tested by unplugging, reading, etc)
http://brandon.importtransmissionexc...p/Picture1.jpg
http://brandon.importtransmissionexc...p/Picture2.jpg
This is a Temp Sensor/Switch for?
http://brandon.importtransmissionexc...p/Picture4.jpg
http://brandon.importtransmissionexc...p/Picture5.jpg

None of these go to the glow plug relay it seems, must be internal like was suggested...this sort of rules out the ease of just doing some wiring. Damn.

New or old GP relay? Old from how it acts....
http://brandon.importtransmissionexc...p/Picture3.jpg
(I do have the cover for this...it is just off for the picture/ID'ing

I just snipped my wire last night.

WOW, what a difference the next mourning. Usually it's fine for 5 seconds after start but now it's much better.

I will be sure to do this mod to Honeycomb when the time comes.

I was thinking you could incorperate a variable temp sensor (possibly use the prexisiting water one or the dash one?) into the mix and thus have a variable in the 555 Timing cycle dependent on the temperature of the auto. Yes/no?

For those who were wondering, the other temperature switch by the thermostat housing is the switch for the auxilliary fan.

Perhaps, but only on certain models. For the late W123's, the electric aux fan is *only* triggered by a referigerant temperature switch, not by coolant at all. I need to go look at my W123 and see if it has that switch on the t-stat housing or not, and if so, what it does!

:o

How sure are you about that?
I did a ohm test and as soon as the car gets to a mid range temp (not even "that" hot the sensor closes (pulls to ground)
My fan doesn't come on in this situation so thats what makes me wonder. Figure it would be worth being sure about it before I go attacking my fan for inoperation hehe
Anyone?

BTW this is dealing with a w126 (the pictures are too)

My 1986 300SDL (OM 603) recently developed a glow plug that isn't glowing. Previously, #4 checked open circuit, then fixed itself. Now the glow indicator doesn't come on and it's a bit lumpy after starting. I mean, even lumpier than the ususal 603's cold-blooded lumpy idle when first started.

I let it glow until 5-10 seconds after the annoying seat belt buzzer stops, which is about 5 seconds after the glow indicator used to go off. I turn to Position III (Start) and away it goes. The cylinders with functioning glow plugs fire right off, the one(s) with issues don't. I leave the starter motor engaged for about 10-20 seconds until I fel the non-glow cylinder begin to fire.

The Owner's Manual says leave the starter engaged until the engine is running smoothly. The cylinders that do fire help the starter spin the engine around those that don't.

I also understand that the glow plugs are on as long as the key is in Pos III. So, without cutting a single wire or modifying a single circuit, you can just keep the key turned and afterglow as long as you need.

Best Regards,
Jim

P.S. I plan to check/replace the glow plug sometime, just don't have time or garage space right now, and 603 plugs are much more PITA than 617. I don't look forward to this, and might have Dealer do it if I can't find time.

Hi Jim,

1) You probably have one or more GP's out. My GP light was working fine while I had at least one dead plug - when the light finally did quit lighting during normal glow, I tested and found TWO bad plugs. Replacing them helped starting immensely - no more shaking for the first 5-10 seconds.

2) Yes, the GP's stay lit while the starter is cranking - that's normal. But they go out when you stop cranking. The afterglow mod is much preferred over keeping the starter engaged for 5-10 seconds, IMO...! :eek:

3) You can kill that irritating seat belt buzzer by disconencting the 2-pole electrical connector under the driver's seat. On the W124, it's near the front, in a metal clip - remove it from the clip and unplug the two halves. No more buzzer!

4) Replacing the GP's in a 603 means one of two things. First, if your metal injection lines have never had the plastic clips & foam buffers replaced, and/or you have oil seepage at the #2 head port, remove the intake manifold. This gives easy access to the GP's and allows simple installation of the clips/buffers (which MUST ALL be in place). It also allows easy access to the dash temp sender, which is good to replace after 15+ years (they're ~$10 and tend to read low as they age.) Total job time about 3-5 hours depending on your skill level. If the clips/buffers are fine and you're not leaking at the gaskets, the intake can stay in place. You can access all 6 plugs using various 1/4" drive extensions, wobble/universal joints, a 12mm deep socket, and (most important) a telescopic magnetic pickup. Figure about 2-3 hours with this method, if you have the tools. DO NOT overtighten the plugs. Just past snug is plenty. Don't use a torque wrench.

:cool: :cool: