Once I finished work on the crossmember last night, I fitted the shifter rods. Remarkably, they're too long and don't need to be bent to fit. I will have to find the proper metric die to extend the adjustment threading further along the rod and then I'll trim off the end of the rod. I should be good to go on the linkage at that point.

Guilty as charged and already serving my sentence.

And I'm a damned good one too, thank you very much. But, what makes you think that weld pic hasn't already been retouched? Remember, the most important thing about altering photos is retaining believeability.

proper metric die .....
Not easy in Austin, as you know... but Austin Bolt, etc...... but more likely if you check in SA when you are down there... or do you have any "authorized representatives' in SA ? LOL

Here's where the old automatic's neutral safety, kickdown and reverse switch wiring exits the cabin and heads out to the tranny. Those clever Bosche decided to use the same orfice for the hydraulic line from the clutch master cylinder to the slave cylinder; I'll take a shot of it when the install is complete.

Almost directly above where the loose connector is in this shot, is the female side of the neutral saftey wiring. I'm thinking seriously about wiring a starter kill switch into that circuit.

Just obtained the necessary 10mm x 1.5 die and a cheapo handle for $14.00+change from American Bolt (5214 Burleson Rd # 304; 512/443-8521) here in Austin.

It sure would be beneficial if it were possible to install a clutch switch on that rig. The reason I say that is, when starting the 123 240D, I occasionally forget that it's a manual and it's in gear. ( Probably old age and senility setting in ). One of these days, I am probably going to crunch the wifes Lincoln that way. On the 115 240D, because it starts with the gorilla knob instead of a key, it's just natural to push in the clutch, but on the 123 since it starts exactly like the 300D, I sometimes forget that it's not an automatic. Too many cars around here, I guess.

Not a bad idea. I'll consider a clutch switch if for nothing more than to protect the other drivers of my car. FWIW, I don't think I've never owned a vehicle with a clutch safety switch...the Toad predates that sort of safety foolishiness and I don't recall that my last manual, an 85 Subaru wagon, had one either.

Quote:

...too many cars around here, I guess.

Well, let's see what can be done about that.<GRIN>

Randy,

I did a clutch safety in mine using a brake light switch (junkyard) thdd through the stock bracket on the clutch pedal assy (at the top where it pivots.)

I also used the conn that you show in the pic and made a schematic on how the wires hooked up (one goes to the reverse light switch at the shifter and one to the safety switch at the clutch).

I'll try to find the scribbled wiring diagram and post the wiring info.

Also, the clutch line doesn't go through that hole, it goes through another hole on the forward part of the kick well (behind and left of the accel pedal.)

For the hole you show, I bought one of those hardware store metal hole plugs that was just right for that electrical opening you show on the driveline well. RTV'd it in, then overcoated with truck bed lining on the outside.

TomJ
Is this where the hyd line passes through? I can't seem to remember these little details from when we took these parts off the donor...and also, I may have an excuse: some of this inside stuff was being done by my daughter while I pulled the tranny.

That diagram would be a big help too.

No, that's not where it goes through. The right hole should be much closer to the master cylinder. Is it there on your parts car? If not, I can look at mine tonight.

Rick, I think on this he does not have the parts car.. it was in a salvage yard and he got this months ago....

FWIW- by Sunday I'll have another parts car to look at and compare to.

I haven't even tried to position the hose in there yet. I'll bet that I can figure out where it goes when I put it in place provisionally.

Yes, that's the hole. You'll see that the solid line from the master to the slave fits right to that point and out that hole, no other place it can go. Just punch a small hole in the rubber to force the line out, no need to remove the rubber plug. Also, there should be a clamp that holds the line down to the floorboard, do you have that?

I'll take pics of my Mcyl line and post.

BTW, PLEASE paint your tranny while it's out! I HATE rusty, corroded looking things.

Hey, the paint on that tranny is just fine....according to PEH's standards.