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  #16  
Old 03-11-2004, 09:39 PM
Rick Miley's Avatar
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jivadent, I sent you an email but it bounced. Make sure you email address here is current, or your account may be deleted without warning. Meanwhile, I'm sending it in a Private Message. Press the "User CP" button to see it.

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  #17  
Old 03-11-2004, 10:12 PM
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Join Date: Mar 2004
Location: Watauga, TEXAS
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I've used Freeze 12 in every vehicle I've had that used R12. It works great! $8 a can- cools as well as R12- you can't beat it! I've never flushed the systems before adding it either. If I had the system open, I would just use a vacuum pump for about 30-45 minutes and start filling.

Some folks think they know everything. I only know what has worked for me.

Joe
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  #18  
Old 03-11-2004, 10:31 PM
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jds1982, Welcome to the forum....
R-12 does not exist naturally in nature.... it was engineered specifically to have certain properties for a very harsh existance in a very demanding job.
Dupont spent millions of dollars and had access to real engineers when they tested R12... It was used for Decades with no complaint about its ability to cool.
But since Freeze12 has worked for you I think we should ignore everything that was said in the ' alternatives to R12" thread and everyone change over.
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  #19  
Old 03-11-2004, 10:52 PM
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It is a shame the Chlorine in the ChloroFluoroCarbon is so damaging to the ozone, R12 is a great refrigerant and is superior to R134a in every manor other than price due to the chloride atoms killing off the 03, aka the ozone layer.

If you have a EPA609 license to buy it then it can be bought for about 4X the price of R134a.

I rarely use A/C, normally it is all four windows down and sunroof open but if it is brutally hot out I'll kick it on. My 84 had R12, very cool system. However, my 83 has been converted to R134a, it is alright but I'm not going to put the effort forth in converting it back since I use it so rarely.
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  #20  
Old 03-11-2004, 11:11 PM
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How about getting it topped up in Mexico=)

Seriously, I got my cert and 8-10 cans when Autozone closed out the 12oz cans. Your mech should be able to call Napa/Carquest etc.. someone's got it still.



Michael
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  #21  
Old 03-11-2004, 11:27 PM
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Quote:
Originally posted by BoostnBenz
I rarely use A/C, normally it is all four windows down and sunroof open but if it is brutally hot out I'll kick it on.
Lucky you...I spend far more time with my a/c on than with my heater on in the car. I just wish that the truck's a/c worked...and that the house had a/c! I can deal with cold weather just fine; it's heat that I can't stand...

I should get the truck's a/c working this summer after I'm done with the engine.
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  #22  
Old 03-12-2004, 12:32 AM
spark-free since 2002
 
Join Date: Feb 2002
Location: Sarasota, FL
Posts: 115
First, I really appreciate everyone's help on this.

My mechanic was gonna check for leaks, but there was no dye in my system, so he's adding some in.

The local parts stores here are AutoZone, Carquest, Discount, and SantaFe. I called 3 of the 4 kinds (though not every branch) and none of them had it. SantaFe was closed and I'm gonna call them tomorrow, and they might be my best bet because that's where AutoZone said I could get some.

However, in case they don't, from what I gather, the best place to get it is from e-bay, so I did a search and found this:

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&category=46094&item=2466033232#ebayphotohosting
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&category=46094&item=2466461881
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&category=46094&item=2466638886

I wanted confirmation that those links are the good stuff so that I don't end up spending $100 for nothing.
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  #23  
Old 03-12-2004, 04:39 AM
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Warden, Your Ford P/U is a good candidate for a 134a conversion. I have a '79 F100 that was converted in '99 and it still will pull down to 50 degrees at the vents on a 90 degree day. My '91 Super Duty was converted last year after a compressor lockup, and it will pull down to about 48 degrees on a 90 degree day.
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  #24  
Old 03-12-2004, 06:58 AM
LarryBible
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Without changing the compressor, a '79 Ford pickup is most definitely NOT a good candidate for 134. The York won't hold up very well with it. It is a good candidate from a capacity stand point because just cooling the cab doesn't take much.

I changed over my '78 Ford pickup several years back and then REVERSE converted it a year or two ago. It now will cause you to keep a sweater handy in August.

These are good a/c's that do not often leak, so get the system tight and use R12. It will be good for years to come. I bought my truck new and it held the original charge for over twenty years. It appears that it will do it again.

Good luck,
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  #25  
Old 03-12-2004, 07:07 AM
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Quote:
Originally posted by LarryBible
Without changing the compressor, a '79 Ford pickup is most definitely NOT a good candidate for 134. The York won't hold up very well with it. It is a good candidate from a capacity stand point because just cooling the cab doesn't take much.

I changed over my '78 Ford pickup several years back and then REVERSE converted it a year or two ago. It now will cause you to keep a sweater handy in August.

These are good a/c's that do not often leak, so get the system tight and use R12. It will be good for years to come. I bought my truck new and it held the original charge for over twenty years. It appears that it will do it again.

Good luck,

Did that deal with an 83 chevy half ton belonging to a grandmotherly type old gal. She'd had some ****y local place do the 134 deal and it was no good. Lucky for her, her departed husband left a shop with a locker full of r12. The remainder of that will likely go into that corvette in my signature, if I ever get around to fixing the heating vents and such in the dash. AC never worked well on it even when it was new, like most of the systems.. :p


Isnt condensor size a big deal with r134? Seems like when OEM's went 134 they suddenly had HUGE condensors on everything. Anyone found a larger one for the w123? Note that I don't remember off hand the size of the OE one, I guess if it's already radiator size that kills that thought..

I do AC work so infrequently, I litteraly have to get out my books and read up for a bit before I can get in the groove again. I just can't stay on top of stuff I don't(and have never) done pretty regularly..
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  #26  
Old 03-12-2004, 08:13 AM
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Jivadent,
I do not think you should allow dye to be placed in your system...
It is clearly a ' foreign substace" which may clog your TXvalve or other stuff...I have read many warnings on places like ' aircondition.com' etc about potential problems with using it.
It is also ONLY good to locate leaks in places which can be SEEN...if you have a tiny leak in the evaporator... the other type of ' Sniffer" can locate it... but you won't see it with the dye.
So for that combo of reasons I suggest you find someone with a sniffer type detection unit...
If your evaporator has a leek the other unit will register at the vents inside the car... ( I saw this happen on my wagon... my heart dropped since I had an idea of how hard that repair would be)...those electronic sniffers are amazing...

edit... a leek is realated to the onion.... you are more likely to have a leak.... LOL

Last edited by leathermang; 03-12-2004 at 08:26 AM.
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  #27  
Old 03-12-2004, 08:23 AM
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Wolf-Walker,
You are on the right track with regards to trying to mitigate the effects of the less efficient 134a in change overs.... (not counting the fact that the old compressors were not made to deal with the higher pressures)....
This is because the Primary limiting factor (bottle neck potential ) in an ac system is the " air over the condensor"....
There are some great threads on this and one or more people have changed over to the P-Flow condensors and added the electric fans which are able to move more air across the condensor.... At least one person did a great job of giving dimensions and descriptions of things like the little adapter hoses which were needed to place the largest generic P-Flow condensor into his 123.......
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  #28  
Old 03-12-2004, 08:30 AM
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Duracool?

I hope I am not hijacking the thread, BUT, Has anyone tried the Duracool R12 substitute? I've got a '94 Cheby pick-up with R134a from the factory (first year) and on a 90+ degree day it will almost get cooled down by the time I get home 16 miles later!!!
That's with it running MAX/recirculating!?!?
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  #29  
Old 03-12-2004, 08:42 AM
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JT8Mech,
Please read the link (R12 alternatives) which Rick Miley was kind enough to post above... hijacking per se happens.... but looks really bad when it is obvious you have not read the prior posts and references....
You will see that ( at three pages long) this has been discussed... and you can also do a search on ' duracool'.....
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  #30  
Old 03-12-2004, 08:45 AM
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HR12

HR12 is a Hydrocarbon replacement for R12 and provides a similar cooling efficiency. There is no need to change the compressor oil or dryer.

The only disadvantage it seems to have ,for some people, is that it is flammable (so is R134 under some conditions - I read this in the link posted earlier in this thread).
In the event of an accident, involving a rupture of the A/C system, you will release around 330 grammes of refrigerant (on a MB 300D). If you have run into the rear of another car, there may be the possibility of igniting it's fuel tank (unlikely since Nader made them make cars safer) But if you rupture the other car's fuel tank, then 330 grammes of HR12 is not going to make one iota of a difference.
I would also prefer to run into the back of another car (esp. a gasser) in a diesel vehicle, rather than a gasser, due to the lower fuel inflammability and reduced likelihood of an ignition source.

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