Continuing with our overhaul saga, we are now at the point of removing the cylinder sleeves. Hubby is a bit of a crazy inventor/machinist type, so after studying the issue a bit, came up with this solution. I should mention, he does collect a lot of junk (he calls them treasures :p ) so this was all made with stuff he had on hand. To give you an example of his 'junk', at different times he has been the proud owner of a urology table, and an ultrasound machine. He can tell me exactly what the 'good' parts are from each. I have no idea what this was originally, probably a nuclear missile launcher :p .

Anyway....

First he machined this piece on his lathe. He cut it to exactly fit on top of the cylinder sleeve (using the dimensions on the diagram from the manual), with a little lip on the inside to keep it from slipping.





Then it was attached to a long lead screw, inserted in the block and the other end attached to this mechanism which was designed to take the other end of the lead screw. There was a hole drilled through the lead screw for a torquing handle.



A little turning (okay a lot of turning), and viola! Out she comes. When he got close to the end he turned it over so it didn't fall out.



Here is the sleeve removed.



It worked like a hot damn! I like to think I 'helped' with the turning, but he could have managed himself (he took the first one out on his own). The only hiccup he had was on cylinder number 3, when, unbeknownst to him, he got a piece of kitty litter in the thread making it very hard to turn. He didn't figure that out until it was completely removed.

It worked so well, he's going to try using it to install them too. Without the pounding, I figure there shouldn't be any reverberation and bouncing back out again. Plus, with the thread he can stop it exactly where he wants to (move it up and down till it is completely flushed, if he needs to). I'll let you know if the theory is sound.

If it works, he may just have to rent this thing out.

__________________
Natalie

Nice job ! Heavy duty looking tool...mind telling us what some of the "raw materials" were ?

__________________
Diesel-guy

This is a big step in helping others get past some psychological barriers with regards to engine rebuilding...
The cheapest and BEST method for rebuilding our old engines is often resleeving the block. Our pistons are very well made and if they are still in good shape this puts everything back to stock in the bore..... a wonderful option not available for most engines.

Don't get too excited about avoiding the grinding of the tops of the sleeves (by being able to control the pust on the sleeve).... I think they are made long with the plan being to grind to bring it to specs....

That tool is probably 20 times as strong as it would have had to be..... ARGH ARGH ARGH ( tool man Taylor approves ).

I just asked him, and yup, this was the urology table. :p He has a friend who is the biomedical engineer at a hospital, and he lets him know when 'good' stuff is being discarded.

Yes, probably overkill. I think it was probably designed to lift 600lbs or so. Besides lifting, the rollers are designed to move you side to side to get you in the right position for checking your... uhm... urology. :p

__________________
Natalie

Wow, as I was reading your explanation, I was thinking the component had something to do directly with the urology aspect of a urology table.

That's precisely the reason I own a fully loaded handgun. I'm taking myself out if any of my urology requires a tool like that.

I think you should make up as many of those you can from components and rent them out. Nice little side business.

Ken300D

P.S. I'm just joking. This is not a cry for help. My urological components are all OK as far as I can tell. Thank You.

__________________
--------------------------
1982 300D at 351K miles
1984 300SD at 217K miles
1987 300D at 370K miles

Sounds good in theory Ken, but urology tables are not as easy to come by as they used to be. Just visit any 'urology table enthusiasts' board, and you'll see what I mean. :p

Pssst, I think these components were under the urology table, so don't be alarmed. :p Some parts of a horse are scarier than others, but where you sit looks harmless enough. :p As anyone on this board can tell you, you can't have a clog in the water pipes or you'll overheat and ruin your motor. So get help. :p

__________________
Natalie

Slick!

I will remember that when and if I do the 220D engine!

You should be able to pull the new sleeves down flush. Leave tension on the tool for a couple minutes to keep them from "crawling" back up and you won't have any trouble at all.

Make sure the holes are CLEAN first, ditto for the sleeves, or they can fracture... i.e. no kitty litter!

Peter

__________________
1972 220D ?? miles
1988 300E 200,012
1987 300D Turbo killed 9/25/07, 275,000 miles
1985 Volvo 740 GLE Turobodiesel 218,000
1972 280 SE 4.5 165, 000 - It runs!

"You should be able to pull the new sleeves down flush."
They are designed to be ground down to the proper height.

Does anyone have the pictures saved from post#1.

No kidding. I wanna see that.

__________________
Michael LaFleur

'05 E320 CDI - 86,000 miles
'86 300SDL - 360,000 miles
'85 300SD - 150,000 miles (sold)
'89 190D - 120,000 miles (sold)
'85 300SD - 317,000 miles (sold)
'98 ML320 - 270,000 miles (sold)
'75 300D - 170,000 miles (sold)
'83 Harley Davidson FLTC (Broken again) :-(
'61 Plymouth Valiant - 60k mikes
2004 Papillon (Oliver)
2005 Tzitzu (Griffon)
2009 Welsh Corgi (Buba)