Carefully pry the outer cap (grease cap) off and you should see it. There is an allen bolt in it that needs to be loosened and then you just turn it off.

When repacking the bearings you need to carefully measure out the grease and then torque things back down to the right specs when putting it back together. If you do a search there should be some pretty good step-by-steps that cover that.

The allen bolt locks the spindle bolt in place to set the pre-load on the bearings. Loosen the allen bolt and the spindle bolt will move freely - undo the spindle bolt and the hub, rotor and bearings will pretty much fall off the spindle.

BTW there is a bit of a procedure to set the pre-load on the wheel bearing when you re-install the hub. The correct factory procedure is to use a dial indicator to set the play to a specified value - most people just do it by feel but if you have not done one before you may want to read up on the procedure or find somebody to check the bearing set up.

You may find that unbolting the rotor from the hub is difficult. A tip is to bolt the loose hub to a loose wheel/tire, if you don't have a vise large enough to clamp the hub+rotor into. An impact wrench will help. I'd clean & re-pack the bearings, use the specificed amount of grease (45g between races and 15g in the cap) and try to borrow a dial gauge for installation. To clean & re-pack the rear bearing you'll need new grease seals, too. They're probably due for replacement anyway. The MB bearing play specs are much tighter than most, at 0.01mm, which by feel would probably seem too tight. It's a big job - I'm glad I never have to do it again!

For the rear rotors, unbolt caliper, remove hex screw in rotor face, release parking brake, and start beating the snot out of the rotor with a sledgehammer. You'd be amazed how tight those things are stuck on there!

:)

Why in the heck did they make the front so you have to remove the hub to get the rotor off? If the rear is done from a rex screw on the outside, then obviously the MB engineers knew how to do it that way. The only thing I can think of is that they wanted to be sure the front wheel bearings were regularly serviced. :confused:

The W124 and later cars are so much easier on this job.

so far so good. Finaly got the bolt out of the caliper and removed it and hung it away.

Removed the cap and the funky clamping nut with an allen head bolt in it.

Removed hub and disk

Removed disk from hub

put new disk on hub.

Will put back on AFTER I switch out the shock. Mutch easier to get to shock rignt now.

removing shock...... now thats a whole new problem. Seems I need some special type of hex socket to remove the shock bracket from the front supension arm. Another topic I guess.

Make sure the LCA is supported - the shock is the travel limiter, and keeps the spring from pushing everything past the limit of shock extension. The lower shock bolts are a PITA due to reduced clearance, and the upper nuts are much easier with an impact wrench. Again, this is one of those jobs I'm glad I will never need to do again.

While it's all apart, check the brake support joints - follow that rod back to the firewall/floor, that big thingy with 3 mounting bolts has a large ball joiint inside. They are usually *shot* after 200kmi!! Mine was terrible... dust boot mostly gone, and the grease inside looked like wax... :eek:

How do measure this? I have no scale of anykind?

Quote:

and try to borrow a dial gauge for installation.

I know NO ONE with a dial gauge. I don't even know any backyard mechanics in this area. (Im sorta new in town) Besides I didnt think I needed one since I am for sure replacing the disk. I have already baught all four of them and that is what I'm installing along with new pads and shocks.

Quote:

To clean & re-pack the rear bearing you'll need new grease seals, too. They're probably due for replacement anyway. The MB bearing play specs are much tighter than most, at 0.01mm, which by feel would probably seem too tight. It's a big job - I'm glad I never have to do it again!

Eggadd I just wanted to have a brake pedal that doesnt pulsate. ok... No dealer in town. Closest is 2 hours away. Now I have to order again.... SHIATTT. How do you measure bearing play? Can I do this later? I need to get the car on the road and feel out how much more money I should put into it (This depends on how well I can get the motor/tranny working)

Quote:

For the rear rotors, unbolt caliper, remove hex screw in rotor face, release parking brake, and start beating the snot out of the rotor with a sledgehammer. You'd be amazed how tight those things are stuck on there! :)

Ohhhhh Shiatzamoly this is turning into one Big PITA. Never going to get this done in one week.

See new topic on removing front shocks please.

Will have to do this later. Need to get this car on the road my other car is illegaly using the MB liscence plates.

oh..... (blush) that is what the dial indicater is for. Shiat... back to cheapo auto parts. Hope the hell they have a dial indicator.

What is the play setting?

Can I put it all back together with the new parts then go to the Eurocar autorepair shop in a few weeks or so and have them set the bearing end play for me?

bump for the last quesion in the thread
 

Ill be tackling this tommorow AM so anyone? Can I drive a few weeks with guess work setting of bearing end play then have forien car shop set the end play correctly?

How do I measure how much grease to use in grams. I dont have a scale?

You could guess fairly close on the bearing play, probably a lot of 123's out there being driven without micrometer-set bearings. Measuring the grease would get more difficult if you have NO scale... a postal scale works great. If you're using the MB grease, it comes in a 150g tube, so you could split that in half and guesstimate... not sure how else to do that!

:) :)

No MB dealer to get MB grease from. Manuel says use High heat , low friction axle grease. (something like that). I'll look for a postal scale or simular.