Just "Renewed" the instrument panel, lights and gauges and odometer
 

Pulled my instrument panel from the 84 300D this weekend. Made up a set of pullers from wood and a coat hanger. The odometer was working intermitedly (mostly not at all), there were spider webs behind the plastic instrument panel, the gauge needles were faded, one of two burned out lights and the dimmer was flaky.

The syptoms of the slipping odometer is sometimes it would work, which means a gear is slipping, rather than a broken plastic gear.

The odometer fix was tideous. After taking apart the center speedo section, the decision was how to access the odometer numbers. I didn't think I could pull the dial off without ruining the speedo needle. I went after the "locking" star wheel shaft which holds the number dials in place. I used an old Sears Dremel knock off (which is on its last legs after 35 years) to slightly knock down the crimp on the shaft. After the crimp was "ground" down, the shaft slid out. I don't think you can do a neat job removing the shaft without a Dremel tool. Then the main shaft brass bushing needs to be removed. This can be done using a small screwdriver to wedge and pry it off.

Once the main shaft is removed the numbers will come tumbling out with the offending slipping metal gear. You might be wise to keep track of the sequence. When the main numbers come tumbling out there is a very small WHITE star wheel which connects the main numbers with the trip odometer. WATCH WHICH DIRECTION THE STAR WHEEL IS ORIENTED SO IT GOES BACK IN CORRECTLY. Luckily I had an extra speedo, guess what I had to do! Clean all the numbers with 409 or Simple Green. The metal gear is not supposed to slip. The gear will already be off the main shaft, rough up the shaft with a very small file. It didn't take much. The gear is pot metal and will adhere to the roughed up shaft pretty well.

Put back together. You might want to make note that when the odometer is CORRECTLY put back together the trip odometer AND the odometer will change numbers at the same time when passing 9. Mine is off a little and I forgot to watch this. One of the web threads mentioned using red loctite on the gear, I don't know how you would do this without getting it on the number wheels and the side of the case. I tried, not sure if the loctite will be effective over a period of time.

Now is the time to make sure you don't break the law and accidently change the mileage. The roughed up shafts are a tell tale sign someone dinked around with the odometer.

Put the rest of the speedo back together. I cleaned out the spider webs, the plastic etc. Glued cracked plastic edge with super glue.

I changed all the light bulbs before the instrument panel was put back in the car. I also tested them because some of the orignal bulb's "leads" were soldered in. The new ones are not soldered. I checked all the bulbs before installation.

I also painted all the gauges with a Red Flourescent model paint. Took two coats.

The dash rheostat was giving me inconsistent lighting. After I burned up a couple of fuses, I took the instrument panel back out and discovered that the rheostat was bad AND was jumpered with bare wire between the circuit board and the rheostat. (bad fix from a previous mechanic, car's previous lifetime). I tested this with my VOM. I used the rheostat from the old inst. panel off my wrecked 300D. Note: the rheostat is a press fit onto a 2 prong extending from the circuit board. I thoroughly cleaned the "new" rheostat with electronic parts cleaner to get all the oil out of it (from a leaking oil gauge).

New rheostat works properly and I had extra fuses. Happy Day.

When you plug the circular electric dash connector back in, make a note to orient the plug correctly. Mine does not have indentations, so you CAN rotate slightly and insert the plug incorrectly, resulting in blown fuses. Poor design if you ask me. I marked it with a felt pen and carefully replaced.

Instrument Panel is back in, odometer works, lights work, gauge needles look a little too bright red (should have used a flourescent orange).

Took car into mechanic today for a "loaner" tumbler set. Tumbler AND the lock mechanism iswas sticking. I had this problem on my last 300D and waited too long. So I had to get a rental car today. Lock mech will be in tomorrow with a good loaner tumbler while the new one comes from back east. I figured I dodged the drill out rountine and probably saved some money. Its all good. Night gentleman!

That's odd about the circular plug, my 83 seemed to be keyed, I never looked close, just put it in and out half a dozen times, never got it off.. Wierd..

If anyone has to do this job again, just slide a drill bit in the hole made when removing the numbers shaft.
This will hold all the numbers in position and make this job very easy..

Frank,

That was a great idea that would have saved me a whole bunch of time! The diameter of the shaft is 3mm. I measured it last night. You'll need a drill bit or rod material 3mm or less in thickness and about 70mm in length. The key is then getting the small brass bushing off the main numbers shaft.

This is why this forum is terrific. Better ideas and solutions.

I take a small center punch and lightly tap the shaft end at the brass bushing. As the shaft moves out of the bushing, the light tapping allows you to stop the shaft in time to lift the bushing off and insert the drill bit.
Now tapping the drill bit pushes the shaft out.
To install the bushing after I am done, I use a small socket that covers the bushing, yet allows the shaft to enter the socket. I rest the opposite end of the shaft on the vise anvil for a solid stop.
I have done many of these odo's and I still like doing them...

Thanks, this thread helped me get my odometer working today.

I cleaned the digits with a Wet One and touched-up the needle color with an orange magic marker. Checked and cleaned all of the bulbs in the cluster and tested the odometer with an electric drill until the odometer turned over 10 miles. My drill only goes 40MPH.

If you can turn the pot metal gear and odometer digits while holding the brass gear and shaft still, you found the problem. I should have taken a picture.

I knurled the shaft, I don't see how you could reliably put locktight on it. The punch and drill bit method did it for me.

please describe the "puller "and removing the panel
 

you made for the panel? My odom shat before I bought the car and I'm just trying to get this "81300d up to speed. I've read some threads that talk about fixing this but it seems a bit daunting. I suppose that changes once you have the speedo in your hand to see what might need to be done.

thanks,- kevin

Theres a CD on Ebay I bought
 

that shows this process..........

Niice... I just repaired my odometer... pot-metal gear was slipping on the shaft... I didn't even need to remove the shaft entirely, there was enough exposed to rough up the silver gear's contact point (with a drill) once I removed the brass bushing and slid the shaft to flush with the housing. I already had the odo out, and the whole job took me maybe 10 minutes. Woot. Back to the 'count up'... The 240D I decided to keep (sold my 300D Greaser, thanks very much) shows 267K miles and is still going 'strong'.

Thanks for the tips on the odo-repair. Cheers!

Ash

Picture contributed by Mister Byrnzoil in this thread:
http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/116566-speedo-works-but-odometer-dont.html

Blue arrow points to the pot metal gear that slips on the shaft.

heres a pic from the top
 

shows the grey metal gear clearly...

http://rbk3.com/mbz/speedo/odotop.jpg

Could you post instructions on how you repaired your odometer with pictures detailing every step? I for one could really use such a thing, as could other W123 owners.
-Joe

sort of on topic- I had the cluster out in my 124 today, wonderful, saw someone had put 5w bulbs in it and melted it. I put the 3w's in and its back to its usual dim self. I have LED bulbs in my 123 cluster (had to replace the housing on the one, no light came through- too far melted) I guess I'll just switch them over for the time being untill I can order another set.

Also anyone have a good source for the temp display? the bulb on mine was burned out and the LCD display was broken internally.

I rectified this problem of Dim Dash Lights on my 240 and 300s cheaply. They sell these little Led lights -they come in a pair of two and with a long wire that plugs into to your cigerette lighter -I positioned the two little lights on both sides of my dash to decrease the glare focusing them on the gauges. They swivel for adjustment and really brighten up the dash panel. I routed the wire on the right side of my speedometer housing as inconspicously as posible. Not perfect but a 80% improvement in visibility. The light set costs about $10 at pep boys, auto zone or Discount Auto(now advanced auto) Whitney probably has theses lights also. Check out this posibility. :)

Links to a couple threads on How to Remove the Instrument Cluster.

http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/tech-help/32102-how-remove-instrument-cluster-2.html?highlight=remove+cluster

http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/56531-how-big-deal-remove-instrument-cluster-83-240d.html?highlight=remove+cluster