I have never had an SDL prior to this one, thus no comparison.

My indy has been telling me that it seems sluggish to him, that it should be a lot quicker, more responsive.

Anyway, he recently removed and resealed the injector pump and adjusted the ip timing.

What a difference!!!!!!

This thing actually chirped the tires today, betweejn 1st and 2nd gears.

It feels a lot like a gasser and other than the diesel engine sounds, it move like one too!.

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That's the way its supposed to run.

Remember that 300D you were talking about in an earlier post? Time to take him on.

Plantman,

What do you mean by "resealed the IP"?

P E H

Perhaps resealed was not the proper term.

He is German and his English is terrible, especially after a few Beck's.

He removed the IP and replaced whatever seals, or gaskets that go along with it.

Now I have no oil leaks anywhere.

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I took her on the hwy last night to Miami Beach and I have a new appreciation for it.

Prior to the adjustment, it would get to 80,90,100 mph but it seemed to be struggling. As I said earlier, I had no reference, so I figured that's the way it ran. Yeterday, I got it to 80-90and the car felt like it had a lot more to give and was not struggling at all.

Luv my SDL

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The 300SDL should accelerate from 0-62 mph in about 13 seconds.

Marshall

I don't believe in factory spec anymore. There are just some diesels that move, and some diesels that ooze.

http://www.ejzcars.com/!acceleration 8.mov

Enough, Plantman. Do what turbodiesel did with that car and make a digital video. Take it to the track and do a flat-out run with a GPS. Its healthy for the car, and healthy for you.

Over 23 cars, 40 years, and a million miles, MB factory 0-62 specs have been spot on when the car was running properly.

Marshall

I'll try timing it tomorrow.

I have to check it out first as I notice that since the timing adjustment, it is going thru the gears a lot faster than before.

Any relation between the ip timing and the tranny shift?

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YES!

Marshall

Do you suggest adjusting the modulator?

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The most common presenting symptoms of an occluded pressure line (resulting in NO fuel enrichment and thus 30% less power) in largely city driven MB turbodiesels is erratic or harsh shifting. When you get engine power back up to where 0-62 mph acceleration is about 14 sec, you've already done most of what needs to be done. Get the engine power where it belongs and the shift linkage adjusted PRECISELY where it belongs and WHEN shifting occurs will usually fall into place. If the shifting is then too harsh or too soft then you need to hook up gauges and check the working and modulating pressures.

http://www.continentalimports.com/ser_ic20242.html

http://www.peterschmid.com/1984_617.htm

http://www.peterschmid.com/roadtest.htm

http://business.baylor.edu/Richard_Easley/autofaqs/atcheck.htm

http://transmission.articles.mbz.org/adjust/

http://www.mercedesdismantlers.com/722.3and722.416_transmission_adjustments.html#722.3 and 722.416 transmission adjustments

Marshall

Plantman,

Did you clean out your intake manifold? If you did, did cleaning it give the engine more power?

P E H

PE,

I am not aware if that was done or not. The mechaninc did all the work and I was not present for most of it.

It seems to me that the intake would have to be removed to facilitate the removal and replacement of the inj pump though.

As I said, did not see the entire process.

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I have cleaned out 1/4+" oil/soot caking on two different intake manifolds (602.96 & 603.96 engines) and found ABSOLUTELY no measureable/detectable change in power. I do not know of a single soul that has been able to measure ANY improvement (and I know of more than a fw that have tried to measure an improvement). Most of the reports of improvement have NO measurements to back their claim (neither 0-60 acceleration times or boost pressure measurements or ANYTHING else) and since every measurement reported that I've seen has been negative, I expect that THERE is virtaully NEVER a detectable improvement..

It's my OPINION that the intake manifold SHOULD be cleaned (after all, I have done it twice ;-), but it is unlikely to change the 0-60 time by even 0.1 sec unless the stuff is more than 1/2" thick!

On '87 and earlier diesels, disabling the EGR will largely prevent further oil/soot accumulation. Later turbo diesels require a different approach - and the easiest will be to clean them more often (city driven cars maybe every 40-50kmi - highway driven cars maybe every 100kmi).

I'm NOT sure why this isn't a problem with normaly aspirated diesels that have EGRs, but is doesn't seem to be (but I only have one NA diesel with EGR and that system has been disabled so I don't have ANY experience with them).

Marshall