Does anyone have a step-by-step procedure, perhaps from the shop manual or on a web link, explaining the rear bearing replacement on the W123 chassis? I am getting ready to perform this job. From searches that I have done, I know that I need to buy the special socket, I have a dial indicator for end play, and I'll need a slide hammer to remove the hub shaft. From what I have read this is quite an involved job, and would feel much better if I had the complete procedure to follow.

Thanks.

__________________
Denis

1979 300TD 189,000 Miles, now running WVO with a home-made 2 tank conversion
1974 230 Gasser 189,000 Miles, For Sale
1961 VW Microbus 162,000 Miles
1961 Ford Fairlane 500, 53,900 original miles
1951 Oliver Super 55 Tractor
2002 Chocolate Lab

Here's a link to an on-line 123 manual.

http://skinnerbox.steaky.org/123_DISK2/program/123-cd-index.html

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Thanks,
Mike

'83 300D
'87 Volvo DL Wagon
'88 420SEL (SOLD)
'98 Toyota Camry SE V6
'96 Ford Brono XLT
'94 Mercury Villager
'46 Willy's CJ2A
'40 Packard 110 4DSD

"Just another squirrel, trying to get a nut"

Big Mike,

Do you have a link for a 116.120 ('80 300SD)?

P E H

PEH,

I spoke to Mark about the tool. It's still available for 29$. I'll most likely be ordering one. Have you modified your socket yet? I was wondering if it would be possible to turn the outer diameter with the lathe, as the socket is probably heat-treated and rock hard. Perhaps grinding might be better? Mark said that he has sold 30 already without any negative comebacks. I just want to make sure that the tool will not break.

__________________
Denis

1979 300TD 189,000 Miles, now running WVO with a home-made 2 tank conversion
1974 230 Gasser 189,000 Miles, For Sale
1961 VW Microbus 162,000 Miles
1961 Ford Fairlane 500, 53,900 original miles
1951 Oliver Super 55 Tractor
2002 Chocolate Lab

PEH,

Sorry, I only have the 123 link, which I picked up here on another thread.

__________________
Thanks,
Mike

'83 300D
'87 Volvo DL Wagon
'88 420SEL (SOLD)
'98 Toyota Camry SE V6
'96 Ford Brono XLT
'94 Mercury Villager
'46 Willy's CJ2A
'40 Packard 110 4DSD

"Just another squirrel, trying to get a nut"

I just got a chance to check out the 123 manual (website was down earlier). It was just what the doctor ordered. It`s pure gold for me!!! I'm gonna order socket tomorrow and do it myself.

Thanks Big Mike

__________________
Denis

1979 300TD 189,000 Miles, now running WVO with a home-made 2 tank conversion
1974 230 Gasser 189,000 Miles, For Sale
1961 VW Microbus 162,000 Miles
1961 Ford Fairlane 500, 53,900 original miles
1951 Oliver Super 55 Tractor
2002 Chocolate Lab

Each time the wheel is put on you need a new crushable spacer... I would order a couple extra and keep them on hand... it is easy to crush it too much and have to put a new one on...

Anyone,

Does any know how much you tighten the rear spindle nuts that crush the crush washer. How do you know when to stop tightening?

Lars,

I haven't done anything with the spindlenut tool yet. I doubt it is very hard because that would make it to brittle and it might break. But it is probably tough steel, but turnable on a lathe, because there are 4 small fingers that turn the spindle.

P E H