PEH,
Respectfully, he should most definitely replace the bearing in addition to the mount. I would recommend that he simply take the driveshaft to a machine shop along with his new bearing and mount to get them pressed together, then get that installed on the shaft. I recommend this based on his experience level and the fact that it is nearly , if not impossible to take the rubber mount off the bearing. It's only a 10 dollar part, and for a guy who uses that expensive coolant, why skimp here?
Thanks, Adam Bush

Adam,

I replaced the rubber mount twice on different but similar cars (220D and 240D) and I can't remember having any trouble R&R the rubber mount with out taking the drive shaft out of either car or replacing the center bearing.

But its been such a long time ago, I can't remember the procedure I used. But I know I didn't remove the driveshaft.

I did R&R a driveshaft once because of a bad center bearing, but the rubber mount was OK so I didn't replace it. I had a good used drive shaft so I just replaced the original driveshaft.

P E H

Why would I not have to take the driveshaft apart? The mount has to slip over thr driveshaft at some point. Is there another way of doing this that I cannot see?

I believe removal of the driveshaft involves turning a large nut, integral to the driveshaft, near the center support bearing, which effectively shortens the driveshaft. This allows you to take it apart at either end and remove the flex joint.

I would vote to not change the center bearing, this is a much bigger job, which would require complete removal of the driveshaft, possibly the exhaust system, and possibly the parking brake cables. I wouldn't do it unless the center bearing has failed. They typically last 20+ years and several hundred thousand miles.

Good luck.

__________________
1976 240D
1987 560SL
2007 E320 Bluetec
1998 C280 (now son’s car)
1982 240D Manual - Sold

DP,

You only have to take the driveshaft apart if you are replacing the center bearing.

The rubber mount slides off the driveshaft on the end where you remove the flexjoint. Sorry I can't remember which end of the driveshaft should be removed.

Try loosening the old rubber mount from the car body and see which way it will slide off the driveshaft before you remove either end.

P E H

PEH,
This driveshaft is different than that and does require the removal of the center support rubber in addition to the bearing. I know because I just replaced one and I took the whole driveshaft out to do it. Not too bad of a job.

How did you get the driveshaft out. Which end did you remove?

It's the rear on the 123....not sure about an SD. My guess is it would be the same.

__________________
1976 240D
1987 560SL
2007 E320 Bluetec
1998 C280 (now son’s car)
1982 240D Manual - Sold

Thank you. I guess I have to get out there again and check before the parts arrive. Dennis

Adam,

OK, I believe you. The newer MB must be different. The rubber mounts I replaced were the on the older 115 series and replacing the rubber mount on the driveshaft was relatively easy, and it was not necessary to remove entire drive shaft, just one end.

P E H

123-126 and 124 cars.

Center support bushing/bearing replacement 101

Remove driveshaft, mark relationship of front to rear with touchup paint.

Loosen large nut and seperate the halves.

Take big chisel and drive off the old bearing with the remains of the old mount.

Clean the rear section where the bearing mounted. Slide the new bearing over the shaft behind the dust washer. (providing you did not destroy it removing the bearing)

Take properly sized pipe (the same size as the inner race of the bearing as not to contact the seals on the new bearing) and a large hammer, place flex disc end against a brick wall or foundation and driver her home.

Take new rubber mount and lube inside with soap, drive over the bearing with a rubber mallet (not too forceful, you dont want to damage the new bearing)

Optional assembly method. Take new bearing and rubber, lube rubber and install bearing with a pipe sized just smaller than the ~outer~ race of the bearing. The reason I say just smaller is the bearing is deep in the mount and a tic bigger or the same size will get stuck in the mount.

Reassembly shaft with a light coating of grease, tighten and install into the car. With a lift, rust free car and air it can be done in 1 hour. This is also a fine time to replace the flex disc's and check the front centering bushing as well. the shifter bushings are easy now as well.



Joe

__________________
Project Smoker, '87 603 powered wagon
Hauler, 96 CTD can you say torque?
Toy 73 Cougar xr7 convertible
Acme Automotive Inc.
Raleigh NC
919-881-0364

Thank you for the details. A few stupid questions please

1) When you say remove driveshaft I am assuming that you mean the rear portion.
2) The dust washer - is that the rubber boot at each end (not there so I ordered 2)

Thank you - Dennis

Joe,

Are you doing this all without dropping the exhaust??? My exhuast is rusted to hell and if I remove it, I know I won't be able to put it back under there.

After reading many posts, I believe my Center Bearing Carrier is bad on my W123 280E, I KNOW the flex disc is shot, but when I drive the car makes a REALLY Load rattle/thump sound comming from right under the car (almost directly under the arm/rest or gear selector). I crawled underthere and all the rubber around the flex disk bolts was gone and there was a lot of play. I can't see the Center Bearing Carrier, but believe it must be shot from the descriptions I've read.

I hope I can get away without dropping the exhaust because I don't want to spend a grand on an exhaust for this car.

I may try replacing just the flex disc at first, if it is possible to do so without removing the drive shaft.