My mechanic just looked/fixed my 83 mercedes diesel...and he said there was sludge in my engine...not a good sign, said it was from the diesel fuel and I could put additives etc. to make it mo better...I have to go pick up my car shortly, so I assume he'll tell me what to do...and advice on this?
Thanks,
Lindajane

How many miles? What car? How often do you change your oil? With what kind? What kind of filter is used? Any records from the po? We just need a little more info.

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1999 SL500
1969 280SE
2023 Ram 1500
2007 Tiara 3200

If we take your post literally he is full of S***. The fuel does not get "inside" the engine (meaning under the valve cover). The fuel stays inside the fuel lines and the injection pump.

Maybe he was talking about the clear fuel filter?

If this person is talking about underneath the valve cover AND around the cam area, that is caused by not changing the oil often enough AND perhaps using the wrong kind of oil (cheap).

You'll need to be a bit more precise before we jump all over this person.

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84 300DT Puke Yellow. Totalled after 438,000
84 300DT Orient Red. 169,000 (actual mileage may vary)
2002 Explorer EB (wife's)

Hi,
I'm running out..but just got my car back...so expensive, jeeze...anyway he said there was alot of sludge in the gas tank, he cleaned the back or something (i forgot what he said)...He told me to get an additive to add to the tank. And if its a problem, eventually, way down the road, he said the engine would have to be pulled and cleaned $$$. He said the sludge was clogging things up, which contributed to the lack of power it had going up hills.....I'm moving down to LA, I really hope I find a good mechanic who is reasonably priced....
Any advice about the gas additive ie. which one, how often, etc., would be much appreciated; and any other advice you'd like to offer.
Thanks much,
lindajane

When you move to L.A., take your car to Mr. MB Motors.

Here is a nice thread on this shop:

http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/showthread.php?threadid=38339&highlight=enrique

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Paul S.

2001 E430, Bourdeaux Red, Oyster interior.
79,200 miles.

1973 280SE 4.5, 170,000 miles. 568 Signal Red, Black MB Tex. "The Red Baron".

Diesel Doctor is good stuff. Smythe European in San Jose doesn't carry it anymore but you can get it at www.************************ and possibly other places.

If there's a lot of sludge in the tank, it's best to drain and flush the tank and replace the strainer and filters. Pretty easy to drain and flush in a properly equiped shop.

I don't know where you'll be in L.A. but there's a shop with a great reputation in Encino run by a fellow named Enrique. Lots of posts about his good work.

Even with the worst sludge problem you'll only have to remove the injection pump and injectors. $1000 tops for a thorough cleaning and nowhere near that if your car still runs. Your tech's kid must need braces if he claims you'll need a new engine.

Sixto
95 S420
87 300SDL

I have never heard on this site or others that IF the algae gets really bad, you have to pull the IP. If an algae attack gets bad, the filters plug up before anything else AND the engine stops running. To get rid of algae (I have to assume its algae and not "sludge") you need a biocide, which is a liquid that kills algae. Very common on diesel marine engines. Biobor works. I use a product called BioCide made by Racor. Biocides are generally available at really good marine supply stores. (this Racor Biocide is so poisoneous they can't ship via UPS).

Algae will plug the 2 fuel filters. The small white (or clear) one before the round canister main filter. Keep plugging away (excuse pun) at using the biocide, keep several of the pre-filters in your trunk and a screwdriver to replace the filters before you drive down to LA. Plugged fuel filters feel like you are running out of power at the higher RPM's. Generally the engine will idle OK (not much fuel used ideling).

Like Sixto said, if the "attack" is really bad, you'll need to pull the fuel tank. Take it to a real good radiator shop and have it boiled out. Clean the fuel sending unit out with brake cleaner. I think DMorrison posted a fuel tank pull and clean post about 4 days ago.

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84 300DT Puke Yellow. Totalled after 438,000
84 300DT Orient Red. 169,000 (actual mileage may vary)
2002 Explorer EB (wife's)

Thanks..
so are you saying that I should replace the fuel filter before I go to LA (I got a new one today, I'm going down to la next week)....and is it the clear one with the red inside that I see when I lift the hood...do i unscrew both sides to install?....and shoud I change the fuel filter once I get to LA?
thank YOU VERY much, I wish you were my mechanic... All you guys
Lindajane

Lindajane,

Don't replace the fuel filters until you notice a definite loss of power. No sense replacing a filter that is only partially full of sludge. Get a few extras and be prepared to change along side the road after you put in the Biocide. You might have to have the fuel strainer in the tank cleaned also. Ask the mechanic that worked on your car if he cleaned the fuel strainer in the tank.

Change the inline filter first, and if that doesn't work to restore power, change the canister filter.

I would avoid the mechanic that said you would have to pull the engine and clean it because of algae in the fuel tank. He is absolutely nuts. The algae only plugs the fuel filters, doesn't harm the engine because it never gets into the engine. Even if the algae did get thru the filter and into the engine, the algea would go right out with the exhaust after bring burned.

But get the Biocide added to the fuel tank ASAP.

P E H

Lindajane -

That small clear plastic filter is the pre-filter that they are talking about. If algae builds up in the fuel tank, the plastic filter will usually catch it before it can get to the main fuel filter. If the pre-filter is clear enough, it probably doesn't need changing before you depart. But, buy a couple to take with you so that you can change them if they start to plug on the way to L.A. Be sure and take the necessary tools to do the job (phillips screwdriver as I recall, but take a look at the clamps).

Also do a search on this forum for algae. A lot of good info is available.

(My condolences on the move to L.A. No more Irish coffee at the Buena Vista or eggs benedict at the Alta Mira hotel on Sunday mornings...................)

Cheers,
Wes


PEH - You beat me to the punch....I can't believe it took me ten minutes to write that!

Lindajane,

You will need a 22mm wrench, either open end, box or socket to R&R the canister filter. I would advise not using a pliers or vise grip because you will chew up the nut on the top of the filter.

After you R&R the canister filter, pump the hand primer (on the side of the injection pump) vigorously 50 times to prime the filter. Engine should start quickly, if it doesn't start after 10 seconds pump primer another 50 times and repeat this process until starts. Each time, wait for the GP to heat before cranking engine.

P E H

PE Haiges,

This is assuming the hand pump works AFTER the canister filter is removed and the system is unprimed. I'd hate to be on the 5 South, summertime, and the hand pump won't reprime a system when all you tried to do was change a canister filter. That would suck......

Do you think she ought to see if the hand pump is any good BEFORE the trip?

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84 300DT Puke Yellow. Totalled after 438,000
84 300DT Orient Red. 169,000 (actual mileage may vary)
2002 Explorer EB (wife's)

Eric,

I might not be a bad ideal to test the hand primer pump, however, I have never seen one that didn't pump fuel, just ones that leak.

P E H

The new style pump is sure an improvement over the old style ,almost makes you want to bleed the system............

William Rogers........

Wlliam,

The only reason I don't like the new style primer pump is that I can't tell which filter is plugged like I can with the old pump.

P E H