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  #1  
Old 05-03-2004, 02:55 PM
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126 Trailering Arm Replacement (What else should be replaced??)

As soon as the right rear trailering arm and bushings arrive, I am going to take in the SDL and have them installed. The car has close to 300k miles on the clock and the springs and shocks have about 45k miles on them.

Is there anything else I should be ordering since that part of car will be apart when the above items are being replaced? The tires are wearing evenly and prior to the trailering arm rusting through, the car didn't make any bizarre noises.

Thanks!
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Sold: 1987 MB 300SDL, 320k miles, Astral Silver, Blue Leather, all books and records from day one.

Totalled: 1998 VW Jetta TDI, 488k miles, Classic Green/Gray Leather, loaded, E-Codes, "Slightly" modded, "Slightly" faster than stock, arrived 11/07/1997.

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  #2  
Old 05-03-2004, 04:20 PM
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how are your cv boots?
why are you replacing the trailing arm?
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  #3  
Old 05-03-2004, 04:35 PM
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All the rubber parts SEEM to be okay at first glance. Even the trailering arm bushings appear to be in good shape. Lots of suspension work (including the LEFT rear trailering arm) were replaced within the last 3 or 4 years.

The end of the shock pushed through its mount on the trailering arm. It looks to have rusted from the inside out.
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Lance Allison
Lance@LanceAllison.com

Sold: 1987 MB 300SDL, 320k miles, Astral Silver, Blue Leather, all books and records from day one.

Totalled: 1998 VW Jetta TDI, 488k miles, Classic Green/Gray Leather, loaded, E-Codes, "Slightly" modded, "Slightly" faster than stock, arrived 11/07/1997.

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  #4  
Old 05-03-2004, 04:41 PM
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The trailing arms usually rust from the inside out. Have the rear subframe bushings or differential mount been replaced or at least their condition checked? Those would be common replacement items at this age & miles.
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  #5  
Old 05-03-2004, 09:05 PM
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if they are the same setup as the 123s (maybe not) also replace the brake struts that go from the arms to the brake discs (or at least the bushings there)

When I replaced this part on my 123 I also wire brushed the arm (top and bottom ) and sprayed 3-4 coats of rustoleum on it so I wouldnt have to do this again.
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  #6  
Old 05-04-2004, 12:05 AM
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thats what i thought. that same thing happened to me. did u get the new one from a junk yard? i got mine for about $200
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  #7  
Old 05-04-2004, 02:27 PM
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I did get a used one from a California car. Hoepfully that one won't have rust issues. It was $125 shipped.

I also purchased new trailering arm bushings. I think they were around $30 shipped for the pair from FastLane (thanks, Phil!)

I was quoted $200 from a nearby shop...but I've heard the shop owners referred to as HACK AND SLASH! Not sure I'm comfortable with that. I got another quote from a known reputable shop in Pontiac, MI that I think I'm going to take the car to. Depending on whether or not I can drive the car that far.

At any rate, right now I'm waiting on the part. The bushings arrived Thursday and the trailering arm is due tomorrow.
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Lance Allison
Lance@LanceAllison.com

Sold: 1987 MB 300SDL, 320k miles, Astral Silver, Blue Leather, all books and records from day one.

Totalled: 1998 VW Jetta TDI, 488k miles, Classic Green/Gray Leather, loaded, E-Codes, "Slightly" modded, "Slightly" faster than stock, arrived 11/07/1997.

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  #8  
Old 05-05-2004, 12:10 AM
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do you have someplace to do the work yourself? its really easy once you get the bolts loose
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  #9  
Old 05-05-2004, 10:13 AM
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I do have a 3 car garage, but the lack of a lift makes a job like this tough. I wouldn't mind tackling it...but I really don't want to work with the car on jack stands.
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Lance Allison
Lance@LanceAllison.com

Sold: 1987 MB 300SDL, 320k miles, Astral Silver, Blue Leather, all books and records from day one.

Totalled: 1998 VW Jetta TDI, 488k miles, Classic Green/Gray Leather, loaded, E-Codes, "Slightly" modded, "Slightly" faster than stock, arrived 11/07/1997.

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  #10  
Old 05-05-2004, 05:27 PM
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i replaced mine with a floor jack and jackstands. it seems like it would be harder to do on a lift than to do on the ground. all you do is remove the springs,shocks,disconnect the axle,loosen the bolts for it, then you lower half of the subframe to change it. its a really easy job. i made a spring compressor so i could do my own work. the 6 ton jackstands lift it high enough to do the work.
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  #11  
Old 05-05-2004, 07:55 PM
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Quote:
Originally posted by kmaysob
why are you replacing the trailing arm?
Is this the same thing as the rear lower control arm?

Mine is going bad and I am told is rusting from the inside out and needs replacing.
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  #12  
Old 05-05-2004, 09:02 PM
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yes its the same thing
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  #13  
Old 05-06-2004, 08:39 AM
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What do you think I should budget for replacement cost at a good indy? I just do not have the space or facilities to do this type of repair.

Also, I think I need to replace a rear spring. This would be the time to do this, right?
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  #14  
Old 05-06-2004, 06:23 PM
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i dont know about the price since i never go to shops but i would buy the spring and have them replace it when they do the trailing arm.
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