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#46
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Installed this alternator in my 300SD (w126) and I am loving it. No more dimming headlights when turning on the AC, etc. (I have aftermarket headlamps).
The instal was nice and easy and I even threw a rebuild in the works before installing the alternator. System seems to be a lot happier. |
#47
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high output
heck i thought i was living high upgrading my 240 from 45a to 65.
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[SIGPIC] Diesel loving autocrossing grandpa Architect. 08 Dodge 3/4 ton with Cummins & six speed; I have had about 35 benzes. I have a 39 Studebaker Coupe Express pickup in which I have had installed a 617 turbo and a five speed manual.[SIGPIC] ..I also have a 427 Cobra replica with an aluminum chassis. |
#48
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After reading this thread I ordered this alternator and installed it with very little trouble to solve an obvious problem regarding the stereo install I had planned. I finally finished the stereo install (see 123 Install in Car Audio) and even with the system cranked up full I get no headlight dimming. I am running 4 six channel amps all bridged for 12x110 watts RMS. Thanks to all those that contribute to this forum.
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83 300CDTurbo 307,000 2005 Honda Element 266,000 56 Nash Ambassador Country Club Special 34,000(under restoration presently) http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/car-audio-multimedia/125099-123-install-extreme-dynamat.html |
#49
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welds
with a sound system that powerful i would be concerned about the welds in the unibody coming loose.... not to mention ear damage.
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[SIGPIC] Diesel loving autocrossing grandpa Architect. 08 Dodge 3/4 ton with Cummins & six speed; I have had about 35 benzes. I have a 39 Studebaker Coupe Express pickup in which I have had installed a 617 turbo and a five speed manual.[SIGPIC] ..I also have a 427 Cobra replica with an aluminum chassis. |
#50
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My alternator is full-fielding all the time now.
I want to replace it with a better unit. I know the 115A will work but will the more common 80A unit also work? |
#51
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Quote:
..................... |
#52
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Quote:
You may have to change the pulley from a single to a dual or the other way around, to suit whatever is on your engine, and you need to run a larger wire (or parallel two 10 ga wires) to the alternator for the alternator output if you want to keep voltage drop down. And you need to convert from a plug-in connector to individual wires that terminate in lugs. That shouldn't be hard for anyone experienced with electrical work.
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'95 E320 Wagon my favorite road car. '99 E300D wolf in sheeps body, '87 300D Sportline suspension, '79 300TD w/ 617.952 engine at 367,750 and counting! |
#53
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Quote:
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Saab-9000-Bosch-Alternator_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQcategoryZ33573QQitemZ7993393398QQrdZ1
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'95 E320 Wagon my favorite road car. '99 E300D wolf in sheeps body, '87 300D Sportline suspension, '79 300TD w/ 617.952 engine at 367,750 and counting! |
#54
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The 115Amp unit works great and you get system idle voltage floats around 14.2volts. When you rev it up the voltage does not change at all (since its already just loafing along).
With EVER ACCESSORY on, the system drops down to about 13.1-13.4 at idle (AC, High Beams, Radio, Fan, etc.) The w126 body uses a dual row belt on the engine and after I swapped over the pulley, put in new bearings, and brushes; the 115Amp works great. Installation was not too hard though you have to do some tricky buisness to get the case to clear the mounting stuff. Keep an eye on your battery if you do this upgrade as the higher voltage at all times likes to boil the battery if it gets hot out 80Amps would be good however as far as aftermarket stereo goes, I think 80amp would still be pushing it. 80amp is what these cars SHOULD have had on them out of the factory BTW I kept the stock wiring, offed the connector on the end, and just added two ring terminals. The stock wiring is PLENTY beefy on a w126 body to handle the 115amps. I think its dual 10 or 12awg. over to the junction point. |
#55
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How does the saab wiring go? Just one ground wire and one + output wire?
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#56
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Quote:
The Bosch AL129X has a field and power wire just like any other alternator. The field is a spade connector, the power is a stud, the ground is through the case |
#57
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I thought I read somewhere, on this forum, there were a post about using a Ford Voltage regulator and modify it somehow to get the alternator to deliver higher voltage and higher amperage.
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1992 300SD, 290K miles. |
#58
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Quote:
You can get adjustable regulators for most alternators however if you want to have good solid power and no problems (and want your brushes to last more than 15min) you should go with a unit designed for its rated amperage |
#59
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:-)
I found this link: http://members.1stconnect.com/anozira/SiteTops/energy/Alternator/alternator.htm
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1992 300SD, 290K miles. |
#60
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Does it mean if I replaced the diodes inside the Alternator with better spec diodes, and a higher output voltage regulator, I get more output power ?
My W140 has an alternator with this part number 009 154 3002 80 . I wouls assume this is either an 80A or a 90A alternator. Could someone confirm this ? Also, would something like this fit on my car ? http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&rd=1,1&item=7987197013
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1992 300SD, 290K miles. Last edited by Californian; 08-17-2005 at 04:12 AM. |
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