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Need fast oil cooler line advice!
Last night I was cleaning my car and I started talking with my dad about the things that I wanted to replace. I told him I wanted to replace the oil cooler lines in the next year or so because the crimp in the front by the oil cooler was badly rusted. Well we looked at it and he wire brushed it off, it looked really good. Well I guess the rust was keeping it from leaking, so now it's leaking like crazy. I'm leaving fist sized puddles everywhere I park, and I can watch it drip after I shut the car off. My question is Fastlane wants $351! for both of the lines. I was wondering if anyone has every had new hoses crimped on them? It looks pretty straight forward to change them, I will be ordering them today because my parents with there credit card will be leaving for a week. So hopefully I can change them next week, I really don't want to ignore it for a week or two because it is making a mess under the bumper.
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1999 SL500 1969 280SE 2023 Ram 1500 2007 Tiara 3200 |
#2
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with the right fittings any hydraulics or tractor shop can
make these for you. way less expensive. don |
#3
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Well my dad and I got them out. The oil cooler is shot, the lower cooler hose fitting took the aluminum threads with it. I had to cut up the hose fittings to; so there shot. I just oredered a new set of cooler lines and a new cooler from Fastlane $600. Oh well I need this car to get to work and school so I can't afford to look for used parts, sometimes I wonder why I sold my Toyota. Watch next month the radiator will blow. Or maybe the transmission, or injection pump. Anyone want to take bets. I'm really getting to the point where I want to give up.
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1999 SL500 1969 280SE 2023 Ram 1500 2007 Tiara 3200 |
#4
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Not to rub salt in the wound but... It would have been simpler to find a boneyard oil cooler. Stripped threads are fairly common and a good welding/machine shop could have fixed it for you. I would have opted for an aftermarket oil cooler and braided stainless lines for about 1/3rd the cost if you had to go new. $600 is silly-expensive for a simple cooler and lines. Sorry you got caught. RT
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When all else fails, vote from the rooftops! 84' Mercedes Benz 300D Anthracite/black, 171K 03' Volkswagen Jetta TDI blue/black, 93K 93' Chevrolet C2500HD ExCab 6.5TD, Two-tone blue, 252K |
#5
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I need to do the cooler lines on the SD as well. It seems that most shops that deal with hydraulic tubing and hose do not have the setup for the metric tubing on the M/B. Has anyone done this at one of these shops and, if so, what crimping dies did they use to fit to the metric tubing? They could easily replace the hose if they had the proper dies. Apparently this is more difficult than it seems for them.
Also, what is the deal with the braided stainless lines. Has anyone replaced the factory lines with direct replacement braided stainless for a reasonable cost? |
#6
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Quote:
In the case of trying to salvage the steel tubing, with attached aluminum fittings, I take it that this is unlikely to be successful due to the age of the fittings? This seems to indicate that replacement of the entire hose and steel tubing is preferred? |
#7
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oil cooler lines
Unless you are re-furbishing a "Classic" , what matter Metric/
S.A.E. diameter lines : any Hydraulic shop worth it's salt can "graft" fittings onto any line! |
#8
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I got a good used oil cooler for my first 126 SD from Sun Valley for 50 dollars. Not the most friendly job replaceing the lines though. New oil cooler lines for 81 SD are 49 and 56 dollars from FastLane...........
William Rogers........... |
#9
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Re: oil cooler lines
Quote:
I thought the issue was with trying to "graft" new hose onto the existing tubes. This process is not as automatic as it sounds because the hydraulic shop needs to have the proper metric crimping dies, as it was explained to me. Was it the thought to remove the fittings and get the shop to make what is essentially a hose with two pipe nipples with the existing fittings on the ends? Might have clearance problems with the larger hose diameter in certain areas (that previously had the tube). |
#10
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dieseldiehard no, I have just done the delivery valve seals. When I get the IP rebuilt this summer to try to fix a really bad skipping problem, the shop will do all of the seals. I was thinking about getting the lines made up but, both of the fittings on the oil cooler were shot, they pretty much fell right apart! I also don't have the time to hunt for used parts, or hunt down a shop that "might" be able to fix the cooler. But from my experience the second you say Mercedes no one wants to get involved. Between working 6 days a week and school I can't go part hunting right now. I need this car to be back online this week! Hopefully fastlane will get me the parts asap. One of the pitfalls of owning a 603 is parts cost more, they built less of them so things are going to be a little more expensive.
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1999 SL500 1969 280SE 2023 Ram 1500 2007 Tiara 3200 |
#11
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quote:
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Originally posted by dieseldiehard I'VE NEVER SEEN THE BRAIDED HOSES USED ON OIL COOLER LINES Open ANY hotrod oriented mag and you will find braided hoses used for virtually anything and everything. Aeroquip, Russell, Earl's, etc. all make auto oriented stuff or you can go to an industrial supplier like Grainger, McMaster-Carr or any power transfer/hydraulic supplier for parts. Regarding adapting the MB hoses. Yes, your best bet is to remove the old hoses, cut off the old ends and have a welding shop weld on the new AN- or Parker style adaptors. Not just any welding shop, you need to find one that does high-end technical welding or welds on surgical equipment. A shop that works on dump trucks and backhoes is not what you want. I would recommend Parker pushloc type fittings and hose, never seen one fail. The key here is to bring the cut-off MB hoses with you to the hose shop and then the welder and tell them what you need. This is not a difficult project. 4 simple welds, 4 pushloc fittings and 6-7 feet of hose. Someone here on this board already has done this and it worked fine. It was not my intention to start a hose war, just to show there is an alternative to spending $600. Granted you need to find the time, take a 1/2 or even a full day out of work or school. Now if you earn $1000/day, taking the day off doesn't make sense. However if you earn $100 a day, spending some time and @$200 on industrial parts to perform a perfectly acceptable repair makes sense. If you live in a remote area, don't have the time, etc. then its a moot point anyway. Of course you have to remember that a repair like this although functional and has been performed on many other vehicles is simply unfit for use on a MB since you must use nothing put MB parts so pry open your wallet as this is the way God and some engineer named Helmut intended it. RT
__________________
When all else fails, vote from the rooftops! 84' Mercedes Benz 300D Anthracite/black, 171K 03' Volkswagen Jetta TDI blue/black, 93K 93' Chevrolet C2500HD ExCab 6.5TD, Two-tone blue, 252K |
#12
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I just replaced the lines on my 300D. I took the old lines to a hydraulic shop, told them how long I wanted the hoses (I slightly rerouted the lines to make it easier to get them back in), had them cut the steel ends off, and they put fitting on the old ends I had and made 5/8 inch braded hydraulic hoses that screw onto the fittings. Still not real easy to get back in but a lot easier than factory lines since they bend. I have no leaks and the hoses will take a lot more of a beating than the originals and still be ok. They charged me $80 for both, an hour labor plus fittings and hose.
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1985 300D Turbo ~225k 2000 F350 (Powerstroke) 4X4, SWB, CC, SRW, 6spd ~148k 1999 International 4900, DT466e (250hp/660 ft/lbs), Allison MD3060 ~73k |
#13
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"If anyone knows other lessons I need to learn, please tell me. I'm tired of learning them the hard way". by JerryBro The Glow Plug Wait: This waiting period is a moment of silence to pay honor to Rudolph Diesel. The longer you own your diesel the more honor you will give him". by SD Blue My normal daily life; either SNAFUed- Situation Normal... All Fouled Up, or FUBARed- Fouled Up Beyond All Repair 62 UNIMOG Camper w/617 Turbo, 85 300SD daily driver- both powered by blended UCO fuels |
#14
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for the SD (617). Anybody know if these are smooth hose or not? Seems like too much trouble to go to a hydraulic shop, weld on new fittings, and spend $80., unless you are getting a premium product when compared to the complete purchased item. |
#15
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coachgeo,
I put the lower hose back in it's original spot and the upper hose I believe I put over the ac compressor and it runs above the engine mount too. I get a lot more room between the hose and the pulley/belt of for the power steering (the origin of the problem with my lines). I left about 4-5 inches of the steel line on each end to put the hose fittings on and then had 36" of hose for both, if I did it again I would use 40" of hose (any extra can easily be zip-tied in a safe place to take up the slack). You could probably get a real close measurement of how long and where to run the hoses if you got a piece of waterhose and ran it where you wanted it and then measured how long it needed to be...... also need to take the fittings on the end of the hose into account because they don't bend. I checked the prices on Fastlane before I did this and it was cheaper to do this by about $40 plus I was in a hurry and this was faster (I could do it that weekend). In my opinion my setup is slightly better than original but both are overkill. The bonus of buying OEM lines is that you know they'll fit in there for sure.... somehow.
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1985 300D Turbo ~225k 2000 F350 (Powerstroke) 4X4, SWB, CC, SRW, 6spd ~148k 1999 International 4900, DT466e (250hp/660 ft/lbs), Allison MD3060 ~73k |
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