Anybody have the problem of thier doors not closing all the way when you shut them on 123 models? Sometimes I even have to close it 3-4 times.

Do I have to replace the whole door latch system, or is there an adjustment?

Thanks all

Todd

__________________
1980 300TD, SOLD
1984 300TD, 275K
1999 C230 K Black & Tan
2013 C250 Black
1974 CJ5 Red
You might faint from the fight, but you're gonna find it. Every challenge could have paradise behind it. -John Popper-

My 115 was doing the same thing, sometimes the latch wouldn't hold the door shut at all. A bit of lube on the mechanism and the door shuts easily every time.

Eric

71 220D
81 300D

Just don't build them like they used to!!!

Well the rest of the doors close okay, just the driver door. I've put some shoulder into it and It just pops open about a half inch. You know it latches but doesn't close.

I'm thinking the spring on the door latch itself. Maybe get one used and give it a go. By the way what is that black rubber bumper looking thing with the hole in it by the door latch?

Todd

__________________
1980 300TD, SOLD
1984 300TD, 275K
1999 C230 K Black & Tan
2013 C250 Black
1974 CJ5 Red
You might faint from the fight, but you're gonna find it. Every challenge could have paradise behind it. -John Popper-

No, I believe it is the piece actually on the door. I'm about to go to lunch, I'll take a look at mine and send a more accurate descprition of what I did. Your door sounds very similar to what mine was doing. . . especially on cold days.

Use some W40 or better some silicone and it will close fine again. To close the door I had to slam it up 10 times, after some W40 no problem anymore.

__________________
1979 Black on Black, 300CD (sold), 1990 Black 300SE, Silver 1989 Volvo 780, 1988 300CE (vanished by the hands of a girlfriend), 1992 300CE (Rescue).

I'll be away from the comp. for a while too. I'll check back later. Thanks for the help.

Todd

__________________
1980 300TD, SOLD
1984 300TD, 275K
1999 C230 K Black & Tan
2013 C250 Black
1974 CJ5 Red
You might faint from the fight, but you're gonna find it. Every challenge could have paradise behind it. -John Popper-

My 123 is awaiting an engine at home, so I can't compare it but in the 115 on the door there are two pieces: a cone shaped piece that mates with the receiver on the body, and what I'm gonna call the mechanism (note the use of precise automotive mechanic vocabulary!). The mechanism looks like a metal disc with a notch out of it. This is the piece that I dropped some lubricant on and it fixed the problem.

I have that issue and I was attributing it to vacuum problems.

__________________
Think Alternative Energy!
300CD '80 (now gone but not forgotten...)

I had a similar prob with my 123 sedan. The rubber piece in the door latch had started to fall apart. Couldn't find anywhere just the little piece to fix that and ended up buying the whole thing. Door still needs a push to close, but cloes solidly first time now.

You probably have a broken little piece of hard plastic or rubber under the door latch mechanism on the pillar.... I have had several of these.... but have not found and replacements available ... so I changed out the entire mechanism .. which is pretty easy to do .... even though you will probably find one or more of the flush socket head screws stuck beyond your allen head wrenches capacity to remove it...
But it is pretty easy to drill them out with the proper size drill bit because it is centered initially by the allenhead hole... I will try to find and measure the bit I used...
The nice thing is that the mechanism is held from the rear by two plates which are tapped... I think they are horizontally paired...
and when you have drilled far enough that you have taken the load from between the chamfered area on the screw and the threads it just unwinds with almost no pressure.... which usually means it just screws itself into the body cavity area and drops off the drill bit...
So the trick is to not do both horizontally matched holes at the same time without providing a replacement screw....so your backing plate does not drop inside where the screw drops ( most backing plates are held in place , but be aware as you proceed that they might have been dealt with before)....
In otherwords I put a junkyard mechanism on mine to correct the problem. Film at 11.
THis info is only in the event your screws won't come out with your allen wrench.. I have always had at least one per mechanism with would not.... did not want you to give up due to the flush screw looking impossible to deal with....

Here is the drill bit turned backwards and put into the head of the screw I had to drill out....
It is shown ( out of focus) next to the same size bolt which you are dealing with... so the trick is to just drill off the head of this tapered socket head screw to relieve the pressure.

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here is the loosely held tapped backing plate ( clearly moved a little from when it was holding the mechanism centered in the hole)

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Plan ahead and so you don't end up like this.... drill shavings are not easy to get out of carpet...

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Do you know what color your interior is called? Or do you know a color number code for the interior? I have that same color interior (kind of like a ruddy brown) with the carpet faded to an orangey-yellow color, except where the carpet has been covered up, where it's the same color as the trim, seats, etc.

I've looked at carpet and MB tex samples online but I still can't see a color that I'm absolutely sure is mine. Also, do you have an ivory exterior too? TIA!

I do not know the official names.. but my code plates are intact and I could look at them....
Despite my screen name... I am just glad I have the MBTex... this is really durable stuff... leather is not going to last in as good a shape for as long as this stuff...
I actually refer to my car colors as ' blah and blah'.... LOL not very showy..... but nicely conservative.... but I long for " Snowberry White " on the outside.... an early 1980's MG color....