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  #1  
Old 05-20-2004, 03:32 PM
Coming back from burnout
 
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Dont forget a Transmission flush as regualr maintenance...

Hi just a note, recently I flushed my Auto Transmission on my 300D. The last two years I simply changed the filter and drained the ATF. This year i did a full 16 quart flush. Granted I am not the original owner of this car,, but I was aghast at what I missed the two previous years..the fluid that came out certainly was more black than red.....I hope doing this saves some other owner of a 300K 300D like me a transmission rebuild...

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  #2  
Old 05-20-2004, 03:43 PM
boneheaddoctor's Avatar
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good idea when you are not aware of when it was last done, assuming your fluid doesn't smell burned in which case you are better off leaving it the way it is.
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  #3  
Old 05-20-2004, 04:55 PM
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DIY project or KWIK-LUBE

Ok, I am familiar with the machines that will flush an auto-tranny like at Kwik-Lube for about $80.00, but did you do the flush as a DIY project and if so, how.

Can you detach both cooler lines and put the out-line in an empty bucket and the in-line in a full bucket of new ATF and let the tranny pump do the flush?
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  #4  
Old 05-20-2004, 05:39 PM
LarryBible
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NOTE!!!!!!! PAY CLOSE ATTENTION TO BONEHEADDOCTOR ON THIS!!!!!!!!!!!!

If you have burnt fluid, the only thing allowing the clutches to hold is the crud that is on them. When you flush a transmission in which the fluid smells burnt, you stand a BIG chance that the car will not back out of the stall. I've seen it happen.

The BEST way to "flush" is to simply change the fluid and filter regularly. Carrameows transmission obviously was not in a degraded state so he got by with it.

I have seen, and even done it myself, folks have trouble with an a/t and decide it's then time to change fluid and filter or flush. At that point it is often too late.

If you insist on driving a one legged transmission, care for it properly. Personally this is one of the MANY reasons that I prefer to mix the gears for myself.

Good luck,
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  #5  
Old 05-20-2004, 08:03 PM
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rockin wagin, I have flushed my tranny by disconnecting the driver side line to rad and place it in 5 gallon pail, then start car and put new at fluid into dip stick tube, I used a hand pump as it took a lot of atf to clear all the old atf out. After, I cut into the line between the connection at the flex line and about 6 inches back towards tranny and installed a inline mag. filter that I change every 10,xxx miles, presto. no more tranny flushes. steve 83 sd
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  #6  
Old 05-20-2004, 10:14 PM
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Quote:
Originally posted by LarryBible
Personally this is one of the MANY reasons that I prefer to mix the gears for myself.
My moto when I used to drive a stick,"If you can't find it, GRIND IT!"
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  #7  
Old 05-20-2004, 10:17 PM
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Here is the procedure but you know what, listen to Larry first, i think he is more knowlegeable about me. Dont do this unless you are willing to chance it..i am feeling a little hesitant to post this because i dont want to be responsible for messing some guys car up... everyone has different feelings about how they want their car to run, i am kind of an idiot and i want it brand new and ready to drive from new jersey to south america, my eccentric feeling is that if my tansmission was held together by crud, i would have it out the next day and would be rebuilding it..again please listen to larry's sage advice

PROCEDURE
Obtain a clear vinyl or plastic tube (3/8 inch I.D.) about five feet long and three gallon milk jugs, calibrated with a permanent marker in quarts. Have at least your tranny capacity (approx 9 qts.) in new fluid on hand. 3/8 is a tight fit (heat it in water to get it on); 1/2 inch I.D. will require a clamp.
Drain all the oil from the transmission drain pan (2-3.5 qts depending on model).
Refill 2 qts into the filler tube.
Disconnect the transmission cooler return line. Penetrating oil can help loosen threads.
Connect the clear plastic hose to the cooler return line by pressing it on the threads. Fish it through over or through the grill and into to a gallon milk jug on the ground.
Turn on the engine. Fluid will start draining out of the tube into the jug. The fluid does not drain out all that fast - ~25 seconds for 2 qts - and stops when you stop the engine.
Watch the fill rate on the side of the jug and have a friend refill at the same rate into the filler tube. [Editor's Note: have a friend engage parking brake, apply the main brake, and place the transmission in "drive" for a minute to flush out other parts of the valve body and torque converter.]
After approximately nine quarts, you will notice fresh fluid flowing out of the hose. Stop here.
Button things up (do not overtighten the cooler line fitting), check final level, check for leaks, etc.
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  #8  
Old 05-20-2004, 11:01 PM
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Steve, Carrameow, I use this method for my other cars, where dropping the pan only drains 3-4 qts from a 12 qt capacity transmission. But is it really necessary for MB transmissions? I understand that by opening the drain plugs on the pan and torque converter you can remove about 7 qts of transmission fluid, which is some 80-90% of the fluid capacity. This is assuming that the transmissions on your models also have a drain plug for the torque converter.
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  #9  
Old 05-21-2004, 08:58 AM
LarryBible
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If you are only dropping the pan when you drain your A/T you are not doing it right. There are drain plugs on the torque converter and an access hole in the bottom of the bell housing portion to access them.

Drain the pan and also, turn the engine with a socket and ratchet at the harmonic balancer until one of the torque converter drain plugs is accessible through the bell housing access hole. Remove the drain plug and drain it as well.

By draining both the pan AND torque converter, you will drain 99% of the fluid from the entire a/t.

Carrameow,

I was not criticizing you or your method. I very much respect your thoroughness in car maintenance. I was only warning people that doing this to an a/t with burnt fluid may very well have some bad consequences.

You're doing your part to keep these great old machines on the road. Good job!

Have a great day,
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  #10  
Old 05-21-2004, 10:01 AM
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While it is true that more black came out with the ATF by doing a flush, I never recommend it or do it.

It takes one spec of dirt to cause a spool valve to stick and cause a problem such as poor or no clutch engagement.. Then the slipping clutches burn and its down hill from there.

It is okay to let what ever accumalate in crevices where they do no harm..

Mercedes torque converters can be drained as well making for a better than usual ATF and filter maintenance.
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  #11  
Old 05-21-2004, 11:18 AM
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I was depositing some anti-freeze and oil at a local Ez-Lube the other day. Just for giggles I asked how much they charge to "flush" an A/T.

NOTE TO SELF: They don't unbolt the pan and change the filter!! They only flush.

If you are going to do a proper A/T fluid change, it also involves changing the filter.

TIP: Once you have the filter out, and the A/T back together cut the old filter in half with a pair of snips and look inside the filter to review the contents.
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  #12  
Old 05-21-2004, 11:59 AM
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manual transmissions

Damn I love manual transmissions-just one less thing to worry about.
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  #13  
Old 05-21-2004, 01:04 PM
LarryBible
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Boston Benz,

I'm totally with you. My 240D went over half million miles with two clutch replacements and the transmission has still never been taken apart.

Not only are the a/t's a high maintenance item, but I'm one of the nuts who totally enjoys shifting for myself. Heavy traffic is all the better. I get to shift more.

Have a great day,
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  #14  
Old 05-21-2004, 02:42 PM
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Know what you mean, would love a 5-speed in my W116 300SD.

A 300D swap would be a piece of cake compaired to doing this one.
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Proud owner of ....
1971 280SE W108
1979 300SD W116
1983 300D W123
1975 Ironhead Sportster chopper
1987 GMC 3/4 ton 4X4 Diesel
1989 Honda Civic (Heavily modified)
---------------------
Section 609 MVAC Certified
---------------------
"He who fights with monsters might take care lest he thereby become a monster. And if you gaze for long into an abyss, the abyss gazes also into you." - Friedrich Nietzsche
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  #15  
Old 05-21-2004, 03:45 PM
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My automatic will shift to 4th gear by 25 MPH if I drive light footed like I have been doing the last week. It got me the best MPG's I've ever gotten since buying the car by driving this way (29.3 MPG). Would a fluid change help me out here or is there a more serious problem lurking here? The bowden cable is adusted correctly.

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