I was afraid of a problem getting the propane stuff. I lucked out and got the stuff from my buddy who works for a big Propane company. I will find out where they get the stuff from and see if I can get some to distribute to anyone who needs it here. Mike

my understanding is you can get the needed parts over the counter at any large LP place. It is all orderable. The Hobbs switch you can get through Napa etc.

I have a slightly different system in parts waiting to be installed. The concept is simular to Westkill's though. I bought it off a guy on Ebay. He gave me a special deal though. I plan to be injecting the LP straight into the intake manifold. Just after the Turbo port to ensure better mixing. I will also have the ability to inject water, alcohol or a combination of the two.

Ive been trying to fully understand the way to measure the amount of LP to inject. THANKS WESTKILL! The plans I got with my parts were confusing me. and this thread has really cleared up a lot for me. Course I confuse easy LOL.

Hi, cool project, I am just starting to read about SVO and I think I am headed that way. I am on the Gulf Coast and some of what I have read makes it seem like I can filter some oil and dump it in the tank with no modifications (300D normally aspirated).

Does your propane only kick in when your foot is to the floor or does the rush of power catch you by surprise sometimes?

You can set the propane to inject whenever you want. I have mine that when I hit about 3lbs boost, it bleeds in, about half throttle I guess. Sometimes it does catch me by suprise though. When your in the stop and go traffic, you build up boost then back off etc. , at these times I just shut the system off. No sense wasting the gas. Mike

Where on the gulf coast? Do you mean the Gulf coast of FL. ?

Ok, I can find the Hobbs switch and I can come up with the gauges, etc. to attach to the tank. But I haven't found a source fore the fuel lock solenoid. Can you provide the manufacturer's name on that and I will track it down. thanks.

We are in Alabama, usually only here for a few months at a time, now since November.

I just got this car and as soon as I get it running as good as it will run on diesel, I will start playing with mixing in some WVO/SVO. I am learning to test for problems and buying some new tools. Soon I will be ready to go veg.

Ever heard of a Propane start-up system for help on cold starts? Seems like it could be an alternative to a two-tank system here in the south. Also could be used as a limp-home system if fuel system problems occur.

Cool thread and lots of great info! I’ve often toyed with the idea of propane. Hey Westkill, I know you’re getting bombarded with questions but as a guy that’s been there, how do you think propane would work with a normally aspirated engine? I’ve got a 2.4 diesel in my old Land Rover and wouldn’t mind a bit more power. As I don’t get any boost pressure, I would have to operate it manually of course. Would you assume a reasonable power benefit?

Thanks

Jim

P.S. Here’s a picture from Mosquito Pass in Colorado.

http://roxs.us/bioimages/jimmos.jpg

Jim,

The guy I got my kit pieces from never used LP inject on turbo car; only NA. He loves it enough that he decided to build a kit to sell. He still drives his NA cars that are injected. An old Datsun Maxima and a ford truck.

I agree with what coach said. I think propane will provide a great power assist in any diesel. As far as injecting it, you would have to do it manually. The only time I found it won't run on propane is at idle. Use a spring loaded toggle and only hit it (hold it on) when you need it. Just a thought.... Mike

Thats my plan. I purchased from a good mom and pop hardware store switches designed for power saws. These have a lock mechanisim that must be pressed before you can throw the switch. I bought this type so me or no one else can accidently hit the LP booste. I was thinking of attaching it to the gear shift. Its a trigger. You push to ulock with your thumb then you squeeze the trigger.

the kit parts I got including switches that you mount somewhere on the gas pedal assembly simular to an electric/mechanical passing gear switch on the pedal arm. His intent was that when you punch the fuel pedal it would trigger booste.

Last I talked to him he had just installed two such switches on the pedal and two inject systems in his; new to him, old diesel truck. First switch comes on sooner in the path of the pedal for smallll boost and then a second one for more LP when he punched the throttle to the floor. On a long trip pulling a boat he was very satisfied with the results.

Why not use the Transmission "kick-down" switch to operate an electric valve for the propane. It will only inject when your foot is on the floor. Is that when you need the power, or what?

You can always use the power antenna switch for this. Many W123's no longer have functioning power antennas anyway so it can be used for something useful again.;)

The power antenna was controlled by the Becker radio on my W123 300D.

If the Rear window demister is inoperative you could use that switch, but I still vote for the kickdown switch. It would be effectively a "seamless" integration with the vehicle, giving power boost only when you need it.

IMHO the kick down for the tranny may not be the right place. I dont think you want the tranny kicking down at the same time new oummph of LP is sent to the engine. I would think you want the boost to occure minutely BEFORE the tranny kick down. That's just a poorly educated guess though.

My 300D has a seperate antena swithc. My antena actually works too. Well sorta. It comes 1/2 way down. Not sure if it is suppose to come all the way down.