Seeing those delivery lines sitting like that, on that floor, gives me the willies! Lesson One: Cleanliness is EVERYTHING when it comes to diesel fuel delivery.

However, I doubt that you have debris plugging the lines since the car runs out ok at speed. If there was a blockage, you would experience rough running at any/all speeds.

I have rcently discovered that the condition of the motor mounts in these vehicles is critical. Diesels are intrinsically rough runners at idle and I suspect that what you have is one or all of the following: a bad front engine mount; a bad engine shock or a bad engine shock mount.

Check out this thread:
Vibration assistance needed - Manual Transmission Related?

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Never a dull moment at Berry Hill Farm.

damn leo, you are good cause I do hear a knocking coming from the motor mount located next to the front passanger wheel.

I will definitely look into changing the motor mount.

I don't really see how a motor mount would make the engine sputter at idle ....

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Audi TT

Check your engine shock while you are at it. its likely worn out too.

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Proud owner of ....
1971 280SE W108
1979 300SD W116
1983 300D W123
1975 Ironhead Sportster chopper
1987 GMC 3/4 ton 4X4 Diesel
1989 Honda Civic (Heavily modified)
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Section 609 MVAC Certified
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"He who fights with monsters might take care lest he thereby become a monster. And if you gaze for long into an abyss, the abyss gazes also into you." - Friedrich Nietzsche

These engines simply rock and roll at idle; jeez, just look at all of the engineering that has gone into the engine suspension.

I'm guessing here but I think that idling with no load, they don't make enough heat for good, solid ignition. Consequently they shake.

Just for grins, cycle your glow 3 or 4 times before you start the engine next time. I'll bet you it will idle smooth until the glow plugs and precombustion chambers cool off...say 10 to 15 seconds of run time.

Do it and report back.

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Never a dull moment at Berry Hill Farm.

PROBLEM FOUND:

I finally changed my braided fuel line hoses since they were leaking a little bit. I think that air might have been getting in or escaping and that is what was causing rough idle. As soon as I changed them the engine smoothed out.

Thanks for all the help...

Next project: Motor Mounts

Thank You

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Audi TT

kamil,
Exactly which braided lines did you replace?

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Never a dull moment at Berry Hill Farm.

billg,

Once the injector lines are cracked open there is practically no pressure. It takes resistance to create pressure. The resistance in the fuel injection system is the injector not opening until the pressure buillds up enough to unseat the injector.

Once you unscrew the injector line nut, you remove all the resistance and practically no pressure is created.

Electrical circuits work the same way. If you have no resistance
(short circuit) you will have no voltage (pressure).

P E H

the ones going from injector to injector. the old ones were able to just slip on the nipple without hesitation and leaked all over. The new ones on the other hand, took forever to install since they were so tight and refused to go on the nipple.




I would suggest people change these things just for the heck of it; especially since it only costs like a 1.50 for all the lines.

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Audi TT

Sounds to me like you didn't use metric hose.




Now I know you didn't use metric hose. Better keep an eye on those ends that are slipped over the barbed nipples; they'll probably split before too long.

Also, I still cannot figure out why your engine was missing out. The overflow lines always have pressure on them when the engine is running. The fuel should only run out of them, not suck air in.

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Never a dull moment at Berry Hill Farm.

the hose was metric and I even think that it was OEM. the old hoses were soggy on the inside where the rubber hose is so they just basically wore out over time.

I also cannot figure out why the enigne runs 100x better since I changed those. My father told that air was getting in the injectors and that is what was causing it. I, for example, have no clue as to why the enigne runs better.

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Audi TT

I have one more question....

I have another thread going titled "MOTOR MOUNTS" and I asked in there which parts would I need to change the mounts.
I am looking into changing the trans mount, motor mounts, some type of shock and some type of dampener but I have no idea if i should do this all at once or where the shock and dampener are located.

thanks

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Audi TT

Kamill,
The engine mounts are under the aluminum outriggers at the lower part of the block (around cylinder #2).
On my NA 300D, the shock absorbers (dampeners) were bolted thru a plate on the outrigger and bolted to the front suspension cross member.
If you are going to replace the engine mounts and Trans mount, I would replace the shocks at that time and do the whole job at that time.
Not much point getting all black and only doing half the job, is it?

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Tony from West Oz.
Fatmobile 3 84 300D 295kkm Silver grey/Blue int. 2 tank WVO - Recipient of TurboDesel engine.
Josephine '82 300D 390kkm White/Palamino int.
Elizabeth '81 280E, sporting a '79 300D engine.
Lucille '87 W124 300D non-turbo 6 cylinder OM603, Pearl Grey with light grey interior


Various parts cars including 280E, 230C & 300D in various states of disassembly.

$1.50 for enough METRIC hose to do the overflows?

WOW! Where can I buy this?

The last two times I've purchased the stuff (once at the OEM wholesaler where I have a wholesale account and onse at a local indy foreign parts house) it has cost me something like $6-$8 for enough to do ONE car.

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Never a dull moment at Berry Hill Farm.