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#16
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Here's the recent results from my 1984 300D. The soot load has been rather high, but everything else seems to be improving. Current fill is M-1 15W-50, and may use D-1 next time:
http://www.meimann.com/docs/mercedes/oil_analysis_84s.pdf |
#17
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Gixxer, Hard to read, because your report reads sideways.
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'91 300D 2.5 Turbo 330K '00 VW TDI Golf, 190K '67 BMW R50/2 '73 Norton Commando Interstate |
#18
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wow... those iron readings are high. dont know why
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Current Diesels: 1981 240D (73K) 1982 300CD (169k) 1985 190D (169k) 1991 350SD (113k) 1991 350SD (206k) 1991 300D (228k) 1993 300SD (291k) 1993 300D 2.5T (338k) 1996 Dodge Ram CTD (442k) 1996 Dodge Ram CTD (265k) Past Diesels: 1983 300D (228K) 1985 300D (233K) |
#19
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JHZR2, The reason I asked about fuel addatives was, my 300D showed potassium at about 20 the last 2 times, but has not shown any water or antifreeze. The oil analysis folks (Blackstone) seem to think it was coming from the Redline DFC. I stopped using it, and will be curious to see how the K looks next time.
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Palangi 2004 C240 Wagon 203.261 Baby Benz 2008 ML320 CDI Highway Cruiser 2006 Toyota Prius, Saving the Planet @ 48 mpg 2000 F-150, Destroying the Planet @ 20 mpg TRUMP .......... WHITEHOUSE HILLARY .........JAILHOUSE BERNIE .......... NUTHOUSE 0BAMA .......... OUTHOUSE |
#20
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very interesting. My truck showed high K and Na on the first analysis I did. GM has had problems with bad intake manifold gaskets, and coolant slowly dribbling into the oil. Ive thought it was that, and havent found anything when taking it to my really good dealer, even from pressure testing, etc.
Maybe its from a fuel additive... Ill have to see. Thanks for the input! JMH
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Current Diesels: 1981 240D (73K) 1982 300CD (169k) 1985 190D (169k) 1991 350SD (113k) 1991 350SD (206k) 1991 300D (228k) 1993 300SD (291k) 1993 300D 2.5T (338k) 1996 Dodge Ram CTD (442k) 1996 Dodge Ram CTD (265k) Past Diesels: 1983 300D (228K) 1985 300D (233K) |
#21
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Quote:
Dont get me wrong, I too am a big fan of synthetic oil and have always been a Mobil-I fan, in fact my trannies and diffs only carry that stuff and nothing else. Sadly out here in India, Delvac-I costs $12 a liter whereas the Delo-400 costs $3 a liter. Considering that, Delo-400 is really good choice for people like us. |
#22
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Thanks for your post, thats really neat to hear about the grueling conditions that these engines and that oil can withstand.
Believe me, I gave delo a try. In older E30 BMWs, Ive seen absolutely remarkable wear rates using it. but as I said earlier, its an MPG thing. my mpg just wasnt as good using delo as when using other conventional oils (pennzoil, delvac 1300). Thats just what I found. I am actually considering switching my BMW 318i delo 400, as the base oil is pretty good adn I think itd bea good match. The problem overall is, if you want to pick one oil and stick with it, it really needs to be a 5w-40 in either the bmw or MB, because a 15w- oil just gets too thick when it stays below 30F all the time.Thats not to say Ive ever had oil related starting issues, but you can definitely feel the difference in the way the car cranks and runs for the first few seconds. Ill never argue that delo, delvac 1300 or pennzoil long life are excellent oils - they certainly are. But I like the reassurance, cold flow and good results with wear rates and MPG that I get with delvac 1. JMH
__________________
Current Diesels: 1981 240D (73K) 1982 300CD (169k) 1985 190D (169k) 1991 350SD (113k) 1991 350SD (206k) 1991 300D (228k) 1993 300SD (291k) 1993 300D 2.5T (338k) 1996 Dodge Ram CTD (442k) 1996 Dodge Ram CTD (265k) Past Diesels: 1983 300D (228K) 1985 300D (233K) |
#23
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Fully agree with the cold temp issue and 15W-40 oils, I too get poor mileage during winters when the temps are down to 0c or less but in my case, I have no choice but to grin and bear it.
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#24
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I have little knowledge about your trade and have open ears! I do understand that a bicyle chain does not realize temperature variant, or scrubers that initiate longevity.
Eleven years ago, upon a cross country trip in my 86 G-20 Chevy van, with 305 CI, I bought new, and at 86K, somewhere in the deserts of south eastern California, having been using Slik-50, all my hydrualic lifters started to become dry and valve noise was loude until, a road side oil change, with regular everyday oil, did it return to normal. I heard later that my oil filter probably got maxed from the clogging from the PTFE, or, teflon, and caused a drop in oil pressure from a prolonged period of operation. I drove on that trip appro. 500 mi per day. No harm came, but it scared me. |
#25
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One of the reasons Slick-50 is a definite No-No in engines specialy when you have the likes of AMSOIL, MOBIL-I, Delo etc. why go through the un-neccesary risk.
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#26
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Quote:
Or just print it out! |
#27
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Gottit.
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'91 300D 2.5 Turbo 330K '00 VW TDI Golf, 190K '67 BMW R50/2 '73 Norton Commando Interstate |
#28
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Quote:
When I bought my Dodge, I immediately put it on Rotella after it's first oil change. When I started my 50 mile commutes, I tried different change intervals before settling on 5,000 miles. I now have 104,500 miles on this truck, and blowby is so minimal, that it doesn't drip oil from the breather tube onto the pavement after being run, and I can start it stone cold below freezing without waiting for the "wait to start" light to shut off. It'll fire off within the second revolution every start. I've been able to easily pour Rotella oil even below zero. Rotella has proven to me to be well up to the task of severe service. |
#29
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well, my comments are based upon the fact that cold flow performance of rotella has historically been inferior to that of the other HDEOs (recently that has changed, and the pour point, for example of rotella is better than that of delo 400, and the same as rotella synthetic). Pour point isnt the tell all criteria for a good oil base, but it can give some insight; actual viscosity at certain temps tell all.
However, analysis has shown that the additive package of rotella is historically a bit weaker. Now what does that mean? Not too much, i suppose; Ive seen plenty of really great analyses with very low wear rates from supposedly inferior or common oils, and plenty of great results where dino oils trend better than synthetics. But all in all, given the price vs additive package, TBN, low temp performance, etc., Id still have to say that rotella is ordinary. Not bad, not an inferior choice, just ordinary compared to oils like delo with a real good base lube, or delvac 1300s with a really good additive package, complete with moly, etc. JMH
__________________
Current Diesels: 1981 240D (73K) 1982 300CD (169k) 1985 190D (169k) 1991 350SD (113k) 1991 350SD (206k) 1991 300D (228k) 1993 300SD (291k) 1993 300D 2.5T (338k) 1996 Dodge Ram CTD (442k) 1996 Dodge Ram CTD (265k) Past Diesels: 1983 300D (228K) 1985 300D (233K) |
#30
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If we were to compare the Delvac-I 5W-40 with the Delo, then the right comparison would be with the Delo-400 synthetic and in that case, the specs are quite evenly matched with the Delo having VI of 175 compared to Delvac-I's 151, the Delvac-I has a PP of -49 versus Delo 400 synth's -45. HTHS remains the same at 2.90 and TBN too is close with Delo-400 at 12.5 and Mobil Delvac-I at 12. Nocack is same for both at 13.
Now this is where it gets intersting, if HTHS is to be taken, none of the synthetic oils from either Delo or Mobil come close to Mobil Delvac conventional's rating of 4.40, this is due to the moly package in conventinal Delvac-1, the synthetic scores much lower in the HTHS rating. The Delo-400 Isosynth scores 3.70 which isnt shabby but nothing close to 4.40. There are oils from other manufacturers which have even higher moly package yeilding higher HTHS numbers. HTHS is quite important if one is putting the engine to severe duty like hauling more than rated load, extended high speed runs in above normal temperatures etc. In lieu of all this, what is your opinion, do you think we should stick to using conventinal oils with extended moly package when subjecting our vehicles to severe duty? |
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