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  #1  
Old 05-28-2004, 01:52 AM
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Join Date: May 2001
Location: Portland, OR
Posts: 29
240d valve stem seals

Hi gang,

I know this has been covered before, I have read most of what is here. I just want to be sure I don't drop a valve. That would wreck my weekend.

Here's what I plan to do. Set #1 cyl. to TDC by aligning mark on crank pulley to 0, at the same time some cam marks should line up. Both cam lobes should be pointed up and away from the valves at this time. Remove rocker arm, loosen valve nuts, remove spring and replace seal. I have the plastic protectors and will find a socket that fits to drive seals in. Then re-assemble.

Ok, when #1 cyl. is done, I will rotate clockwise using 27mm socket on crank bolt by 180 degrees. #3 cyl. should now be lined up and ready to go. After that, rotate 180 deg. and do #4. Rotate 180 deg. and finish on #2 cyl. Adjust valve clearances when done.

Have I missed anything? By the way, the car smokes blue at idle and quite a bit of blue when I let off the pedal during coasting. I get only the faintest black smoke under hard acceleration. Vacuum line from the vacuum pump to intake manifold looks clear so I think the diaphram is ok. Am I on the right track?

Thanks in advance,

Blake
'75 240D
'86 300E

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  #2  
Old 05-28-2004, 08:36 AM
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Join Date: Jan 2000
Location: PA
Posts: 5,440
blakeF,


When #1 piston is at TDC the cylinder in the third number of the zundfolge (firing order) will also be at TDC. I forget the zundfolge but for example if the zundfolge is 1, 3, 4, 2,. Cylinders 1 and 4 would be at TDC and turning the engine 180* would bring cylinders 3 and 2 to TDC.

In other words you can set the engine to TDC, do 4 valves, turn the engine 180* and then do the other 4 valves.

Check the zundfolge on your engine. 4 cylinder engines are easy. 5 cylinder and V8 engines are much more difficult.

Make sure you get the valve nuts tight.

P E H
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  #3  
Old 05-28-2004, 09:34 AM
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Join Date: Sep 2001
Location: central Texas
Posts: 17,277
At one point there were at least two styles of seals...but the manual says that now all of them are the same... intake and exhaust....they have different gas and lip seal design... and are specified for retrofit to the older models...
Be sure you have pushed them onto the valve and boss enough to engage both those seals....
Sounds like you have the concept well in hand.... have you seen the factory tool for hand pushing them on ? You might want to see a picture of it to get an idea on what homemade system you use.... it may be that you need to be able to push straight down carefully .... that is just my impression of the tool design....
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Old 05-30-2004, 12:22 AM
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Join Date: May 2001
Location: Portland, OR
Posts: 29
So far so good. I have two quick questions. Got the rocker arms off after some straining, but they came off. Took old seals off #1 cyl., and found the new seals look different than the old worn ones. The part number for the seal kit I got at the dealer has the number 615 050 00 67. Are they the right seals? Put the new ones on both intake and exhaust and pushed them down with a 10mm wrench. I didn't hear or feel any snap, but they seem to be down firmly. How much force is required to seat them? How do I know if they are seated correctly?

Thanks in advance,

Blake
'75 240D
'86 300E
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  #5  
Old 05-30-2004, 12:46 AM
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Join Date: Sep 2001
Location: central Texas
Posts: 17,277
You might do a search on valve seals in the left box and my name in the right... I may have posted the picture from the shop manual...
If not, remind me by email tomorrow to look in my glove compartment at my new seals..... that is a good place for them...really stopped the oil useage as soon as I put them in there...too late at night to go outside.... might step on a snake...

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