Larry:
I used R134. The system doesnt get Freezing Cold like the Freon 12 it was designed for. The worst thing in NJ is the Humidity, the heat itself is not bad. My 91 Volvo 940 Turbo has Freon 12 and hasnt been recharged for 14 years and is about equally cold.
Today it was 90 degrees with 80% humidity and it took some time to cool the car down. My 300D Mercedes W123, also R 134, actually is colder, with its rebuilt Pep Boys compressor--this time by chance, I got a good unit. Last week I had it in Virginia, 90 degrees all week, and it did a great job.
Honestly, I think I did a good job recharging the System,but i did put about 5 ounces in too much, like I always do. I figure that will cover me for two summers and i wont have to mess with it and break something next May.
I pulled a great vacuum and didnt miss a beat getting the R134 in--sometimes, with the old can tap valves, I would probably introduce quite a bit of atmospheric moisture back into the system because I didnt get a great Seal.
Is is the compressor a little small?

For those of you new to a/c work, a really good diagnostic tool is a cheap digital pencil type thermometer. I picked one up from Harbor Freight for $7.00. You can also find them at Johnstone or Grainger.

It will allow you to convey information to the board like freeway speed vent temps, outside temps, standing in traffic vent temps. All this gives the rest of us extra information to help you.

And when you get in your car in the afternoon and the inside is 125F, you'll better understand why it takes a few minutes to cool down the car!

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84 300DT Puke Yellow. Totalled after 438,000
84 300DT Orient Red. 169,000 (actual mileage may vary)
2002 Explorer EB (wife's)

With 134 you need to be much more careful about overfilling. R12 is more forgiving about overfilling than 134 in that with 134 your high side pressure can run away. Watch it closely. If it gets dangerously high, "recover" a little refrigerant to see that you don't run up the pressure.

If the pressure gets too high, something has to give.

Yes, if you mess with auto a/c or any a/c, you should have a few dial thermometers. I keep one in the vent of several of my cars at all times to keep tabs on the system performance.

Good luck

thanks Larry, i will drain it this afternoon...

For the record, it's the W140 chassis that takes some obscene number of hours to R&R the evaporator, at equally obscene cost. The W124 is not as bad. Yes you need to R&R the dash (5 hours with practice, 10 for your first time), then probably another 5-10 hours to actually R&R the evap, plus another couple to recharge the system. I'd say 10-12 hours for a pro who's done it before, and 20+ as a first-time DIY? If the evap definitely has a leak, I would very strongly consider using a special stop-leak product like CryoSeal before attempting the ~15 hour project...!

The condenser and oil cooler and much easier since they're "out in the open" up front.

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Dave
Boise, ID
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