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#1
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Removing Door Panels W/ Door Closed???!!?
I have a bad problem with my 1979 Benz that has come up. The door lock nobs have become twisted off and I can't get them twisted back on b/c evidently the lock fell or something when they were unscrewed so how am I supposed to get the door panels off for these 2 back doors when the doors are locked shut as I can't open the doors until I get the lock pulled up somehow. I couldn't get anything w/ some pliers, nor could I really see anything when I looked down it. I need help ASAP, is there anyway to remove the panels w/ the doors closed? Let me know soon! Thanks.
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#2
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Move the front seats all the way forward and try removing the back seat cushions.
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DJ 84 300D Turbodiesel 190K with 4 speed manual sold in 03/2012 |
#3
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Do I just have to remove the bottom cushions or what, where exactly are the screws that hold the rear door panels on exactly located? Let me know.
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#4
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You might want to try whatever will work for you. I don't know what kind of '79 MB you have. I haven't seen any screws on my door panels in my 300D. I just guessing at what you can try. I've never tried taking my door panels off with doors open or closed.
The other thing you can try is getting hold of a "slim jim" and try to open your doors with that. You don't need to have door lock buttons to use one. Good luck.
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DJ 84 300D Turbodiesel 190K with 4 speed manual sold in 03/2012 |
#5
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Can't do it without damage.
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00' C230K 88' 190E 2.3 79' 280CE (Sold) 84' 300SD 73' 450SE 93' 300E 68' VW Bug (what the hell was I thinking!) 99' HD FLSTF |
#6
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Usually the metal rod falls backwards or forwards, when the knob is off, but still relatively upright; it's just not in view thru the little hole.
Fish around with a wire with a little "hook" bent horizontally on one end until you see the end of the metal rod thru the hole. You generally will not be able to grab it to pull up with anything. Take the knob with the best threads in it (and get some new knobs from FastLane) and try to screw it on. Had to do this most everytime I'm re-installing my door panels.
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The Golden Rule 1984 300SD (bought new, sold it in 1988, bought it back 13 yrs. later) |
#7
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You should be able to remove the B-Pillar trim, locate the vacuum hose for the lock in there, and apply pressure or vacuum to it with a Mity-Vac. Doing so should operate the lock plunger somehow...
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#8
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I had this happen to me one time...
I felt the knob go limp on me. I pushed and pulled it up and down untill I heard a click. Then I got the door to open and I proceeded to pull the door panel off. The cause of this whole mess was a small plastic piece that connects the metal rod from locking mechanicism to the metal rod thats connected to the lock/unlock knob. There are 3 grooves on this plastic, one 2 are used. (You will understand what I mean if you look at the part). I just simply connected it to another groove and it works fine now. |
#9
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Does the door's vacuum element work?
If it does you should be able to tap into its "unlock" vacuum line with a vacuum pump and get it to unlock, like someone previously mentioned. You'll probably be able to access the lines under the front carpets. If the pin is still lined up with the hole, it might pop out unless there's some physical damage to the lock mechanism somewhere in the door preventing it from unlocking. . . . .
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1980 300D 1977 450SEL |
#10
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well my vaccuum system has several leaks as the automatic locks do not work, how do you get the door panel off w/ the door closed again, or can you?
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#11
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Under the driver's side carpet in the front
There should be some kind of junction where all of the vacuum lines going to each of the four doors leads from. If you can move the seats and lift the carpets, you should be able to follow two yellow lines that go to the door you want to work on. So, two yellow lines, one with a green stripe and one with a red stripe. One is for locking and one is for unlocking, I forget which. When you know which lines go to that door, disconnect them from their rubber connections.
If the vacuum element in that door does work (isn't leaking) you technically should be able to lock or unlock it by applying vacuum to the respective line, as that's how it normally works. Do you have a vacuum pump? If not maybe you can try sucking on the respective lines. I don't know if you can apply enough vacuum by that method though. Normally that's how the door locks go up and down. But, again, if something is jammed or broken in the door, it might not be able to move up to be unlocked.
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1980 300D 1977 450SEL |
#12
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Oh
As far as getting the panels out with the doors closed, I'm not sure if it can be done or not. But like someone said, if you can take that whole backseat out, it'd be easier. From memory on my car (from what I remember working on the front doors), you normally:
- unscrew that door lock plunger that you said broke off - unscrew the screws that hold the main door handle on, removing the handle - pop out the black plastic insert behind the door-opening handle - unscrew that screw that was under the black plastic insert - stick something flat like the end of a screwdriver somewhere alongside the edge of the panel, and "pop" it out from the door in several locations (as it is popped into place on the door in several places) - lift the panel up and off the door If you can't do that from the inside however, you need to follow the advice given by somebody else to get something to stick in the hole to fish for and hook that pin, so you can actually yank on it to unlock the door.
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1980 300D 1977 450SEL |
#13
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try this
I had a similar situation....locked door and leaking vacuum lock. Try applying pressure ( very slight as with a mity vac), to the red-stripe line. Sometimes, at least in my case) this allowed the good side of the actuator to unlock the doot.
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#14
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There is also a chrome trim on the door liner, near the lock mechanism. This must be removed before the door trim can be removed. 2 crosshead screws, but can you access it with the door closed?
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Tony from West Oz. Fatmobile 3 84 300D 295kkm Silver grey/Blue int. 2 tank WVO - Recipient of TurboDesel engine. Josephine '82 300D 390kkm White/Palamino int. Elizabeth '81 280E, sporting a '79 300D engine. Lucille '87 W124 300D non-turbo 6 cylinder OM603, Pearl Grey with light grey interior Various parts cars including 280E, 230C & 300D in various states of disassembly. |
#15
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Try this...
Even though the door is locked it should still open with the handle inside. You may have to pump it several times to get it to open. Mine has a similar symptom and takes 3 or 4 hard pulls and then it will open. Let go of the handle in between pulls.
When removing the panels, don't forget the screws behind the inside handle. You can get at them by removing the cupped plastic behind it with a small screwdriver. If you don't have a mityvac vacuum tester yet it should be on your priority list. There is lots of great help on this board about diagnosing and fixing those pesky vacuum leaks. Good luck
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Mr Goodfahrt (pronounced FAIRT... means "good trip" in German) 1982 300D Turbo Pastel Gray (off-white) 200k+(?) newbie but willing |
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