Valve Adjusting Sequence
 

Today, I adjusted the valves of my 83 300D Turbo.
Using a 22mm on the Power Steering bolt, I turned the engine and watched for the next lobe on the camshaft to be directly opposite the rocker arm and then checked and adjusted.

It so happened that Valve 1 Intake was the first one, in this case. If u just daisy chain from any one u start at, u will have adjusted all valves with minimal cranking.

Ur comments on this method would be appreciated.

Intake Exhaust

Valve 1 1 8

Valve 2 3 10

Valve 3 9 6

Valve 4 5 2

Valve 5 7 4

Somethinf took the spacing out.

Once again, below is the sequence the respective lobes were directly opposite the rocker arm.



------------------- INTAKE--------------------EXHAUST

VALVE 1'''''''''''''''''''''''1''''''''''''''''''''''''''''''''''''''''''''''8
'
VALVE 2'''''''''''''''''''''''3''''''''''''''''''''''''''''''''''''''''''''''10
'
VALVE 3'''''''''''''''''''''''9''''''''''''''''''''''''''''''''''''''''''''''6
'
VALVE 4'''''''''''''''''''''''5''''''''''''''''''''''''''''''''''''''''''''''2
'
VALVE 5'''''''''''''''''''''''7''''''''''''''''''''''''''''''''''''''''''''''4

never done a valve adjustment before...so i'm clueless!
I would like to do this someday but i need those wreches---> i want to do a great job too on it

I wrote on a piece of paper the clearance for each valve as I adjusted. To start I wrote 1 2 3 4 5 and I E for each cylinder.

1 I E
2 I E
.
.
.

etc

It didn't look like this, I made it like a diagram of the valves.

When you have written a clearance for each valve you are finished. Adjust them in order that the cam lobe faces away from the rocker.

Gravy work, if you don't like adjusting valves, you should probably let someone else work on your car.

What is normal charge for a value adjustment job if I bring my 1985 300D to a mechanic?

Thank you

Steve

Planning a DIY valve adjustment 84 300DT
 

Is the above a safe method? I'm afraid that something might break at the PS component. :confused:

The factory CD recommends the use of a 27mm socket (1/2 rachet) but without illustration. Where exactly would you insert it to turn the engine manually? :confused:

I used a strap wrench around my crank pullies but I did it with my injectors out so the engine is easy to turn. With the strap wrench I could turn the engine over from the top. With the injectors out you could probably grab a belt with your gloved hands and turn the engine.

I saw no need for special wrenches.

Very smart.
 

Hi TwitchKitty
:) The way you do it is very good, and smart. :)
Have a great day.

It is a BAD IDEA to use the power steering pulley or nut to turn the engine. It was not made for that . The factory shop manual specifies using the Crank Bolt for this...
The power steering pulley has a tapered fit ....
It can take a lot of work to get that pulley off ( read multiple oxy-acet heatings) plus a lot of hammering or hydraulic pressure....
There are plenty of posts about this situation already in the files...

I learned about this method from a mercedes benz mechanic at the local dealership.

When using the 22mm steering pump bolt, use ur other hand and press down a little on the steering pump belt to ensure it is under pressure when u r rotating. Not much but just pressing it down about 1/2 inch or so.

The sequence u see in my post above is as folllows :

The injector number is down the left hand column.
Each injector has an intake and exhaust.
Looking at the intake and exhaust colums, U will see that they go from 1 to 10. The sequence indicates the corresponding lobe that is ready to be adjusted when in position.

"I learned about this method from a mercedes benz mechanic at the local dealership."--DieselBeagel

It is not illegal for a dealership to have an idiot working for it.

The Factory shop manual specifies using the crank bolt to turn the engine.

I have seen the detrimental effects of the overtightening that pulley nut... it is not pretty,,, and since the Factory shop manual specifies a different method of tightening...those problems are totally avoidable by people able to read.

Am I reading your chart above-illustrated correctly?

I see that you referenced the Valves by #1 thru #10 (front to rear) irrespective of what they are. IOW, Valves #1 and #2 belongs to #1 cylinder, Valves #2 and #3 belongs to #2 cylinder, and so on. If so, shouldn't Valve #1 on #1 cylinder be EXHAUST? :confused:

I stand to be corrected.

Good catch!

Valve 1,2,3,4,5 on the left side should read as Cylinder 1,2,3,4,5.

Each cylinder would have an intake and exhaust valve.

You have not answered my question.

Base on your chart, Valve #1 should be under the EXHAUST column (see thumbnail photo)?

Are these service manuals original or copies of the original?

My 1st DIY Valve Adjustment
 

After reading many threads on the subject I think I'm now ready to tackle the job.

While I have the camshaft cover off, what else should I be checking:
a) I read about timing chain, what should I be looking for? How tight should it be?

b) The gasket was replaced by the INDY last valve adjustment, should I be replacing it every time the cover is taken off?

c) I plan to detail the cover when it's off, any suggestion on what to use?

Thank you for your time.

DIY - 1st time Valve Adjustment Successful
 

It took me about 3 hours to do my first DIY valve adjustment that was done previously by an INDY some 24,000 km. ago.

With COLD engine, I found that ALL the INTAKE valves were within tolerance (.10 mm) and ALL the EXHAUST valves were tight (.35 mm) such that the filler gauge will not slide through. :confused:

To do the job, I heated and bent a pair of 14 mm open-ended wrenches (at 2 45* angles), replicating the factory tools. I purchased a remote starter which easily clipped on to the junction box on the right front fender for turning the engine - recommended. I purchased a new gasket but found the old one fine and reused it.

I tried to detail the camshaft cover with Mothers mag & aluminum polish but with little improvement. The 20 year old dullness and stain is sort of bugging me so I am contemplating on painting it candy red maybe, or having it professionally polished. Any suggestions?

Result: A much noticeable improvement in acceleration. It feels like the engine is breathing much easier :)

For next time, I will grind the homemade wrenches to make it thinner with the same thickness as the adjusting nut and weld an extension for more leverage.

I can answer and say yes. The first one is definitely exhaust.