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  #1  
Old 06-19-2004, 02:37 AM
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STEERING LOCK broke!

I got in my car this morning, everything was normal: it made the usual annoying buzzer sound in accessory position (door was open), preglow was normal (light went out as usual), turn the key to start and nothing.
So I turn it back to off and try again. Nothing in the start position. I turn it back off and notice my stereo still has power. At this point I know something is really fishy. I take the key out and the stereo STILL has power. I think "hmm if the stereo works... the accessories must work" so I tried a window. It goes down and up... AND THE KEY IS LAYING IN MY LAP!

I figured it was the 'ignition' switch that is on the end of the steering lock. I call my local mercedes dealer and they luckily have 4 ignition switches in for me at $32.50. I say HELL YEAH and head on over (obviously not in a diesel mercedes). When I get there one of the guys tells me that he too has a 190D (I believe it was a 2.5 NA) and he had the same problem mine has. He tells me it wasn't the switch that went bad... it was the steering lock. Well I played it safe and bought a new steering lock AND switch. Totaled to be 100 bucks. I get home, have a ***** of a time getting the old steering lock and switch out, then have an equally fun time getting the new ones in. After all that escapade my car now works. But my hands are all cut up and dirty, my arms look like they have a rash (it's not really a rash though) on them from the scraping and irriration from the insulation in there.

So for those of you who ever have this same problem... HAVE FUN DOING IT! It sucks. Unless of course you want to spend over 500 bucks for the car to be flat bedded to a shop or dealer and have them replace it for you.

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  #2  
Old 06-19-2004, 09:06 AM
tscott
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In an absent-minded moment I got in my Ponton to just let it roll to a different place in the driveway. When it was time to turn I remembered the steering wheel lock. That is to say, when I turned the wheel there was a loud click and the lock let go. Chalk one up for Stuttgard, the lock still worked, but IMO the locks are very sensitive. Sometimes my 240D won't let me turn the key until I massage the steering wheel.
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  #3  
Old 06-19-2004, 09:22 AM
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Scott the 240D is telling you to replace the lock cyclinder, if put off too long on the 123 the whole lock will fail and you will be out big bucks, about $400 from MB for the whole steering lock & cyclinder. This can take several hours and lots of bad words being said about the car for you to repair.

Let me make this a little clearer if I can. If the steering lock is doing the occasional you have to turn the wheel thing, then it's not a big deal. However if you pull the key out and turn the key over, then without messing with the steering wheel, put the key back in the ignition and turn the key and start the engine you are about to have real problems. Ask a shop service mgr or tech about the failure warning and only 3 times that engine can be started afterward.

The key cyclinder is $100 list from MB and is special ordered and requires your vin#, it comes with a "master key". This is a real simple jop to replace and only tool required is a large paper clip and about 5 to 10 minutes of your time. Replace the cyclinder, before the car just locks up on you.
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Last edited by oldnavy; 06-19-2004 at 02:39 PM.
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  #4  
Old 06-19-2004, 07:31 PM
tscott
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Sounds like a good tip. Right now I only have problems if I hit the wheel with my knee getting into the car. Hadn't thought about turning the key over, I just put a little pressure on the steering wheel, about 1/4 inch maybe, and everything seems to mesh.

But I'm real sure I don't want to end up with the situation you describe.
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  #5  
Old 06-19-2004, 08:46 PM
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Yeah an friend of mine (God rest his soul) was a MB mechanic for many years and he was telling a mutual friend one day about the problem. Anyway about a week ago I called the MB dealership and talked to the parts guy and said I needed a new key for an 83 240D. He ask me a couple of questions as to what the switch was doing and when he did I suddenly remember what my buddy said. I didn't drive the Benz again till the key cylinder arrived in the mail.
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  #6  
Old 06-19-2004, 08:56 PM
tscott
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On the same type of mechanical mishap, has anybody else noticed that the alternator warning light in the 123-240 class is **** for brains? I drove for about 50 miles before the stereo (lights wipers blower etc) gave up the ghost and I headed for the barn, nonstop. Would be nice to have an actual meter....maybe just a 36-volt globe in the charging circuit that would glow dimly when you're charging.
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  #7  
Old 06-20-2004, 10:58 PM
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Quote:
Originally posted by oldnavy
Scott the 240D is telling you to replace the lock cyclinder, if put off too long on the 123 the whole lock will fail and you will be out big bucks, about $400 from MB for the whole steering lock & cyclinder. This can take several hours and lots of bad words being said about the car for you to repair.

Let me make this a little clearer if I can. If the steering lock is doing the occasional you have to turn the wheel thing, then it's not a big deal. However if you pull the key out and turn the key over, then without messing with the steering wheel, put the key back in the ignition and turn the key and start the engine you are about to have real problems. Ask a shop service mgr or tech about the failure warning and only 3 times that engine can be started afterward.

The key cyclinder is $100 list from MB and is special ordered and requires your vin#, it comes with a "master key". This is a real simple jop to replace and only tool required is a large paper clip and about 5 to 10 minutes of your time. Replace the cyclinder, before the car just locks up on you.
Listen to oldnavy. One day soon your key won't work and it'll be mucho $$$ to get it fixed. To replace the cylinder lock yourself you must be able to turn the key. After that it's as simple as oldnavy described. Don't put this off.
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  #8  
Old 07-03-2004, 12:50 AM
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Difference between tumbler and cylinder...

Quote:
Originally posted by oldnavy
Scott the 240D is telling you to replace the lock cyclinder, if put off too long on the 123 the whole lock will fail and you will be out big bucks, about $400 from MB for the whole steering lock & cyclinder. This can take several hours and lots of bad words being said about the car for you to repair.

Let me make this a little clearer if I can. If the steering lock is doing the occasional you have to turn the wheel thing, then it's not a big deal. However if you pull the key out and turn the key over, then without messing with the steering wheel, put the key back in the ignition and turn the key and start the engine you are about to have real problems. Ask a shop service mgr or tech about the failure warning and only 3 times that engine can be started afterward.

The key cyclinder is $100 list from MB and is special ordered and requires your vin#, it comes with a "master key". This is a real simple jop to replace and only tool required is a large paper clip and about 5 to 10 minutes of your time. Replace the cyclinder, before the car just locks up on you.

Question for my 79 240D, manual everything...

I'm thinking I need to change the tumber, as it feels kinda loose and has to be played around with a little in order to turn the key (sometimes)....I asked my mechanic, who cannot work on it until the 13th, and he tells me a tumbler can be replaced, but the key will not match the doors. Otherwise, a more expensive tumbler can be ordered through the dealer, for maybe 5 times the price, same keys will work everything.

Is this a different part than the cylinder for $100 referred to in the previous post?

I recently had the 300E's tumbler replaced by the dealer, and I think it ran about $150 or so... Is this a do-it-yourself project easy enough for a novice?

Thanks in advance for your ideas....
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Last edited by mbzr4ever; 07-03-2004 at 12:55 AM.
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  #9  
Old 07-03-2004, 07:35 AM
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It's about $100 for the cylinder with a new master key (key alone is $40 at dealer) and the change out only requires a large paper clip for a tool. Below is a link to directions for removal of the cylinder, go to section 46 (steering) and the sub-section 640, it's in PDF file formate and the actual directions start on the second page. This job of replacing the cylinder take's about 10 minutes of reading and rereading the instructions, because you won't believe how simple the job is and then about 3 to 5 minutes for actual replacement of cylinder.

Cylinder replacement
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  #10  
Old 07-03-2004, 08:05 AM
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Before you order one, pull the cylinder out of the assembly and check it. Yes the cylinder does fail. But the ignition assemtbly also fails. My wifes car, where the assembly connects to the switch broke. The replacement I got from the junkyard the mechanism that actually disengages the steering wheel lock was worn out and didn't work properly. I would check all this stuff out ahead of time. Since I bet the dealer will be hesitant to take back a cylinder that matches your car.

And removing the whole thing is actually quite easy, once you know what you are doing. I've removed these things so much in the past 2 weeks I can yank one in about 4 minutes. I've taken tons of pictures and I'm in the middle of making a DIY page for boostnbenz's site.
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  #11  
Old 07-03-2004, 08:06 AM
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I meant to ad this picture...
Attached Thumbnails
STEERING LOCK broke!-damaged_ignition_union.jpg  
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  #12  
Old 07-03-2004, 08:58 AM
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What's James says is good advice, if like most car's of that age, you have a 200k mile plus car. I have a realtive low mileage car at 147k miles, and forget that I won't necessarly have the all same problems as others. Sometimes it still boggles my mind that some of these cars can have 300k or 400k and be a daily driver still. There is one car here in town (300D) that has 325k+ miles on the car and is driven every day, and was bought new by the guy in '85.
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'13 Chrysler 200 Touring Candy Red. Grandma's ride.

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  #13  
Old 07-03-2004, 04:09 PM
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Does look easy...

Thanks for the link for the cylinder replacement....does look like something I can handle...will check for the ignition assembly first before ordering.....


At this rate, I can have the cylinder replaced with the dealer ordered part (matched keys and all) well before the 13th, the first available open date for my mechanic....
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  #14  
Old 01-26-2005, 12:39 AM
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Unhappy Rats

Quote:
Originally Posted by oldnavy
It's about $100 for the cylinder with a new master key (key alone is $40 at dealer) and the change out only requires a large paper clip for a tool. Below is a link to directions for removal of the cylinder, go to section 46 (steering) and the sub-section 640, it's in PDF file formate and the actual directions start on the second page. This job of replacing the cylinder take's about 10 minutes of reading and rereading the instructions, because you won't believe how simple the job is and then about 3 to 5 minutes for actual replacement of cylinder.

Cylinder replacement
The link is dead now.
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  #15  
Old 01-26-2005, 08:58 AM
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Thats what happens when websites get re-organized.

Try Turbo or Non-Turbo

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