Injection pump needed?? - Page 2 - PeachParts Mercedes-Benz Forum

ImBroke · #16 06-25-2004, 10:18 AM

WHunter and others.. Took off the big filter, filled with fresh diesel, removed lines from tank, and placed in fresh diesel bucket. So, now I should be sucking fresh diesel. Hit the priming pump, while cracking the lines to purge all the old diesel out. (my driveway is getting soaked with fuel). Cranked for a minute. You can hear the starter getting quicker, like it's trying, but still nothing. I get a little black smoke out the tailpipe, but still won't fully catch on. Did this about 5 times, and it just won't catch. Tried hand pumping while cranking, no difference.

I refuse to give up on this thing,, even though diesel leaves me

P.E.Haiges · #17 06-25-2004, 10:54 AM

I'm,

ARe you sure you GP are working?

P E H

ImBroke · #18 06-25-2004, 12:01 PM

PE. I measured them resistance wise, and the glow light comes on and goes out normally. I havent' checked them voltage wise yet, but I was under the impression (maybe mistakenly) that if the glow light operates normally, the GP's should be good.

TonyFromWestOz · #19 06-25-2004, 12:37 PM

Can you get someone to tow start you?
These automatic transmissions have an output shaft pump and can be tow started in second or third IIRC
Get them to tow you at 20 mph with the trans in neutral and the key in Acc.. Switch to Ign (Run position) and when the glow light goes out slip the transmission into S or L and she should start right up.

P.E.Haiges · #20 06-25-2004, 12:43 PM

I'm,

Yes if the GP indicator light works correctly, the GP should be working correctly. But I would check each with a voltmeter, since its such an easy test to do. You should have about 12 volts at each GP terminal.

P E H

Lars · #21 06-25-2004, 02:25 PM

I am currently troubleshooting a similar no-start issue on the TD. GPs glow red hot, battery and starter turn engine over fast, checked compression (300+ psi cold all around), swapped injectors without any change. I did notice, when cranking with the injector lines off, that diesel is only squirted out of two of the IP ports. I am pretty sure this is my problem. Car ran fine before except for a severe shake at idle when warmed up, it would smoothen out as soon as I pressed on accelerator. It did get bad mileage (about 22 mpg with almost no city driving). I will either try to find a replacement pump to try out or have mine tested at a diesel shop. I personally think we have the same problem. At first I thought the no-start issue was related to the fact that I have just finished burning my first tank of 30% WVO mix, but I now believe it was unrelated as all my filters were fine. I am also back on 100% diesel (or close to) and still no go.

Could crud in the pump cause this problem? I can eventually manage to get the car started with a freshly charged battery and with block heater plugged in overnight. Once the car is started and warmed up it starts fine if I shut it off. I was wondering if a diesel purge could help the IP.

kip Foss · #22 06-25-2004, 03:13 PM

As was mentioned your best bet is to start at the begining. Take your injection pump and injectors to an injection pump service shop. Get them to test the pump for pressure and volume per cylinder and the injectors for the proper spray pattern.

While you are waiting for the pump start on your tank. Pull the strainer. Chances are that it is full of bactarial sludge. If it is full of sludge it wouldn't be bad idea to pull the tank and wash it out. Install a NEW strainer, don't mess with cleaning the old one. Disconnect the supply and return lines at the filter and blow them out. Install new filters if you haven't already. Reconnect the tank. Fill the tank and pump fresh fuel to the filters. Take any old fuel and pour it around your fence line to control weeds. Now you know that you are good to go from the tank to the pump supply line.

Go get your pump and injectors. Cry about the cost and ask for a discount. Install the pump to the correct timing. Install the injectors with new copper washers. Install new copper washers on the fuel line. Charge the battery (with a 99 cent hydrometer from the parts store check the condition of each cell). You should have been trickle charging the battery for a couple of days. Bleed the pump and injector lines.

Now you know that everything is good from the tank to the injectors. If you don't do all the above there will always be a possibility of some hitch in the system. All the above repairs, save the pump, can be done in an afternoon.

ImBroke · #23 09-02-2004, 01:45 PM

Well, it's been a while, but the latest is.
Replaced the injector pump, and lo and behold, I now have fuel coming out of all ports. So I think the answer to my original question is yes, you need to have fuel coming out of all the ports when cranking.

The car still doesn't run, but now I think I have to reset the timing. It almost started when I pushed the pump as far as I could towards the engine, so I'm thinking I'm a couple degrees off. It's getting closer.

#24 09-02-2004, 09:21 PM

Check your chain stretch using the quick and dirty method of lining up the mark on the cam tower and the cut in the cam washer while your there adjust the valves. If the stretch is not real bad I bet the valves are it is real common with charity auction cars that the valves are tightened almost closed from neglect I think the valves is really worth your trouble at this point. I thought 2 of my injectors were bad till I checked chain stretch and found my chain jumped a tooth. The car was real hard to start and ran like it was on 2 and half cylinders it is amazing with the timing off by 15 degrees it ran at all and did not put a valve thru the piston. It is a 1976 240d Now I just have to get that monstrosity of an AC bracket out of the way so I can get at the tensioner. I am thinking explosives might be in order.
Dave S

ImBroke · #25 09-17-2004, 11:17 AM

Dave S,, I had previously adjusted the valves, so I knew they were good. I rechecked them for the halibut. Still good. I'm going to look for the cut cam washer thingy,, but before I do, I'm going to do a search for any pics so I know what I'm looking for.

This thing is so close to starting,, I know it wants to show me what an old MB can do, and why they are the best cars out there.

Maybe I'll post a small video of it cranking.

Thanks to everyone out there for the help so far.

whunter · #26 10-02-2004, 12:02 AM

What is going on?
If you are still having issues, could you post a sound file of cranking engine?

ImBroke · #27 10-03-2004, 05:00 PM

I haven't really been working on the MB, been working on the race car. But, here's some pics I took today, for the cam/crank timing. In these pics, #1&2 are on the intake stroke, and #3&4 are the next revolution. I thought #1 Intake cam lobe should be at the very top when the cam is TDC? Can it be the cam isn't in right?

I'll post the cranking vid shortly.

Brian Carlton · #28 10-03-2004, 06:42 PM

It is difficult to see where the top of the lobe is for the intake valve in photo #4. However, you can check to see if you have this correct as follows:

If you are on the exhaust stroke, as you have indicated in figure #4, the intake valve (valve #2) should open at about 11 degrees after TDC. So, rotate the engine in the direction of rotation by 11 degrees and the cam lobe should be just making contact with the rocker and begin to open the valve.

If this does not occur, then the cam is not installed properly.

BTW, there is some variability in the 11 degree figure due to chain wear. Anything between 9 degrees and 15 degrees is fine. There may be some additional small difference between the numbers for the 617.952 and the numbers for your engine, however, we are looking for a gross error and these numbers will serve.

engatwork · #29 10-03-2004, 06:54 PM

Quote:

I thought #1 Intake cam lobe should be at the very top when the cam is TDC? Can it be the cam isn't in right?

Cam is fine for that second picture at TDC on #1. Good shots

.

ImBroke · #30 10-03-2004, 07:18 PM

Brian, the cam in pic 4 is just after, it looks like about 10-15 degrees. So, I think that part is fine.

engatwork, "Cam is fine for that second picture at TDC on #1. Good shots."
Thanks for the verification, I was wondering about the position.
Thanks for the "Good Shots"

The vid of it cranking is 207k, and it won't let me post it. If anyone would like to look at it, my email is t_goat69@hotmail.com

Thanks for the help so far everyone!!!!