If it were just a little area it wouldn't be that bad but that'd take a LONG time to do that whole engine compartment.

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Jeff M.
Mercedes W123 DIY pages are now located here.
1983 / 1984 300D Sold
2000 CLK430 Cabriolet ~58k Sold
2005 Avalanche 4x4 ~66k

I cleaned the overboost sensor and it helped get my power back, I do fine getting up to 60mph but the weird thing is, it's still having trouble getting to and past 75-80mph. I'm just stumped, I have my power but for some reason my top end is lagging behind....any thoughts???

I know it's nice to have everything look clean in there and it's helpful in locating leaks, but absent those has anyone actually improved their performance/longevity from this type of cleaning??

Ah, the troubles of turbo's & electronic's.

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'10 Chrysler T&C Stow-N-Go White. Grandpa's ride.

'13 Chrysler 200 Touring Candy Red. Grandma's ride.

Age and cunning will always over come youth and vigor.

Well I guess most of it is looks, but I don't care to get covered in grease & carbon each time I work on it. If I could spend an hour of work to get it cleaner then I would because that'd make it that much easier working on it. When I first bought it, it was quite a mess working on but after power washing it off once or twice it seemed to be at least reasonable.

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Jeff M.
Mercedes W123 DIY pages are now located here.
1983 / 1984 300D Sold
2000 CLK430 Cabriolet ~58k Sold
2005 Avalanche 4x4 ~66k

Try this - starting from the brake booster area, working thru all the vacuum - rubber connections, take each vacuum line off the rubber connector and reconnect.

I have had this problem before. Some connections may seem snug, but the rubber is not hugging the vacuum line all around.

I know, it might take an hour or two, maybe three...

Darn the turbo car's must have a lot more connectors the the 240D. I changed all my 3 & 4 way connector's and the short straight rubber connectors and it only took about 40 or 45 minutes.

I bet why so many of you have vacuum problems, is because the rubber vacuum line you or someone else has used over the years is probably 3/16" or 5mm, when the proper size is 3.5mm and with 4mm being ok to use. That 1mm difference is what I bet cause's leaks so easy as these rubber connector lines get old.

I found Silicone rubber tubing here that I have thought I might redo my line's with later this winter when I have nothing else to do sitting here around the house.

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'10 Chrysler T&C Stow-N-Go White. Grandpa's ride.

'13 Chrysler 200 Touring Candy Red. Grandma's ride.

Age and cunning will always over come youth and vigor.

Thanks old navy, my 84 had that stuff and it worked real well. I think for anything in the interior (since all the motor rubber is new) I replace will be with the silicone stuff.

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Jeff M.
Mercedes W123 DIY pages are now located here.
1983 / 1984 300D Sold
2000 CLK430 Cabriolet ~58k Sold
2005 Avalanche 4x4 ~66k

You're welcome B&B, I think the stuff will have 2 or 3 times the life span of rubber.

They also have the Vitron tubing that isn't affected by Bio-fuel, but the crap is about $6 a foot. I think the 240 would only need about 4 or 5 feet of the stuff, but I would need to measure to be sure at that price.

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'10 Chrysler T&C Stow-N-Go White. Grandpa's ride.

'13 Chrysler 200 Touring Candy Red. Grandma's ride.

Age and cunning will always over come youth and vigor.