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#1
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How to reattach wood trim?
The piece of wood trim below the center vents on my dash just fell off. I also have a new wood strip to replace the cracked one on my glovebox. What's the best way to attach these pieces? What's the best procedure to use to prep the dash, and what's the best glue to use?
Thanks!
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'81 300TD turbo <<sold 12/05 to another diesel nut |
#2
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NOTE:
The wood pieces all match in grain and come in a set, therefore you need to weigh the advantages of no cracks vs. no match. I use the 3M Super Weatherstrip adhesive to re-attach the wood pieces. Follow the directions exactly. Don't use the Permatex substitute. The 3M stuff comes in a small red box and has the part # 08001. Its fondly known here as "Yellow Death"
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84 300DT Puke Yellow. Totalled after 438,000 84 300DT Orient Red. 169,000 (actual mileage may vary) 2002 Explorer EB (wife's) |
#3
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Yeah, that 3M Super Weatherstrip adhesive is great. When I didn't have any of that, I found that a good brand of contact cement will also work. My preference is the 3M stuff, though. The key with either product is to make sure you remove all the old adhesive first.
just my $.02, Wes |
#4
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The 3M weatherstrip adhesive can be found at Pep Boys and at other well stocked autoparts stores. Its generally in the same area as the Permatex and Loc-tite products.
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84 300DT Puke Yellow. Totalled after 438,000 84 300DT Orient Red. 169,000 (actual mileage may vary) 2002 Explorer EB (wife's) |
#5
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I used some epoxy on mine and I don't expect for any of them to ever fall off again.
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DJ 84 300D Turbodiesel 190K with 4 speed manual sold in 03/2012 |
#6
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Quote:
my favorite glue epoxy, then the 3m stuff, both work well |
#7
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My choice...
I used the Elmers Probond It is an expanding epoxy and will glue anything and I do mean anything. You have to pay attention to it though as you need to periodically clean the excess away or you end up with the foamy yellow tinges around the edges.
That center piece on the 123 can be removed by going through the glove box as I remember. Pull the cglocve box and then prepare to have your hand engaged in the usual twisted poition for working under the dash... The metal backing is held in place with tabs that are twisted or bent behind the dash. I think 2 on the center piece. I pulled all this out for the repair as in car you may end up with a major mess if the glue gets away from you.
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'99 S420 - Mommies '72 280SE 4.5 - looking to breathe life into it '84 300SD Grey - Sold '85 300SD Silver - Sold '78 Ski Nautique |
#8
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Thx for all the info. I have some of the 3M weatherstrip adhesive on hand already. Great stuff.
But do I really need to remove the old adhesive? It appears to be some type of adhesive foam and it looks like a real pain to get off. What's the best way to get it off if I really have to do that?
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'81 300TD turbo <<sold 12/05 to another diesel nut |
#9
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The wood strip on the glovebox door on my 300TD had warped badly and pulled up on one side. I tried some of that "Gorilla Glue" and was amazed at how well it worked. That stuff will hold anything!
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1992 300D 2.5T 1980 Euro 300D (sadly, sold) 1998 Jetta TDI, 132K "Rudy" 1974 Triumph TR6 1999 Saab 9-5 wagon (wife's) |
#10
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Wannawagon - I found that a putty knife and a little careful scraping removed all of the old adhesive (tape). The wood piece is easy because you have it off already. The metal piece that the wood is attached to is a bit harder. I've always scraped off the adhesive without removing the metal piece.
Wes |
#11
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1983 300TD
How do you get the wood trim off the dash and the vertical part of the console? If you break a piece, where can you buy replacements? Thanx |
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