Waste Gate Valve Adjust Kit
 

So..., I've put about five of these together for people in the last month (various cars I've worked on) and thought I'd just buy an order of these valves and sell a few kits to forum members to make the system easy to convert.

This is not a business thing, I just want to re-coup some of the $'s I have in spares.

"Kit" includes:

- Brand New braided Mercedes tubing (long enough to cut-to-fit),

- Brand new full circumference hose clamps (X4) for vavle and compressor/gate end of turbo,

- Brand New Parker USA made adjustable and locking needle valve.

- Brand new brass hose nipples (x2)

http://home.comcast.net/~tomj/images/kit9.JPG

http://home.comcast.net/~tomj/images/kit8.JPG


WARNING: Check total boost pressure with an in-line pressure gauge when installing/adjusting this valve and DO NOT increase boost above 12.5psi for 617 engines (check your specs for other engines.)


"Kit" as shown: $25/shipped

Paypal, checks, MO's, etc. OK

Tom, is this meant to provide a flow restriction to the wastegate so that exhaust impulses do not start to open gate prematurely, allowing for full boost to be reached quicker?

wastegate kit
 

I've sent you an email.Thanks,Henry

Yes. Just a way to fake the gate into thinking the turbo is making less boost than it really is and keeping it from dumping too soon (a way to circumvent relaxed WG springs and low factory boost settings.) BUT....

Read the warning I've added to the orig post.

I assume you mean that you better make sure that you don't overdo things, your overboost switch should be operational, etc. Have you considered using an orifice in the line once you know how much restriction is needed? The reason I say that is because although your needle valve setup looks fine, needle valves can carbon up pretty easy. An orifice would eventually carbon up too, but it could easily be cleaned and restored to near previous condition pretty quickly. Of course, it wouldn't be as fun to adjust!

TomJ: Are you running the needle valve inside the car--to adjust from driver's seat?

Since the flow is FROM the compressor housing (filtered clean air before the EGR) TO the wastegate, there shouldn't be any carboning unless you have a serious air filter system problem. In that case, carboning of the valve would be the LEAST of the worries I'm afraid!

No, this just mounts from the compressor to the WG at the turbo. The gauge should be a temp underhood one just to adjust in the driveway till you have max boost at ~10-12psi.

Having a boost gauge would be a good idea along with an EGT gauge, but this just makes a solid change rather than constantly adjusting, so once it's setup and locked, it should be good to go and just ignore, maybe periodically check to make sure it hasn't changed.

The hose looks pretty small to me. IIRC the wastegate hose (which I'm assuming this mounts inline with, or replaces) on the 617 turbos is much larger.

Nope. This is the exact hose that is spec'd for the waste gate on the 617. This is the hose/setup I have on my '84 300D. It looks small in the pics, but it's the right size (tight fit) for the nipples at the gate and the compressor.

I have an W124 '87 300TD. You mentioned putting this on different cars. Would it work the same way on my particular car (not familiar with 617/603 differences). Thanks. Steve:confused:

Should do the same, but since I have an '87 300TD wagon in the driveway right now with the front of the engine torn apart (waiting from parts from Rusty), I can check it out and see if this would work on that engine.

BTW, this is something anyone here can put together themselves, just order the valve from Grainger and get the tubing at your MB dealer, barb fittings at the local hardware and the full diameter clamps at Advance Auto (probably lots of other places too.)

The part in your original thread about recovering some of your cost is why I was interested. If, after viewing your car, it appears this will work on my '87 300TD I would just as soon do my part to help your cause and at the same time not have to go through the parts ordering procedure to duplicate what you have spent time doing. So, if you believe it will work on mine, let me know and I will gladly order one from you.
Thanks

Looked at this TD yesterday (while replacing the H2O pump, thermo, clutch, etc.) and it looks too tight to reasonably mount this kit unless you tapped into the plenum right at the top where the line snakes around from the bottom. Since I have not installed this on a 124, I can't say it'll work, so I'd suggest experiment with it yourself (hook up a pressure gauge to the intake and then clamp that line off with vice grips and rev it, see what the pressure is with and without the clamp.

quick question: you mentioned doing the adjustment
"in the driveway"....i've recently been told to check my turbo's effectiveness using a boost guage at the plenum fitting going to the ALDA...but been advised: check it under LOAD,say climbing a hill above 2500 rpm...vs 2500 running in Park....as I understand the physics involved...spooling at 2500 rpm in Park will require much less fuel burn...said extra fuel burn under hill driving LOAD being different...right?...extra fuel burn = more exhaust gas temp/expansion = faster turbine spin velocity on hot section=more psi cold side boost to the boost guage?....ergo, would a setting dialed in park in the driveway read something very different under load going up the hill?...& most importantly
WHICH is the correct MAX you want to keep from damaging the engine, while preserving your right to make TORQUE & blowing by the factory engines going down the highway....??

Yes, that is 100% correct...., to a point. Just from experience testing these both under load and in the driveway, there's about a 3/4 psi difference in spread. In the driveway at 10-12 psi, you should be at a good safe boost under load. Remember, this tells the gate when to dump relative to compressor pressure, so even if the turbine is really cranking and under load, there is still a finite pressure that the compressor will be allowed to boost before the gate opens, it will just open earlier under load to dump the pressure, but the pressure should still remain relatively constant, either way.

Of course, this is the DIY quick fix. What a person SHOULD do is have both an EGT and a boost gauge fitted to minitor their changes. Once the car is setup though, the gauges aren't critical anymore (except to give indication of a blockage in the WG sensor line.)