Oil cooler lines - PeachParts Mercedes-Benz Forum

deferr · #1 07-20-2004, 01:17 PM

I am the recent new owner of a 1978 diesel. As with an 25 year old car there are things that need replaced before they REALLY go bad. I have both oil cooler lines that need replaced and did a search and somebody mentioned that it's a nightmare of a job to do myself, but if I buy the wrench it doesn't seem that hard...... just messy. Is there something I'm missing???? Seems like you just take the old ones off and install new ones.

Secondly I have diesel return lines that are leaky so I'm also ordering those The precut ones with new gaskets. I'm not quite sure how these are removed and installed either. Anybody have experience?

Thirdly a PO has installed a Rayco Diesel/Water separator to my fuel system. On the door for the gas(diesel) cap there is a sticker that says do not use fuel additives and to drain the water daily. Well I have no idea how to drain this water... or even what this water is. anybody know what this is about?????

Long post but I'm a newbie to owning a car in general let alone a diesel. It's my first car that I'm paying for. Any help from someone older and wiser is greatly appreciated. Thanks!

Dan

Eric Eliel · #2 07-20-2004, 01:49 PM

Dan,

First of all, proper etiquette would be to NOT mention a parts supplier by name who doesn't support this forum. Fastlane supports this forum.

There is plenty of info about the oil cooler lines within the archives and you can use the search function to access the information.

This is not a bad job, just time consuming and messy. DON'T use the aftermarket lines, the factory hose material is superior. If you want to PM me I will let you know where to find the lines at a reasonable cost. When you compare the aftermarket lines with the factory lines (available at a discount) the factory lines are same or less money.

I made a "skinny" 21mm wrench to help with the big nuts next to the cooler and the housing. You'll also need a set of metric hex tools to unleash the left side motor mount.

I'd also suggest one of those plastic tubs used to mix concrete available from HD or Lowes. It helps catch the dirty oil that comes out of the lines after they are removed (that's the messy part).

Pete Burton · #3 07-20-2004, 01:56 PM

excellent time to replace the motor mounts if they need it. They are cheap($20) and many on this forum have remarked on how much difference it makes. At first glance this may seem OK, but clean the area and look closely.

tenknots · #4 07-20-2004, 02:47 PM

Those without access to lifts, how do you raise the engine enough to get the mounts out?

Pete Burton · #5 07-20-2004, 02:54 PM

I assume you mean both vehicle lifts (Larry, I'm still green with envy) and engine lifts (don't envy me that much, they are like $200 new for a decent one). Put a floor jack under the steel oil pan and use a wide scrap pieces of wood between the jack and the pan. Make sure it goes beyond the pan on both sides- I've used a foot long piece of 2x10

tenknots · #6 07-20-2004, 03:07 PM

Wow, you can jack up the engine using the oil pan? Must be made of stronger stuff than old GM cars.

skalie · #7 07-20-2004, 03:15 PM

Quote:

Originally posted by tenknots
Wow, you can jack up the engine using the oil pan? Must be made of stronger stuff than old GM cars.

Heh, just swapped an engine at a garage of a friend of mine who has been doing more and more vintage Mercedes work.

He says, and I agree, that Mercs were made from decent metal, and you notice that when working on them.

It seemed to me that even the jubilee clips on the hoses seemed of better quality than normal. I didn't encounter one problematic bolt or screw (except for the odd access issue) when removing two engines, and the oil pan held up to a heck of a lot of jacking when the installation didn't go quite as well as planned.

Pete Burton · #8 07-20-2004, 03:20 PM

by quite a bit. I've welded both to repair damage (from PO, I would never drive a vehicle over questionable terrain:p :p ) and the MB oil pan is pretty strong. However, still you must be careful that nothing is resisting and that the pan is i good shape. The one I repaired got hit real hard and the gouging on the bottom terminated in a crack at the oil drain. In a case like this (it was only seeping slightly) I wouldn't do it, you'd almost certainly make it worse

d.delano · #9 07-20-2004, 05:31 PM

Kinda sorta within topic- the oil cooler wrench that is sold by a particular online MB parts merchant in the Pacific NW- the picture of the wrench has what looks like a 1-1/16" marking on the side. 21mm was mentioned in an earlier post on this thread. I'd like to make my own of course, but need to know what size the flare nut is for sure. thanks

Palangi · #10 07-20-2004, 10:01 PM

That Racor filter has either a petcock or a knurled valve that you twist to open on the bottom of the filter. You can buy replacement filter elements at NAPA.

I would buy that old Racor if you decided to sell it.

william rogers · #11 07-21-2004, 01:17 AM

Eric , I must disagree with you about not mentioning any other part supplier than FastLane. I buy nearly all my parts from Phil and have spent literly thousands of dollars on parts from FastLane and consider Phil the most helpfull auto parts supplier that I have ever dealt with.

However we do not sign a pledge in blood when we sign up with mercedesshop.com and think that the best businesses always come out on top........

William Rogers........

Pete Burton · #12 07-21-2004, 08:52 AM

Quote:

Originally posted by d.delano
Kinda sorta within topic- the oil cooler wrench that is sold by a particular online MB parts merchant in the Pacific NW- the picture of the wrench has what looks like a 1-1/16" marking on the side. 21mm was mentioned in an earlier post on this thread. I'd like to make my own of course, but need to know what size the flare nut is for sure. thanks

1-1/16 will work as it is 26.9875mm as will 27mm.

Eric Eliel · #13 07-21-2004, 10:31 AM

William,

I can't check Dan's orginal post because he performed an edit. But if my memory serves me well, the post started with "after I get my parts from ******". It was a little blatant AND Dan politely corrected it without fanfare. That showed some class on his part.

We'll all know who the other suppliers are out there, it just should be handled in a more tactiful way. Fastlane provides this wonderful forum, its free to all of you. I'm sure it saves all of you a bundle of $$$. And it costs them money to run it. If you decide not to purchase from FASTLANE at least be gracious and tactiful about it and not rub their nose in it.

IMO (not humble on this subject), the other suppliers names ought to be discussed in a way that is not so blantant. (ie our friends up in the PNW)

d.delano · #14 07-21-2004, 11:14 AM

Quote:

Originally posted by Eric Eliel
We'll all know who the other suppliers are out there, it just should be handled in a more tactiful way. Fastlane provides this wonderful forum, its free to all of you. I'm sure it saves all of you a bundle of $$$. And it costs them money to run it. If you decide not to purchase from FASTLANE at least be gracious and tactiful about it and not rub their nose in it.

Indeed, fair enough. Incidentally- FastLane doesn't carry the desirable FACTORY oil cooler lines by chance do they?

Hatterasguy · #15 07-21-2004, 10:02 PM

Phil can get your factory parts, just ask he is a nice guy.