Questions about my recently acquired 220D - PeachParts Mercedes-Benz Forum

CarolinaMBZ · #1 07-23-2004, 08:22 PM

Hello everyone, I just adopted a 1973 220D. It has a few problems that I need help on as this model and its accompanying nuances are new to me and all my service literature is for time periods before and after this car.

1) Won't shut off (Prior owner just bogged down in gear to shut-off). Everything appears to be intact with the exception of number 2 below which had no effect. Any common problems in this area on this particular car. It does not readily appear to be a vacuum leak.

2) Vacuum line from firewall (under driverside hood hinge) had an open connection as did the fitting off of the brake booster vacuum line. To diagnose, I ran some hose between the two to no avail. I also, in the alternative, simply plugged the one at the brake booster line also to no avail.

3) Had some diff whine, so I figured it wouldn't hurt to go ahead and check and change the fluid (I usually change all fluids right off the bat anyway). Had to suck out the fluid as I couldn't locate a drain plug and didn't feel like pulling the cover. This seems strange as even my 1967 had a drain plug. Did I simply fail to find it (car was flat on the ground so my maneuverability and vision was very limited)? FWIW, I didn't expect it to help my whine but at least wanted to make sure it wasn't being actively caused by old/low fluid.

4) I have holes but no headrests. What other years and models will fit? I need dark blue if anyone has any.

All advice appreciated.

Zeitgeist · #2 07-23-2004, 11:16 PM

The 220D is shut off mechanically via the same push/pull knob mechanism used to glow the plugs and start the engine. When you push the knob all the way in, a cable should consequently push on a lever at the injection pump to shut off fuel to the injectors. Sometimes these cables can become mis-aligned, or a piece at the lever end can fall off, restricting the ability to shut off fuel. I would inspect this cable mechanism.

These cars have a rather simple vacuum system (relative to the later models), so I'm not sure what hoses are disconnected, or whether they would impact any critical functions other than the vacuum pods for the climate control system under the dash--again, very simple.

I don't remember where the diff drain is, but I'm sure there is one.

I'll bet the headrests are interchangeable with later 115's and early 123's.

300SDog · #3 07-24-2004, 12:39 AM

Those are the arc-shaped headrests..... kinda like what you find on dentist's chairs. Imho, the coolest headrests that MB ever designed - 114, 115, 116 and early 123 should be an exact match. And those really cool dentist chair HR's can swap into later 123 cars with rounder bulbous HR's, so these too can fit into your car.

Plus you dont have to be so picky about the color. Vinyl interior spray color coat paint is available that works very well. Had great success with this stuff on 220Sb center console pad and for restoring discolored sunvisors.

Diesel4me · #4 07-24-2004, 02:01 AM

I am betting that the little deal on the end of the cable fell off and now the fuel rack is always on the 'on' position, no matter what the position of the knob inside. If you want oem look you can buy the whole cable assembly, or you can go to a junkyard and try to find one (good luck) or you can rig up something yourself, what i imagine would be like a little metal block with two set screws, one holding the block to the pin on the IP , and the other holding the end of the cable. My mechanic installed a new cable in mine.

leathermang · #5 07-24-2004, 08:17 AM

Is yours a column shift manual trans ?
If so I know where there is a parts car for pretty cheap... email me...
It is in Central Texas.... you could run over with a trailer for the Aug 12 get together.... what ? about 15 hours each way ?

P.E.Haiges · #6 07-24-2004, 09:44 AM

CarolinaMBZ,

There should be 3 rubber dampers between the IP and the stop cable connector. Yours are probably broken. They are about 3/8" long and made of moulded rubber if I remember correctly with threaded screws sticking out each end

You can buy new dampers at a MB dealer or you can replace with screws using nuts to space the 2 flanges apart.

I have some black head rests if you need them.

P E H

dabenz · #7 07-24-2004, 10:00 AM

Don't know about the rubber grommets theory (daBenz doesn't have them). daBenz's gorilla knob's cable has a slotted end. The slot pulls the pin to start, pushes the pin to stop, and the pin floats in the slot when the engine is running. A five minute adjustment. That pin controls the fuel pump: off, normal operation, and a little extra fuel for starting. Dollars to donuts it was "adjusted" in an attempt to "reduce" the pull required to start. You should have two distinct pulls: one to glow and a hard pull to start.

CarolinaMBZ · #8 07-25-2004, 02:28 PM

Thanks for the info all. Will scrutinize my cable run this coming week or weekend (hopefully) as I had to work most of this weekend. I'll post my results (hopefully) in the next several days. PEH, I might contact you soon about the headrests. Leathermang, mine is a floor shift, but thanks for the info.