I got up at 6 am. My parts are here, and I am reading the service CD and its dawning on me, this chain may be different than the W123 and it will need a different Crimping Tool...also-- I dont have all the neat/necessary stuff in Hardware kit 602 589 00 98 00 they show in the procedure, like the Chain retaining cover and assembly links..anybody got any comments on this?--

Anybody got any ideas on this? Worse comes to worse, I wont Roll it in, I will slap it in, which is the brute force, foolproof method--Take apart the front of the engine--
Anyway I feel better than last nite. I was thinking, this car is running great, and the AC is freezing--why mess with it, the chain wont fail for at least another 100K....

The chain guide is wonderful, but not absolutely necessary.

If you have a helper, it's just like the chain on a W123. Without a helper, get a large bag of cable ties and keep both ends of the chain on the cam sproket at all times (else you will have some injection pump timing problems after you drop both ends.... like I did on the 220D). You DO NOT want to have to remove the IP on the 603, requires more special tools and CANNOT be done without them.

I use the new link to draw the chain through -- press the outer plate on, but don't crip, then pry the plate back off to remove the old chain. There is no sidways force on the chain while rolling it in.

You will probably need to reset the injeciton timing with the new chain, although it may be just right if it's not been adjusted to compensate for chain wear.

Peter

__________________
1972 220D ?? miles
1988 300E 200,012
1987 300D Turbo killed 9/25/07, 275,000 miles
1985 Volvo 740 GLE Turobodiesel 218,000
1972 280 SE 4.5 165, 000 - It runs!

I agree with Peter -

You can roll in a new chain without special tools. I did it by myself. I rented a chain link crimper but I've heard form known authorities (Larry?) that you can take a hammer and anvil and peen the clain link pins by hand.

I [think I] disagree with Peter -

I don't recall using any special tools to R&R the 603 IP. At most I had the locking tool to keep the IP center shaft from shifting from the static timing position but the center shaft is so difficult to turn by hand that it shouldn't turn on it's own during R&R. It's a long tedious job to R&R the IP and you need special tools to properly set IP timing. Static timing gets you only so close.

Sixto
95 S420
87 300SDL

I wont be surprised if I end up doing the SLAP on method (vice Roll through) however, where you dissasemble the entire front engine, because I would like to get TDC and CDC just perfect and also to change the Guides, and also because I always make small jobs into huge ones because of my ocd tendencies..

You are right, this is the fastest Diesel I ever saw, man its really a "Q" car, innocuous and innocent, but when its time to kick A___, it can....too bad the nose is too short to stuff an intercooler in there ( not that I would being 44)--

Wish me Luck--anyway this is all for Fun--se you in about 8 hours

JUST 1 Last clarification--Is there a Special Chain tool for the W124 vice W123--i dont want to peen it...with my touch, I would probably destroy it...

I don't think you have to remove the IP if you drop the chain. Just remove the IP timer, fish out the chain, set the chain against the case, refit the timer, then try 50 times to set the timing right.

Sixto
95 S420
87 300SDL

Sixto:

If the IP is off a whole tooth (and the 220D seems to be at least that far late), you have to yank the bloody thing to get it set right.

More projects I don't have time for....

Peter

__________________
1972 220D ?? miles
1988 300E 200,012
1987 300D Turbo killed 9/25/07, 275,000 miles
1985 Volvo 740 GLE Turobodiesel 218,000
1972 280 SE 4.5 165, 000 - It runs!

its 7 pm, I almost got the timing case off, I got quite a bit of the engine accessories off the Front, the vacuum pump, the alternator, I still defend my way of doing it, everytime I roll a chain in, I feel bad I cant make sure the Timing Chain is set right to the last degree...this way you "place the chain" on and you can make sure everything is aligned..also the alternator is low quality brand replacement that fries your battery in about 25K miles, and I can redo the water pump, and all the timing guides
Pictures tomorrow. anyone know about a Timing Chain tool for the W124 series?

and was appreciable and visibly evident. The engine had 220 K on it. Measurement obatined by comparing length of new vs old hanging. More significant was the main rail wear, but you cant replace that without pulling the cylinder head. Hope to post a Picture tomorrow of the main rail wear. There is a Tech Service Bulletin on ALLDATA that says that this rail was redesigned to add more wear material to it...even as quirky as I am, I'm not pulling the Cylinder Head

It's somewhere between ludicrous and stupid that you can't replace the tensioner rail without pulling the head.

Sixto
95 S420
87 300SDL