Remote ALDA control
 

I was sitting at the stop light today and with the wind behind me exhaust from my car was visible. I had turned up the alda to give me a bit more power, but not so much that it does not return to idle. My pump MW pump is turned up enough that my alda level control the return to idle and fuel quantity injected (and thus exhaust smoke level). If I max out the alda- loads of smoke and no return to idle... ie bye bye engine. If I make it all the way in, less smoke and less power. This is a result of the TC adjustment. Why can't I have a mechanical device that rotates the ALDA from inside the car? When I want no smoke- turn it down. When I want more power- turn it up for the 0-60 against a TDI or some ricer....
Ideas/suggestions/web sites with such controls?
On a unrelated note, anthracite on my car is now called German Army Brown.

ok.... what?

Here is a thought...

Couldn't you add a lever to the adjustment screw and then connect it to a throttle cable...you know the type you find on a lawn mower? Then run it inside the cabin using another lever to control it.

Such a device already exists, its called your right foot...

I'd recommend removing the alda, adjusting your pump so it doesn't run away, and then driving the ***** out of it. If you don't want smoke, don't floor it off the line.

Let me explain again:
My pump is adjusted internally. The fine tune is the alda. When the alda is adjusted to give the engine more fuel- the engine will not return to idle, and there is smoke at ALL rpm's- including idle (more power setting). When the alda is set to give me the least amount of fuel, there is almost no smoke at idle, and it returns to idle as should (no smoke setting). I could adjust the TC inside the pump so much that the engine will not return to idle no matter what the alda is set at. I could of course back it off so that the alda adjustment will have no effect on idle- it will still return as it should. By having it as I do, it's telling me that I've gone about as far as I can with the TC inside the pump. If I want more fuel- ie more power- then while I accelerate I'd like the alda all the way out- who cares if you cannot return to idle when you are accelerating? When the accel is over- turn the alda back in so that you are now not putting out smoke and the engine does return to idle. This cannot be done with my right foot or not flooring it off idle. Either I have the extra power- and extra smoke AT IDLE- or I don't have the smoke at idle- AND NO extra power. By remote turning the alda I can have both. I'm asking how this can be done- and what your ideas to accomplish this is. DeliveryValve is on target with what I'm asking. I'm also thinking of this idea- that a cable is attached to the alda and the linkage. It's at "no smoke" setting, held there by a spring. When I accelerate, the linkage moves- as it moves, and the more travel in the movement would pull on the alda's adjustment and cause it to give more fuel- "more power" setting. As the linkage moves back- indicating I raise my right foot- the spring pulls the alda back to the "no smoke" setting.

I think it is a great idea! you can modify a speedo cable to do the job. THe lever with a push pull would work too but over a narrow range < 1/2 turn.

Remove the ALDA and use a linkage to push down on the plunger sticking up from the pump. Push down = less smoke release it = more power...

You could probably rig something off the accelerator linkages so that the plunger gets pushed down when the pedal is 1/2 was down. Another thought is to use a solenoid off the trans kick down switch to push in the plunger.

I can't quite understand what you did to your pump, but did you "play" with the full load screw? If yes, did you turn the idle screw as well?

i don't know if it's the same in your om617, I guess you have an om617, but in the om602 I had to turn the idle speed screw as much as I turned the full load screw and the idle speed remained the same. Though, the car smokes more than I like it too when I have to press the throttle to take of while ascending and I have leaned out the alda to the max.

12V stepper motor
 

Use a 12v stepper motor less than $10 at a surplus electronics store, flip a switch motor turns 1/4 -1 turn depending on motor

Why not you weld a sprocket on the adla adjusting screw and have a rod about 11 in that has teeth in it, then attach a it to a throttle linkage that is going it this direction <------> as and there you go a throttle match ADLA adjustment, by the way will the ADLA get damage because of constant adjustment??? See diagram!!!

Just remove the darn thing, toss on a dust cap, and don't push the pedal more than half until you're building boost.

Why not adjust the ALDA properly and let it do its job or remove it entirely and do its job with your foot?

To bring it to basics:
You want to change the characteristics of boost-over-rod travel.
A certain boost pressure makes the ALDA-pin travel. How much is adjusted by screwing the ALDA against the spring in the IP.
One possibility is to change the ALDA-travel over boost, but this seems complicated.

Other possibility is to (geometrically) change ALDA-pin travel (in the IP) over rod travel.
The ALDA pin of the IP is connected via a lever system that includes a bow shaped curve that defines the characteristic. This lever has a number on it and changing the "bow" of this lever will change the a.m. boost-over-rod travel.
I asked but on low to mid level Bosch people information no different lever exists. I had this part eliminated, it would be possible to fab a customised one.
But as long as I have not completed my final set up I will not touch it.
Also this is a trial and error game, but possible.
I admit this is a professional solution.

Tom

Why bother with the ALDA at all? We know removing it has great results and its designed only to help meet smoke emissions limits during low boost.