Well I have to say the turbo is great. I know that with the EGT's at close to 1100*F and around 10psi of boost I am making at least 100hp at the crank. STT was making 100hp and 186nm with 8psi. I will be towing with my car so will be keeping my 3.69 diff and going with a 5 speed.

Right now it looks like a t5 would work or the 265 BMW tranny, but thats for later. Right now I'm working on an intercooler to help bring down the EGT's, a Volvo 240 radiator and Sierra Cosworth 2wd intercooler. I'll try and get a 0-60 time later this week, but I can tell you it was worth every cent I put into it. I just drove over 3200 miles across the country and averaged over 30mpg and about 65mph, and could even pass people easily at 70 going up hill.

Any idea what your exhaust manifold pressure, and intake manifold air temps are at various boost levels?

I get the impression that you are having engine cooling problems. I have an aluminum core radiator, a custom 160* thermostat, an aluminum fan and clutch from a 617 turbo, and I have found that the AC condenser fins are so dense that it is causing excessive air restriction to the radiator.

Do your EGTs ramp up to 1100* fast? (not in proportion to engine speed) or dose it clime with the rpms (power increases, then temp increases). I have done a lot of tuning a MW pump and governor and I have a good feel for what the adjustments do for me on MY pump, I am curious what you have adjusted or more importantly what you have not adjusted to increase your fuel delivery after adding the turbo.

I have my NA-616 MW set to:

Full load limiter removed
Torque control at 2 turns IN
Main Spring (High Idle) at aprox 3 turns IN
Low idle turned IN aprox ½ turn
ADA removed and a manual set screw for adjustment installed for fine tuning
Lift pump fuel pressure is at 14 Lbs under power and 17-18 at idle
The throttle stop is turned IN all the way (DO NOT DO THIS AS DAMAGE CAN ACCURE)
Timing is advanced as far as I dare ( not sure where it is, but just below nailing point when the throttle is snapped).

I have also balanced the cylinder power (“tuning delivery valve”) and shimmed up # 1 element .005 to retard it a touch, (It always has been a nailer, .005 up did the trick and slowed the EGT clime speed and rate quite a bit).

It starts good. Driving in town I stay under 600*. I normally drive 70-75 MPH on the highway with the AC on and on flat ground my EGT is 800*, slight incline it will get to 900* and a long hill I will see 1000* and a decrease in speed to 70 MPH. I am getting a good 30MPG average, and only a trace of smoke if I lug it starting off or really put my foot into it and wind it up. Engine coolant temp is at 170-175* indicated on highway with AC on.



It needs more air at high RPM and I have a T3/T4 turbo available to me. Not sure what the trim is. Do you think the T4 compressor is too big? How substantial is your turbo lag? How dose my settings compare to what you have found to work on yours?

Looking forward to the 0-60 time.

That needs to be put back where it was set. The stop does not increase performance in any way, its function is to limit travel and prevent internal linkage binding.

Yes, by far. A T3 with a 45 or 50 trim compressor will be much more than your engine can use.

FYI, that font is very annoying.

Proof, as in a dyno test is in order before you make claims. Going from 60 some HP to 100 some HP is an improvement of around 40%. Gains like that are possible, but in the spirit of MB's you need to have proof before claiming it to be true. It's a slippery slope you are sliding down otherwise. ;)

FYI, that font is very annoying.[/quote]

Sorry, What font would you prefer?

The stock font that is automatically used.

I compose using word and pasting in. I guess the conversion doesn't work very well. Looks the same on my screen, didn't intend to offend anyone.

I copy into word to spell check, but it does not change the font. Strange.

When I paste into word it says the font is Times New Roman size 12.

Quote:

Originally Posted by MTUpower (Post 1971530) Proof, as in a dyno test is in order before you make claims. Going from 60 some HP to 100 some HP is an improvement of around 40%. Gains like that are possible, but in the spirit of MB's you need to have proof before claiming it to be true. It's a slippery slope you are sliding down otherwise.

True, all seat of the pants dyno testing is questionable, but they can indicate an improvement. The problem is when there is something wrong with the engine before the mod that was addressed or masked by the mod.

In this case I am personally more interested in a reference test that MB has specked out (If I remember correctly it should be 0-60 in about 31 seconds) that I can perform and compare it to where I am now to determine if it is worth it to do the mod. I remember seeing the 100HP speck on a web sight for a shop that installed turbo kits on 240Ds over seas. You would drop off the car for a few days and they would install the kit and tune up the IP.

Even if the 0-60 time is not as exciting as expected that might just mean that there is still IP tuning that needs to be done. I posted my IP settings to get a comparison of approaches to tuning. I will amend my setting list to add Force’s appropriate warning to put the throttle stop back.

I am also concerned about what adding the turbo to an engine lubrication system that was not designed for the increased flow demand. There must be an orifice in the fitting to restrict flow? What is the oil pressure at hot idle? It is obviously working but it is a thought I had.

Yes, look inside a normal 300D turbo feed line and you will see a 2mm restriction orifice.

Is the orifice in the banjo end or the 2-bolt flange end?

The end that bolts onto the turbo. My VNT from the Sprinter has the restriction built into the turbo housing.

Well I just got back from another 3000+ mile trip in the 240Dt that is over 6500 miles in 24 days!

I don't have any dyno sheets and won;t be getting any unless its less then 25 bucks for the pull and I don't think that is going to happen anytime soon.

I know that with the EGT's at close to 1100*F and around 10psi of boost I am making at least 100hp at the crank. STT was making 100hp and 186nm with 8psi.

That is assuming that STT was giving real numbers.

I don't have a restriction orifice in the turbo feed line and my oil pressure only dropped a little ~.5 bar at hot idle from the previous non turbo levels. In fact after driving over 6000 miles on this oil (a little thin at 5w40 synthetic) and driving in 102 degree heat in death valley a few days ago and cruising up 8 to 10 percent grades for 30min at a time. The oil pressure at idle without the idle increased with the knob and the AC on the whole time was ~ 1.6bar a bit higher then the 0.3Bar mercedes says is OK at idle. The coolant was running a bit hot, 115C was the highest and still OK according to MB. The new rad. is for better cooling and so that I can fit an intercooler in.

My egts have been fine in the north with the humid cooler air, but down in the desert I have not been able to put my foot down all the way as the temp would climb to over 1100F. The turbo lag is well just that lag and a lot of it. Right now I don't even use the waste gate and will see ~14psi max with about 4-5psi at cruise with egts in the 650-800 range depending on speed.

Over the last 6000 miles I have seen all sorts of temps, fuel grades, hills, flats, high altitude and low, stuck in traffic and cruising all day (~18hrs) at 75mph and all in all I have been getting ~31mpg average. Not to bad for the old gal.

What all do you think can be accomplished with a 617 to start with?

More than 100hp. :D